Carbon Steels 1095 or 5160

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JTR357

JTR357

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Let me start out by saying,I no experience with these steels.I usually buy & carry SS folders,but wanted a good fixed blade for camping/hunting.I know RAT uses 1095 & 1095's been around forever.Ranger uses 5160(which I've never heard of until recently).I just purchased a Ranger RD6(5160) for use as a hard use camp/hunting knife.I know heat treament is everything as far as knife durability goes,& from what I've heard Jason at Ranger does an excellent HT.
The knife I bought will primarily be used for gathering firewood,light chopping through bone & wood(always carry a hatchet for anything heavier),batoning,stripping bark...etc.
I'm just looking for opinions based on experiences from people who have used both(1095 & 5160),as far as toughness & edge holding go.This question is based on the steel's pros & cons(& yes,I know they both can rust).NOT different knives & designs.
BTW The Ranger has a 1/4" thick blade.
Also I never clean or skin game with a large blade.I usually use a 3" skinner or gut hook for that.
Any usefull input is greatly appreciated:)

:rolleyes:Please don't tell me to just get a Busse.I'd love nothing more,but they are way out of my price range.
 
In principle the 5160 is the tougher steel. It is a spring steel, has less carbon than 1095 and a few more alloying elements that improve essentially hardenability and toughness. Assuming an appropriate heat treat, 5160 is pretty much ideal for a very tough blade with limited abrasion resistance and limited final hardness. 1095 would be ideal as a slicer with high edgestability at fairly high final hardness, which doesn't mean that it can not be quite tough as well, especially with a differential temper (but I don't think the RATs are).
 
I think HoB summed it up from my understanding of the two steels. Justin at Ranger Knives uses both steels from his production line and I have knives from him with both steels. Based on my use, I have not noticed much difference.

I have had a conversation with Justin about the differences between the two and what I gathered is very similar to what HoB said, based on my uderstanding of it.

5160: Tougher than 1095, and resists corrosion better than 1095
1095: Able to get this steel a little harder than 5160 which will add in edge retention.

Being that I have never had any trouble with edge holding from his 5160, I would prefer to have a blade made out of 5160. I like tough knives and a little added corrosion resistance wont hurt anything. I have not noticed 5160 to be any worse than 1095 in my personal experience. Hope that helps.
 
Both can take a fine edge...but 5160 polishes easier - that with the chromium content...better stain resistance (but can still rust - just not as fast).

I wrote this a little while ago...and though it pertains to the way I make knives...the conclusions are the same that are written in countless steel FAQs all o'er the web.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=500049


And I am looking at only particular steels of interest to me (not all steels available, etc.)

But I'm considering them from both a maker's and user's point of view (since I am both myself :D)

(1095 and 5160) included.
 
Some good info about the 5160 steel. I just assumed it was another non-stainless knife steel. Glad to read this info as I am buying a bowie knife from Ray Laconico and he uses the 5160 steel.:thumbup:
 
:thumbup:Much thanks to HoB,Bax Axe,Daniel Koster & Hardheart,That's exactly the info I was looking for.I originally asked Justin @ Ranger to make me one in S7,but the price was over 3x more($89 vs $300?!).He told me the only benefit of having S7,would be if I planned on doing a lot of prying with the knife,which I don't intend to do.This is my first large carbon steel blade & I think I'll be happy with it,as long as I keep it clean & well oiled after each use.
Thanks again for all your helpfull advice guys:)

P.S.Hardheart,I didn't realize there were so many threads concerning this subject.Thanks for pointing them out for me:thumbup:
From what I've read,5160 is the superior chopper & 1095 a better slicer.I think I made the right choice with the 5160 RD6,because it will mostly be a chopper,batoner,hacker..etc.
 
Daniel Koster said:
Both can take a fine edge...but 5160 polishes easier - that with the chromium content...better stain resistance (but can still rust - just not as fast).

I wrote this a little while ago...and though it pertains to the way I make knives...the conclusions are the same that are written in countless steel FAQs all o'er the web.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=500049


And I am looking at only particular steels of interest to me (not all steels available, etc.)

But I'm considering them from both a maker's and user's point of view (since I am both myself :D)

(1095 and 5160) included.
Click to expand...

Mr. Koster,Many thanks for that link.It answered all my questions about 5160,as well as a lot of other steels I was curious about.:thumbup::D
 
This is good information. I've been bouncing back and forth between 1095, O-1 and 5160 for my first self-made knife, and it's good to have as much info as possible.
 
JTR, just for future reference, if you were to call or contact Ranger Knives. The owner's name is Justin, not Jason. Congrats on ordering your first Ranger. It is an awesome knife and you wont regret it.

Later
 
Bax Axe said:
JTR, just for future reference, if you were to call or contact Ranger Knives. The owner's name is Justin, not Jason. Congrats on ordering your first Ranger. It is an awesome knife and you wont regret it.

Later
Click to expand...

Thanks for pointing that out:thumbup:I'm terrible with names:confused:
 
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