- Joined
- Jan 1, 2013
- Messages
- 462
Hi all,
So, I'm typically fixated on modern folders (especially Spyderco), but I have just traded for a GEC Northfield trapper. I poked around and did some research and I see on GEC's website it describes the blade and the "back spring" as 1095. I have a few carbon and nonstainless steel knives and have never had a problem with them, but the part about the 1095 "back spring" made me curious.
I've got a growing collection of (mostly modern) slip-joints now, but I'm not 100% sure on the anatomy. I'm assuming that the GEC literature is referring to the spring that provides the slip-joint tension and is involved in opening/closing the blade. So, should I try and apply oil or Tuf-Glide to this area somehow -- presumably by placing a couple drops in between the handle scales? I'm familiar with oiling my blade and pivot, but wasn't sure if I need to worry about treating this as well. I'm also planning on purchasing a Case Swayback Jack soon, so I figured it'd be prudent to ask.
Thanks!
So, I'm typically fixated on modern folders (especially Spyderco), but I have just traded for a GEC Northfield trapper. I poked around and did some research and I see on GEC's website it describes the blade and the "back spring" as 1095. I have a few carbon and nonstainless steel knives and have never had a problem with them, but the part about the 1095 "back spring" made me curious.
I've got a growing collection of (mostly modern) slip-joints now, but I'm not 100% sure on the anatomy. I'm assuming that the GEC literature is referring to the spring that provides the slip-joint tension and is involved in opening/closing the blade. So, should I try and apply oil or Tuf-Glide to this area somehow -- presumably by placing a couple drops in between the handle scales? I'm familiar with oiling my blade and pivot, but wasn't sure if I need to worry about treating this as well. I'm also planning on purchasing a Case Swayback Jack soon, so I figured it'd be prudent to ask.
Thanks!