Care of A2 Fiddleback Forge Stubby Muk

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Jun 16, 2016
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Hey guys so I just received a Stubby Muk from Fiddleback Forge it is 1/8" A2 steel with a burl handle. I want to make sure that this knife lasts a lifetime so I was hoping you could give me some pointers on keeping this knife if mint condition. I know A2 takes some different care techniques than other steels and I don't know much about it. Also to keep the handle in good condition as well. If you need to know more about the knife or if I left something out that would change the way I take care of it tell me and I'll try to add to the post. Thanks for any help you can give.
 
Hey guys so I just received a Stubby Muk from Fiddleback Forge it is 1/8" A2 steel with a burl handle. I want to make sure that this knife lasts a lifetime so I was hoping you could give me some pointers on keeping this knife if mint condition. I know A2 takes some different care techniques than other steels and I don't know much about it. Also to keep the handle in good condition as well. If you need to know more about the knife or if I left something out that would change the way I take care of it tell me and I'll try to add to the post. Thanks for any help you can give.
Is this knife going to be a user or a show piece?
I know it is likely to be a great looking knife, but it is also a fantastic performer.

If you are going to use it, you might want to keep a few things handy.

With the knife being fairly reactive, you will want some form of corrosion inhibitor while not in use.
- While at the house, wipe the blade down with mineral oil. Not much is needed, just a light coat. It is sold in pharmacies in the laxative section.
- If you acquire a leather sheath, do not store your knife in this, as it will cause corrosion issues. I personally do not even store my knives in their kydex sheaths (if so equipped).
- If you hunt/fish/hike/camp, pack a small tub of carmex lip balm in your gear (the one about the size of a quarter, the coin, in diameter). It seals closed when the lid is screwed down, so you don't have to worry about your gear getting messy in a hot climate. On top of that, it is much easier to carry than mineral oil, it the field. Just tape around the lid/body to ensure that it does not get twisted loose when moving in your pack.
- Carmex and the makeup removal cotton discs, make for a great fire starter. Coat the outside of the disc, separate the two layers and use that to catch ferro rod sparks. I always pack 5 pieces of those discs wrapped in duct tape, in my gear bags. Each one will burn for 30-40 seconds, and catch a spark near instantaneously.
- You can use an Arkansas stone, diamond, Whetstone, or just about anything out there to sharpen your knife. Don't have anything else? Use the bottom of a coffee mug, casserole baking dish, or top of a car window. That being said, I would suggest you pick up a DMT coarse/fine Diafold and learn to use the fine side for regular edge maintenance. Maybe grab two of them and break them both in, and pack one away in your gear bag.

If I think of anything else, I will post again.

Welcome to the fold, it is a slippery slope.
Don't say we didn't warn you.
 
A2 is pretty rust resistant. Just keep it dry. Wipe it down with a rust preventive if you're going to store it. I treat my leather sheathes with SnowSeal (melted in, inside and out) and have had no problems with rusting in the sheath. The burl handle can be waxed if it doesn't have any kind of finish.
 
Like others have said, use it, keep it clean, keep it dry, and it will last a lifetime+
 
Thanks for the replies guys. To answer one of the previous questions, yes I intend to use it, when I get a knife I get if for a purpose. Mostly I intend to use it for fishing. It should stay dry inside my waders, but anytime one is near water there is always a chance that it will get a little wet. Thanks for the suggestions I'm going to get the stuff I need soon.
 
Post # 2 - REALLY good information. Especially about not storing knives in sheaths. Most guys won't believe that until they mess up a nice knife.
 
I know there are lots of other options for wood handle care but I really like Howard Feed n Wax. It brings the amazing colors out of the burl and when it obsorbs into the wood it wont leave any residue behind.6D6DC41A-D6B4-4800-A97B-CB57B0E5A33B.jpeg
 
I know there are lots of other options for wood handle care but I really like Howard Feed n Wax. It brings the amazing colors out of the burl and when it obsorbs into the wood it wont leave any residue behind.View attachment 794484
I have this, and it does have its uses. Unfortunately most knife handles are stabilized, so there is no porosity for the polish/conditioner to affect.

Natural woods, like Desert Ironwood, and some rosewoods, as well as those that have a very high oil content and don't require stabilization would very likely take a polish from this product.

Below, I have brought two pieces up to 2k grit, and put a slight polish on with a no scratch rubbing compound. Afterwards I applied a coat of th feed-n-wax to 1/2 of each piece.

Can you tell me which side had the feed-n-wax on it?
In person, I couldn't tell (if I didn't do it myself).
2017-11-08 22.03.07.jpg 2017-11-08 22.03.28.jpg 2017-11-08 22.04.02.jpg
 
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