Case Black G10 Medium Stockman Possible Defect?

[I.N.F.K]

I literally just received this knife as a gift no more then 1 hour ago and have noticed that a portion of the sheepfoots blade is visible when the spey blade is out. Is this normal, but i'm quite sure that it isn't? I'll attach a picture below showing the portion protruding from the blade. I'm going to send it in to warranty services anyway because the spey blade rubs against the sheepsfoot when closing.

 

[HuntBomb]

Looks normal to me.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

That's very common on many stockman patterns, from many makers over many, many years. Seems to be somewhat inherent to the design of the pattern. I've heard, though I've no idea whether it's true, this 'high' placement of the sheepsfoot blade is purposely done to allow easy pinching of the blade with gloved hands.

Most high sheepsfoot blades can be lowered pretty easily, by filing down the kick on the blade, so it'll sit a little lower when closed. The 'kick' is the projection on the lower portion of the tang, which ordinarily rests against the inside of the backspring when closed. Often, very little metal taken off the kick can make a significant difference in the height. Just have to watch out that the nail nick won't be obscured behind adjacent blades, after the sheepsfoot is lowered, and also that the blade edge won't be so low as to collide with the inside of the backspring. There's usually LOTS of free space under the sheepsfoot, so this usually won't be an issue anyway.


David

 

[jc57]

If that's an '18 pattern then yeah, the sheepfoot blade sits way proud on those. My two look just like that. Just file the kick down a little.

 

[I.N.F.K]

That's very common on many stockman patterns, from many makers over many, many years. Seems to be somewhat inherent to the design of the pattern. I've heard, though I've no idea whether it's true, this 'high' placement of the sheepsfoot blade is purposely done to allow easy pinching of the blade with gloved hands.

Most high sheepsfoot blades can be lowered pretty easily, by filing down the kick on the blade, so it'll sit a little lower when closed. The 'kick' is the projection on the lower portion of the tang, which ordinarily rests against the inside of the backspring when closed. Often, very little metal taken off the kick can make a significant difference in the height. Just have to watch out that the nail nick won't be obscured behind adjacent blades, after the sheepsfoot is lowered, and also that the blade edge won't be so low as to collide with the inside of the backspring. There's usually LOTS of free space under the sheepsfoot, so this usually won't be an issue anyway.


David

I guess leaving the sheepsfoot high does make sense to allow easy access for gloved hands, but I still may try my hand at lowering it. Any recommendation on how to prevent the spey blade from contacting with the sheepsfoot?

 

[jc57]

Blade scrape? Every Case knife 3-bladed 2-spring knife I own scrapes on all three blades. If you figure out a way to stop that clue me in too. The 1 spring per blade knives don't have that problem.

 

[I.N.F.K]

Blade scrape? Every Case knife 3-bladed 2-spring knife I own scrapes on all three blades. If you figure out a way to stop that clue me in too. The 1 spring per blade knives don't have that problem.

Well then, I guess got a perfectly normal Case knife. They have been really letting me down lately, may have to go German

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Blade scrape? Every Case knife 3-bladed 2-spring knife I own scrapes on all three blades. If you figure out a way to stop that clue me in too. The 1 spring per blade knives don't have that problem.

The 3-spring Case '47 pattern sometimes does. I have one in G10 (orange), as a matter of fact. In spite of the 3 springs, the blades are still very close together, and the tiny bit of lateral deflection from pressing a nail into a nick and opening can usually make one blade rub against the adjacent one. Mine has the rub marks to show for it.

The 'fix' for that would be to guarantee more space between blades, with spacers under the bolsters or thicker springs. But that always makes for a thicker-bodied knife, which won't be as pocket-friendly.

All that said, I've never worried about the rub marks anyway. Knife still works just fine.


David

 

[Bigfattyt]

The proud sheepsfoot makes it pinchable.

I have a case stockman with that feature, but was used to it, because my Old Timer stockman had that same feature 22 or so years ago.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I guess leaving the sheepsfoot high does make sense to allow easy access for gloved hands, but I still may try my hand at lowering it. Any recommendation on how to prevent the spey blade from contacting with the sheepsfoot?

