Care question for older Case, Schrade, John Primble, and Soligen made knives

[jor fly]

Hey folks,
I inhereted a knife collection from my dad that has many older knives made by the makers in the title plus a slew of German blades including Boker, German Bull, Hen and Rooster, Henkles, and more. I've separated out all the blades that I can identify as celluloid, and as such my question does not apply to them, but the bone and wood handled knives. My question is, what should I apply to these blades to keep them safe for long term? My dad always used a very thin coat if 3in1, I've been using rem oil. Is there something better I can use? Many of these knives are neglected knives my dad restored as best he could. The still have some pitting from the rust they had when he got them, but other than that they are polished and rust free. Really would appreciate any and all advice from veteran collectors

 

[r8shell]

I avoid gun cleaning oils, because some of them can damage brass.

If the blades are rust free, I'd advise Renaissance Wax for long term storage. It's what museums use. It's kinda expensive, but a small jar should last a lifetime. Clean the blades off with alcohol, and then apply a very thin amount. It doesn't hurt the bone and wood, either.

 

[Rich S]

Rem oil is fine for the blades. For the handles/scales I would suggest Renaissance Wax. It is used by museums to prevent rust, tarnish, even on leather. I've used it for years and never had a rust problem even on old (19th C) blades.
Rich

 

[supratentorial]

Question seems to be how to care for carbon steel.

Oil works well but it doesn't last long. I like mineral oil since it is non toxic. For long term storage wax lasts much longer. There are commercial waxes like RenWax. You can even use neutral shoe polish are another carnauba wax.

All they do is provide a physical barrier to reduce oxidation.

You can make rusty knives shiny again but "restore" is sort of a misnomer. A common euphemism is "cleaned". "Resurfaced" is more accurate. For most knives, I'd just wipe the blades down the blades and springs with a rag damp with mineral oil until it no longer dirties the rag. That is how to best preserve a knife. I would only resurface as a very last resort.

 

[Ratbert]

I use Rem oil on the pivot joint and mineral oil on the blades and back springs while being stored. I believe that any very light coat of oil will protect those carbon blades.

You may have already gotten advice from a veteran collector without realizing it. Your dad brought these blades back to life and then used 3in1 to further protect them. If they haven't degraded further during the time he had them, then there's your answer!

 

[jor fly]

I use Rem oil on the pivot joint and mineral oil on the blades and back springs while being stored. I believe that any very light coat of oil will protect those carbon blades.

You may have already gotten advice from a veteran collector without realizing it. Your dad brought these blades back to life and then used 3in1 to further protect them. If they haven't degraded further during the time he had them, then there's your answer!

the only degradation has come in the form of the knives with celluloid handles. The other knives, (yes I consider my dad a veteran collector, but unfortunately he has passed on to heaven and is not here for me to question) are all in good shape, dad would buy an older knife, an old case hawkbill for example, clean all the rust off, minus pitting, and the polish with a metal polishing paste, then reprofile the edge slightly to repair any damage, and them oil very lightly. My concern was with some of the older knives with pitting, preventing further pitting, and making sure I don't remove the blade etching from some if the collectors knives, like some German eye, Boker, and a few case knives. Sounds like mineral oil may be a good bet, or wax.

 

[jor fly]

I have no desire to completely refinish to remove the pitting as I consider it added character, and it reminds me if dads work

 

[jor fly]

Question seems to be how to care for carbon steel.

Oil works well but it doesn't last long. I like mineral oil since it is non toxic. For long term storage wax lasts much longer. There are commercial waxes like RenWax. You can even use neutral shoe polish are another carnauba wax.

All they do is provide a physical barrier to reduce oxidation.

You can make rusty knives shiny again but "restore" is sort of a misnomer. A common euphemism is "cleaned". "Resurfaced" is more accurate. For most knives, I'd just wipe the blades down the blades and springs with a rag damp with mineral oil until it no longer dirties the rag. That is how to best preserve a knife. I would only resurface as a very last resort.

Ren wax with hurt blade etching on collectors blades

 

[jor fly]

I avoid gun cleaning oils, because some of them can damage brass.

If the blades are rust free, I'd advise Renaissance Wax for long term storage. It's what museums use. It's kinda expensive, but a small jar should last a lifetime. Clean the blades off with alcohol, and then apply a very thin amount. It doesn't hurt the bone and wood, either.

Will it hurt blades with etching like Boker tree brand or John primble?

 

[jor fly]

I avoid gun cleaning oils, because some of them can damage brass.

If the blades are rust free, I'd advise Renaissance Wax for long term storage. It's what museums use. It's kinda expensive, but a small jar should last a lifetime. Clean the blades off with alcohol, and then apply a very thin amount. It doesn't hurt the bone and wood, either.

Curious about the brass, I've used rem oil on blades only and never had the brass parts of the handle tarnish, maybe if it gets on those parts propper?

 

[jor fly]

r8shell, one last question, will the alcohol do any damage to etching? and, should I use descicator packs?

 

[r8shell]

Will it hurt blades with etching like Boker tree brand or John primble?

Curious about the brass, I've used rem oil on blades only and never had the brass parts of the handle tarnish, maybe if it gets on those parts propper?

r8shell, one last question, will the alcohol do any damage to etching? and, should I use descicator packs?

I'm not an expert, and I hope one will chime in soon to correct me if I'm wrong:

I don't think RenWax is abrasive, at least not as abrasive as metal polishes. I just coat a thin layer on the blade and then give it a wipe when it's dry. Just to be sure, maybe mineral oil would be better for the etched blades.

I read somewhere (like I said, I'm no expert) that some gun cleaning products are designed to remove brass deposits from gun barrels, so they wouldn't be good to have in the joint or sitting on the brass liners, causing pitting, I suppose.

If there's ink in the blade etchings, I guess alcohol might effect that. I would think the 3in1 oil would as well, so I imagine if they're still intact you should be OK. I'm not sure, though.

 

[jor fly]

yes, etchings are still in tact, some are laser etched, some are older like some buck creek knives with the copperhead on the blade

I like the ren wax idea, gonna try that on the regular blades. As for the brass, I never put rem oil on the brass components, plus copper is what you are thinking if with rem oil, and that's only the bore cleaner formula. Regular rem oil, I don't think will hurt brass unless you drench it in it

 

[Ratbert]

Rem oil is a lubricant, rather than a solvent, (think Hoppe's) so it should not affect the brass.

The etchings should not be harmed by wiping on any type of oil. Wax I don't know, as I don't use it, so have no experience there. Metal polishes like Flitz or Simichrome will most definitely harm the etching. Try to think in terms of lubricant vs oxidation prevention vs abrasive (cleaning).

I do use desiccant packs.

Sorry that your Dad isn't with you anymore, but it's good that you appreciate his collection and want to continue caring for it. If you can post any pictures, I would like to see some of his knives.

 

[jor fly]

just tell me how to post pics