How To Care for Ebony Wood Scales

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ErikMB

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I just received an excellent Sheffield Lambsfoot with nice ebony scales. It was a cosmetic reject (though it looks wonderful!)

I am wondering, just to learn about it, is it possible to dye brown ebony wood to make it more black?

And are there putties or fillers that can fill in little missing splinters by the pins, that are strong, and that look like the Ebony wood?

I like this knife, it's working out great, but I figure this could also be a chance to learn something new.

Thanks, folks!
 
Ebony is very dense and oily. Nothing seems to soak into it like other woods do.
 
ErikMB said:
And are there putties or fillers that can fill in little missing splinters by the pins, that are strong, and that look like the Ebony wood?
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I've used super glue around pins that have splinters, it dries clear enough to let the wood grain show through.
 
I like Willie's suggestion. Unless the cavities are really big, medium viscosity CA/super glue looks right after you've blended it in, and it is durable.

As to dying ebony, I never liked the idea. I prefer a few brown streaks because it shows that the wood has not been dyed, as opposed to maybe being a lower-grade specimen dyed to make it look better than it is!

Small brown streaks seem to get a lot darker, and blend in with use. Or more accurately, with the oil and sweat from your mitts!

If you decide to dye it, most folks would reach for Fiebings leather dye. It will make almost anything look uniformly black, at least until you start to use it.
 
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One more thought on long term care of ebony. Many knowledgeable folks think that ebony's natural oils are perfectly balanced, over the entire life of the wood, regardless of the environment. They argue that you should never treat ebony with anything, anything, including baby oil, chicken grease, or anything else in the world, and some include wax in the prohibited category.

I have to respectfully disagree, only in cases of what I can only describe as "dried out" ebony.

I live in what is technically a desert, and I repair musical instruments, so I see a lot of ebony that looks dried out, often to the point of checking. I've never been able to rejuvenate this neglected ebony by any means other than a rub down with some sort of oil or wax. I've done it a lot, on rough looking wood, and the results look much improved and hold up over time.

I have settled on a happy medium of warm wax rubbed into the wood, only when it looks like it needs it. Good wood doesn't need it more than every several years, some pieces of wood seem to be more thirsty.

Again, a lot of folks will say no to anything beyond fingerprints, but if the wood looks troubled and distressed, put a tin of very good wax in the sun for an hour. Rub it for a while, then wipe off the excess. If you don't let it build up a thick, sludgy film, you won't even feel it on there, but it may protect the outer surface of the wood from the effects of salty sweat, low humidity, and passing time!

I love ebony. I consider it the King Of Woods.

For the sake of symmetry, I consider pink ivory to be the Queen of Woods.

I'm still working on the rest of the royal family.
 
Strongly agree! Arizona desert ironwood is the Crown Prince. I' ve got a few knives with ADI handles that have held up for a few decades, and still look spectacular.

The fancy stuff is as colorful and figured as anything I've ever seen. Even the plain grades make a great knife handle. I've bought unfigured blocks on auction site for less than $10 each, and they have great, rich color. Hard, polishes up like glass fairly easily, not too pricey, the vendors I use claim it is harvested from dead trees. it is great!
 
Ebony scales typically require minimal upkeep. Avoid harsh chemicals or submerging. Wipe clean with a soft cloth when needed. Avoid dyeing, abrasives, or fillers on cosmetic-reject knives as they might compromise value or aesthetics. Enjoy its natural beauty and appreciate the learning opportunity!
 
An old trick I learned when repairing minor scratches on a vehicles paintwork was to go into the boot compartment, or somewhere else inconspicuous, and scrape or sand a bit of paint off. Mix this dust with CA glue and then carefully "fill" the scratch. Sand down with 2000 and then a polish.

The splinters around the pins are, more than likely, the cosmetic imperfection.
Sand down a bit to gather some wood dust and then use as in method above to fill cracks or holes, really press it in.
Should be indistinguishable except under very close inspection.

just seen OP date but I have written it now so will post anyway in case it may help someone in a similar predicament.
 
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