Case Brothers Gunstock pattern

ARtsig1

ARtsig1

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Jul 20, 2000
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I was in my closet looking for a clip and came across this one. I had forgotten about it being up there. It has chesnut handles with ss blades. It came in a little tin and has a suede type pouch for carry. I've slipped it in the pouch and in my pocket as I think I'll carry it for a while. I noticed that both blades were sharp from the factory but were rough. A few strokes on the Spyderco 204 did wonders for the edge in smoothing it out and now it snaps the hairs off!
 
I bought a Case cranberry handled wharncliff copperlock and a dark blue handled wharncliff mini copperlock a few weeks ago.
They were not sharp out of the box at all, and it took a LONG time on the sharpmakes to get a nice edge on them.
But I've been carrying them ever since I got them sharp.
I never cared for wharncliff patterns at all till I got these, but I got hooked pretty good on these two....... enough that I'm probably gonna buy a few more of the mini copperheads
 
I am the same way about the Wharny pattern but I do like the Case version.
 
Hey guys,

I notice 2 mentions of the Sharpmaker on this thread.

I have a couple Case slipjoints I've bought new in the last year, and for the
most part, they seem fairly sharp from the factory. But I think they could
be improved...but I'm hesitant to touch them.

I have a Sharpmaker, with which I've had limited success. I previously bought (and still have) a Gatco sharpener, with which I successfully sharpened dozens of knives to arm hair shaving-sharp. The Gatco won't work with the smaller blades on my Case slipjoints, though.

In using the Sharpmaker on other blades, it seems like I end up dulling the blades. Can either of you who mentioned using it pass along your technique? It doesn't sound like you've gone all the way to getting a burr on one side, then rolling it over, then going to the smoother stones, etc. That would take a *lot* more than "...a couple minutes...", in my experience.

Do you start with the gray rods, then go to the white ones? Or, just start with the white ones? How do you tell how much/when, etc.?

Any advice is greatly appreciated! :)
 
EDB;

Thanks for asking this question...I see the Sharpmaker mentioned A LOT out here and on Knife Forums. I had one once and got real frustrated using it - it seemed to have too steep of an angle to put on a really sharp edege.

I also had the Lansky or Gatco type - you are right the clamp thing won't work on the average smaller slipjoint blade...something that they don't mention in their advertising and promotion of those products.

MAybe someone will enlighten us...
 
I have a sharpmaker with a set of diamond rods as well.
For the two knives I was referring to, it was not just a couple of minutes.......it was in excess of 200 strokes on one side to raise a burr.
Took about half as many to raise a burr on the other side, then just enough strokes to take the burr off the second side, not that many more.
after that I used 40-50 strokes per side on the gray stones, followed by the same on the white stones.
I only used the 30 degree holes and the flats of the stones.
It takes a lot of patience (at least for me) to raise a burr....it really did seem hopeless until one finally started to raise. But once it started, it built across the entire edge pretty quickly.

Big caveat.....I did get quite a few fine scratches on the blades, and I really have no idea of how it happened.
Maybe it's just related to the diamond stones.....or maybe I am extremely clumsy.
I don't *think* I hit the sides against the stones, though.

I'll find out with the next knife I sharpen....I'll try to raise a burr with just the gray stones.
Obviously, (at least for me), that will require a larger dose of patience.

I have to say, though, as long as you are persistent and the blade steel is hard enough to take an edge, anyone can get a shaving sharp edge on the sharpmaker.

I'm afraid to try a custom folder, though.......going to wait to see if I get scratches or not if I bypass the diamond stones before I consider trying one.
 
Jerrinfla,

Thanks for the information!

Do you think that if one were to *not* get or use the diamond rods, the fastest way to raise a burr would be to use the edges of the gray rods - not the flats?
 
Knifeaholic,

You mention the Sharpmaker and the Gatco/Lansky in the past tense. If you don't use either of those now, what do you use? Freehand? Or a different system?

I seem to remember hearing good things about Edge Pro (?), but I was under the impression that it ain't cheap...
 
EDB;

I use freehand and several 6" hones:

Norton coarse/fine India (GREAT stone)

Hard Arkansas Stone

DMT 600 grit (red, fine)
 
I tried sharpening another Case SS knife today without using the diamond rods, just the gray flats.
It raised a burr around 200 strokes later, just like the diamond rods.......but I got none of the scratches on the blade at all.
(I'm afraid to use the points - I dulled the point of a chive really bad using them....way too easy for me to drag the tip of the knife off the points)

So I guess I didn't need the diamond rods at all....I just needed to learn more patience.
I have to say, though.....the cideo that came with it didn't help much towards developing patience. I think it said something like 10 strokes per side on points and flats going from the gray stones to the white stones.
If I did not read all the great threads here about raising a burr, I would have never gotten a sharp edge ont he sharpmaker.
 
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