Case Canoe

filedog

filedog

Joined
Sep 3, 2002
Messages
518
I purchased a few Rough Rider knives, found I really like the Canoe pattern. The RR canoe is a bit of a dog (the others are great) so it's going back.

I want a replacement - looking at Case's offerings the only current CV Case is amber bone? It's not my favorite.

So, I'm looking at some vintage ones. Is there a time period that is better than current but not too expensive? I'd like to spend around $50 Also, is blade

rub more common on this pattern? One Case I am looking at has this, not a deal-breaker for me.
 
filedog said:
I hope to get a GEC at some point, just don't like the way they did that pattern.
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I tend to agree, far too much bolster on that pattern for my liking.

Böker do a Canoe in carbon that isn't dear, but like most single spring Canoes, the blades can jam on each other when closing, so some care is needed when closing them.

Queen's Cozy Glen Canoes looked handsome, but they're not so easy to find these days.
 
willgoy said:
I tend to agree, far too much bolster on that pattern for my liking.

Böker do a Canoe in carbon that isn't dear, but like most single spring Canoes, the blades can jam on each other when closing, so some care is needed when closing them.

Queen's Cozy Glen Canoes looked handsome, but they're not so easy to find these days.
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Hmm, that's interesting. My rough rider has 2 springs, so that's unusual?

Not sure I want a single spring one, if they tend to jam. Is the queen city also a single spring?
 
I think all Queen Canoes are single spring, the carbon steel ones have thinner blades than the D2 models which are very thick and add to the weight.

I used to own a D2 Canoe and this too could 'jam' not from weak snap but you had to close the blades with some care. When they did jam it was easy enough to open and re-close them though so I don't want you to think they became troublesome or inoperable!

I believe CASE Canoes are all two spring now? I had an RR Canoe in Gunstock Bone, very nicely finished, great snap I just can't warm to the pattern really.
 
What you're looking for is pretty hard to find in your price range. Best bet is to follow the large auction site until you find a deal you can live with.
I'm curious about your preference for 1095 over D2.
 
deskil said:
What you're looking for is pretty hard to find in your price range. Best bet is to follow the large auction site until you find a deal you can live with.
I'm curious about your preference for 1095 over D2.
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I'd like to get more information before I start bidding : ) I like 1095, easy to sharpen, plenty of edge retention for a pocket knife.
Heard D2 is pretty hard to sharpen.
 
If your own to the other side of the pond, Boker model 200, they're an older carbon steel version that I was able to pick up two of 'em awhile back for $10 a piece.

I gave 'em away here on the forum last year, I have a 80s Case that I like, I don't carry out much but I wanted to keep one website of the pattern.

The thing I like about them is the way the bolsters covers the kick when the blade is closed, most modern production patterns don't take the time to see this part is covered. The kicks on the bigger knife when exposed like that when the blade is closed, will at the very least wear you pocket, in the worst case scenario scratch your $400 phone.

Almost every canoe pattern I've ever seen the end of the tang had been covered, if that's a concern give them a shot, Case has always had a large variety of Canoes.
 
filedog said:
I'd like to get more information before I start bidding : )
Heard D2 is pretty hard to sharpen.
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I think you'll find that the older Case canoes in CV (the ones in mint or near mint condition) are above your price limit, but if you're not in a hurry, eventually you'll find your acorn. Research what the knives you're interested in have been sold for in the past, on that auction site, to get an idea of what to bid.

D2 is no more difficult to sharpen than any other steel, if you use diamonds. You should be able to find a lightly used Queen canoe in your price range. It's my favorite canoe (and i have several to choose from).
 
deskil said:
I think you'll find that the older Case canoes in CV (the ones in mint or near mint condition) are above your price limit, but if you're not in a hurry, eventually you'll find your acorn. Research what the knives you're interested in have been sold for in the past, on that auction site, to get an idea of what to bid.

D2 is no more difficult to sharpen than any other steel, if you use diamonds. You should be able to find a lightly used Queen canoe in your price range. It's my favorite canoe (and i have several to choose from).
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I like the looks of the Queen D2 canoe in amber bone.......is it a single spring? Do you find the blades thick on yours? Do they tend to "jam" when closed?
 
It is a single spring, but is no thinner than my Cases with double springs. The blades are thin and slicey (the pen, in particular). My blades don't rub or jam at all.
 
deskil said:
It is a single spring, but is no thinner than my Cases with double springs. The blades are thin and slicey (the pen, in particular). My blades don't rub or jam at all.
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I also have a Queen canoe. Single spring. The blades on mine have never jammed. I carried it and used it a fair bit. I am quite fond of that knife.
 
Just got the Böker out of the drawer. Can't examine the Queen as it got traded for a Heritage Woodsman....

When I used the word 'jam' it was the best I could come up with... But when the minor blade on these was opened the tip of the Master drifted over a fraction and the tang of the minor caught on it when trying to close. You just have to manipulate the blade a bit to get it free, the snap on both knives was very good. The carbon on the Böker is very keen indeed, razor style actually. This closing problem happens about 50% of the time. It may just be the ones i had or it could be the Copperhead bolster effecting it in some way I don't understand? Never encountered this on other single-spring patterns though.

Thanks, Will
 
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