That very much depends on how much space there is to work with. Not having a similar knife as yours to look at & compare, it's hard for me to guess what it would take. With some 'crinked' sheepsfoot blades in some stockman knives, there may be some wiggle-room to bend the 'crink' just enough to give you extra room. BUT, if considering doing that, it may be worth sending it back to Case anyway, and let them do it. They likely won't warranty-fix a broken blade, if the user breaks it trying to bend the blade.


David

 

[I.N.F.K]

That very much depends on how much space there is to work with. Not having a similar knife as yours to look at & compare, it's hard for me to guess what it would take. With some 'crinked' sheepsfoot blades in some stockman knives, there may be some wiggle-room to bend the 'crink' just enough to give you extra room. BUT, if considering doing that, it may be worth sending it back to Case anyway, and let them do it. They likely won't warranty-fix a broken blade, if the user breaks it trying to bend the blade.


David

Zero room

 

[mrjefe2u]

My med stckmn w/clip,sheepsfoot and punch is barely concealed by the awl.

I believe that I would call WR Case and ask.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Zero room

If the rub is something you're not willing to live with, in this case, it may be worth sending it back. In combination with the raised sheepsfoot blade issue, a warranty fix or replacement may be a better option, since this knife is still new. Too many things in this knife to be dissatisfied with (for you), so it's not likely worth tinkering with it, I'd think.


David

 

[I.N.F.K]

If the rub is something you're not willing to live with, in this case, it may be worth sending it back. In combination with the raised sheepsfoot blade issue, a warranty fix or replacement may be a better option, since this knife is still new. Too many things in this knife to be dissatisfied with (for you), so it's not likely worth tinkering with it, I'd think.


David

I'd rather tinker with it, I can live with either one or the other, and by fixing the sheepsfoot it may fix the rubbing issue, unlikely though. Besides at a wait time of six to eight weeks on reapair figuring it out myself is more appealing.

 

[I.N.F.K]

Double Post

 

[jc57]

Well if it makes you feel any better, I also just got a new Case 6318 Medium Stockman and like I said, it has the same issues. Compared to my 63032 variety the sheepsfoot blade *looks* to be sitting higher, but when I put them on the table side by side they are the same height. The difference is the shape of the frame and the difference in the main clip. The '18 pattern has a California clip so the profile doesn't hide the sheepfoot as much.

I've just been filing the kick down on the sheepsfoot blade on mine a bit and giving the blades their initial sharpening. It may need a little more work but it's a bit better. I also found that I had a little room to slightly increase the crink of the sheepfoot a bit by pressing sideways against it with my thumb. But it's still going to rub a bit, they just do, unless you are very careful to use the minimal sideways pressure on the nail nick when opening the blades.

For a user I could care less about a little blade rub, the knife will earn it's share of stainless patina (fine scratch marks) from use, plus if I really want to I can polish them out with a bit of effort. Just takes a few different grades of polishing compounds and some metal polish.

 

[jakemex]

A one blade Case knife, solves the problem sometimes. But then again the one blade sometimes rubs the liners... O well, maybe Case knives aren't noted for quality workmanship in the lower level price wise. Bose collaborations and the high end examples will get you that quality user knife you expect. Same old story.

 

[I.N.F.K]

I guess the extra money one pays for knife goes into the fit and finish, rather annoying.

 

[jc57]

My $88 brand new GEC Tidioute Maverick 3-blade stockman-style knife has blade rub too. It's rather common with those patterns no matter who makes them.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

My $88 brand new GEC Tidioute Maverick 3-blade stockman-style knife has blade rub too. It's rather common with those patterns no matter who makes them.

It's been common among virtually all makers, over the span of decades at least. I think I first noticed it on a Schrade 108OT that I'd bought back in the late '70s. That may've been my very first stockman, so I was 'indoctrinated' to it early on, and have regularly seen it on many more since then (the stockman pattern is my favorite). That's why I haven't worried about it. To me, it seems almost integral to the design and character of a stockman knife, excepting high-dollar customs crafted to hyper-tight tolerances anyway.


David