Carving blade advice

T

theBUSHguy

Joined
Sep 7, 2014
Messages
4
Hi everyone,
I'm drawing up a couple of ideas for a small, fixed blade carving knife an I was wondering a couple of things regarding the design of the blade:
Do you think I should go for a "straight" edge, with a pronounced drop point (sort of like a utility knife, to give you the idea) or a curved belly going up to about half the height of the blade? I see people doing both out there, I was thinking maybe just 3-4 cm long btw.
Other question: it would be stupid to grind the bevel on only one side of the blade right? I'm right handed, grinding only on the right side, kind of like a kiridashi blade, made sense. I'll probably stick with the good old two sided blade anyway.
Last thing, I'm thinking about a scandi grind but a chisel grind makes sense as well.
If some of you has experience with carving I'd appreciate his opinions.
Thx
 
I'm not totally sure about all those questions lol! But I do know is that I would rather use a straight edge for carving. Personal preference most def.. I've been a butcher for some years, slanging the blades in all different types of directions and ways... And actually started to learn how to whittle recently.. I just couldn't see using a blade with a belly for carving. But as I said, that's just me, brother. I'm wicked interested in seeing this steel when you're done with it
 
For those unsure of his question, I believe he is making a woodcarving knife.

Predominantly straight edge with a little rise over the last fourth of the blade. Maybe 1/8" of rise. Blade length about 1.5" to 2.o" total length.
Double grind unless you are specifically making a Japanese knife. Since carving knives are used on both push and pull strokes, the single bevel may not work well.
Full Flat Grind - spine to edge bevel. Anything that creates a wedge fights against you in carving. Forget scandi or chisel grinds unless you are doing chip carving.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
For those unsure of his question, I believe he is making a woodcarving knife.

Predominantly straight edge with a little rise over the last fourth of the blade. Maybe 1/8" of rise. Blade length about 1.5" to 2.o" total length.
Double grind unless you are specifically making a Japanese knife. Since carving knives are used on both push and pull strokes, the single bevel may not work well.
Full Flat Grind - spine to edge bevel. Anything that creates a wedge fights against you in carving. Forget scandi or chisel grinds unless you are doing chip carving.
Click to expand...
This is so interesting and informative. Good thread created, bush dude! Cheers, baby!
 
I have a number of different carving knives. Most with straight edges, a few curved. If I could only own one it would be this 1.25" blade. Long enough that I am not "searching" for my cutting surface like I do on a 0.75" blade I have. But it is also small enough that I can carve into tighter spaces and detail that I can't get with a bigger blade. I carve totems for my native american flutes that are a couple inches long. This shorter blade doesn't "hang off" the far side of the carving so I don't get my fingers as often either :).
IMG_2563.jpg


Some of this depends on what you are carving and doing. If you are starting with a block and carving everything off, a bit longer bigger blade will let you hog the wood off quicker. If you are roughing out your shape with a scroll saw or bandsaw and then carving a smaller blade is nice.

Really, like all knives you need many many many to be truly set up and happy :) There are so many possibilities. I often swing by Caribou knives to get ideas of what else I need....I mean want. https://www.caribouknives.com/category/wood-carving/
 
Alright, thanks for the advice. Now I got a pretty good idea of what I'm doing, might post a phew pics on this thread when I'm done.
That page of caribou knives is full of interesting ideas, too.
First time I ever post anything on this forum by the way, very helpful! Hope I'll be able to exchange the favour
 
I used to do some spoon carving, and in those circles, a Mora (106/120) is considered a very good benchmark in terms of performance and design. Concerning the grind, my preference is a flat grind with no secondary bevel, as it gives very good control (but it is fairly difficult to sharpen.

Mark
 
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