Case CV or SS

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Nov 24, 2008
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108
New here and looking at some Case or Buck (US). Anyway which do you prefer CV or SS steel in Case. Also can I sharpen the Bucks-difficult? Are the CV's brighter than SS. Local store here has a large stockman in amber bone CV for $60.-- and all their selection are AB in CV. Good place to buy? Thank-you.
 
Welcome 6speed :)
I feel that Buck's 420, Case's SS & CV are roughly comparable in blade toughness. In other words about the same to sharpen (quite easy) Of the 3 I prefer the CV.
If you live & work near an ocean you might have to pay more attention CV because it will rust quicker.
As to the $60.00 for a large stockman... you are supporting a U.S. company & a local business so heck yes! :D

Enjoy!!
 
I have blades in all three alloys. All of them bought within the last year.

The CV is the easiest to sharpen. It holds its edge longer than Case Tru-Sharp stainless.

The Buck holds its edge the longest. And it is still easy to sharpen.

Case Tru-Sharp has the most options as to what design to buy. And its still easy to sharpen to a very sharp edge and holds it plenty well for a daily carry.

Nice thing about a local store is you get to see which one feels best in your hand.
 
My vote would go to the CV, easy to sharpen and it will take a razor edge very easily.
 
Welcome! I always try to buy carbon steel if possible, it has more character, takes a keener edge, and because I am still stuck in the past:). However, Buck's 420HC is very good stainless. I would pick the knife you are most drawn to, all of those steels will perform fine for everyday use.

$60 isn't that bad a price since you get to examine it yourself, and as another member said, you will supporting a local business and US knife manufacturer.

Stainless isn't any brighter than carbon at first, but after use the carbon steel will develop a patina, it protects the blade from corrosion and gives the blades character while also telling a story of the things you cut and bringing back memories. All of my carbon knives have a very nice grey patina from use, but I have seen some very well used ones (or man made patina's) that were almost black. A patina can also hide scratches, a stainless blade won't discolor but will show scratches more easily.
 
Thanks guys, I just ordered three mini-tappers (amber bone) in SS for my brothers birthdays. None were available here in SS and only one in CV. They live by the ocean in a very humid climate. I just hope they use the knives. I threw in a large stockman CV (amber bone) for myself. A lot of knife but more of that bone and steel to look at! BTW the online retailer has some good deals and I'm not sure that I should mention the name so I'll refrain.
 
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I like both the carbon, and the stainless, but I probably like the stainless a little better for every day pocket carry. I don't worry about neglecting it as much, if I forget to wipe it down after a hot sweaty day.
 
Hello guys JUST received my LARGE stockman CV and my brothers mini-trappers. I'm impressed with the quality of these knives. There aren't any places on the knives that could snag or snarl a pocket. Everything is smooth and even-the fit between the bolsters and bone-the spacing of the blades-spring tension is great-edges are sharp but can be made more symmetrical but that's not a problem with CV and the SS of the minis.

Just some observations the three minis are a great size for pocket carry and I'm almost envious. I also like the half stop on the trappers-great gentleman's knife. I looked at the color and jigging and sent the appropriate knife to certain brothers. Color and jigging does vary.

The large stockman gives you quite a bit to look at but I like the size. It's so smooth that it won't hang like some of my knives that I took the clips off. It's not to big to carry and will probably be the first knife in a long while that I'll be able to sharpen. WHAT'S not to like about these knives.

Thanks for the help in my selections.
 
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I just touched up my Case Trapper in Tru-Sharp today, and I have to admit I was surprised at how toothy the edge can be. One thing I have noticed is that the CV seems to lose its bite over time, even if it's not used, while the Tru-Sharp retains it. I think this may be attributed to oxidation on the edge itself. Something else to think about if you live in a salty or humid environment..
 
For a summary of blade steels and an overall education in what is what I suggest reading thru this:http://www.nordische-messer.de/tipps_infos/knifeart_stahl.html
I realize that "preference" is from using different types of steel in different situations but to "actually know why" one type does what another doesn't is for the most part summed up at this link. Tho it's not a in depth analysis of any one particular steel and not all the variants are included, It should be quite helpful.
Greg
 
I've found Case Tru-Sharp to be very good for me. I do prefer it to the few Bucks I have, mostly because of the profile. But for some reason, with my limited experiences, Tru-Sharp just feels easier to maintain.

Case CV, however, seems very easy to sharpen. Not terribly hard as blade steel goes, but grinds easily without excessive burring. Has that carbon steel mojo.
 
I like both, the cv I use for general work and the stainless for food prep(never got used to the bite carbon imparts to food..) CASE makes a generally decent knife these days, and apart from some collector based excesses....they ARE for using.

Would like to get their Large Stockman in cv Bonestag but they are becoming scarce, having it shipped to the EU is another problem too.
 
One thing I have noticed is that the CV seems to lose its bite over time, even if it's not used ... I think this may be attributed to oxidation on the edge itself.

I've noticed the same thing with my carbon steel knives (Case CV and Schrade 1095). When this happens, a quick stropping - even on your jeans if you don't have a proper leather strop - brings the edge right back.

I might add, regular stropping is a good idea for carbon steel blades you carry. Again, you don't need to make much of a production of this - you just want to get off that tiny, invisible bit of corrosion that builds up in time. If you wear jeans, or a leather belt or leather boots, you're already wearing all the "tools" you need for the job.
 
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Well guys bad news on the large stockman. I played with the mini trappers to check them out before I packaged them for my brothers. So I neglected to use the large stockman much but after opening and closing the knife about 10-20 times (and not in a row to cause overheating) the cam ends on the sheepfoot and clip blades have glazing on them. It made the large blade almost impossible to open. The other got progressively harder then let up a bit.

I just wonder if the chrome has come off the steel? Anyway still managed to use this and these narrow profile flat grinds sure cut. I hope case takes care of it.
 
the cam ends on the sheepfoot and clip blades have glazing on them. Overheating.
I just wonder if the chrome has come off the steel? Anyway still managed to use this and these narrow profile flat grinds sure cut. I hope case takes care of it.
I can tell you are into cars:D.

As for your problem, every new Case I have gotten has had quite a bit of abrasive compound in the joints, if you don't clean this out after a while it can make them hard and gritty to open. Try to wash the joints out with lighter fluid or WD-40 and then with soap and hot water, you may have to use a toothpick/match/q-tip/ or toothbrush to get it all out. If you still see some black residue on the brass liners, then you didn't get it all. After they are clean, dry well and put a small amount of oil on the joints, too much and it will attract dirt causing the same problem all over again.

BTW: Case doesn't chrome plate their knives, they just put a very good polish on the whole knife.
 
I have Cases in both and other carbon bladed knives. I prefer CV as I like the look and nostalgia. My TS Case Mini-Trapper - going on 10 years has served me well. The CV are limited. I'd have no qualms buying a TS in a design and model that I wanted. I have forced patinas on my Cases and have not had rust issues.

I have 2 Bucks in 420HC (Big Sky, 110). 420HC sharpens well. I may pick up their big stockman to add to my collection.

I'd buy the knife that you like the most regardless of the steel.
 
Well I have both. And If I have my choice, I get SS. In the past I went the other way, due to peoples comments on here. But I like the "maintenance free" of the SS and I can get a SS blade plenty sharp "for me". And I don't have to worry about it. I admit it seems you can get a better eadge on CV, but to me, the SS is good enough. But I don't use knives like others on here do. If I did I would probably lean more to CV.

Bill
 
Well guys bad news on the large stockman. I played with the mini trappers to check them out before I packaged them for my brothers. So I neglected to use the large stockman much but after opening and closing the knife about 10-20 times (and not in a row to cause overheating) the cam ends on the sheepfoot and clip blades have glazing on them. It made the large blade almost impossible to open. The other got progressively harder then let up a bit.

I just wonder if the chrome has come off the steel? Anyway still managed to use this and these narrow profile flat grinds sure cut. I hope case takes care of it.

I beg your pardon???

CV is non-stainless alloy steel. There are small amounts (0 to 2%) of chromium and vanadium in the steel. Those components do not plate out the surface. A new CV blade is shiny because it is highly polished, not because it is plated.

Kind of sounds to me like it got put away wet and got some rust working. Have you tried oiling it up?
 
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