I' have a new Case Folding Hunter model with the CV (carbon) blade option that I carry it mainly for the sentimental value in honor of a deceased uncle who played a large role in getting a fatherless kid into hunting and the outdoors 50 yrs. ago. Can someone tell me the approx. factory grind angle? I'm interested in knowing which angle on the Lansky clamp would be the best choice for touch-ups...17, 20, 25 or 30 deg.?
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Case factory grind
- Thread starter olddogrib
- Start date
ask and here you go straight from the case website.
Blades are honed at an inclusive angle of 35 - 45 from the factory. Maintaining a constant angle, hold the blade 17 - 22 from the surface of a sharpening stone and stroke the blade as if shaving a thin layer from the stone. Repeat the stroking motion along the entire edge of the blade starting at the blade heel and working to the tip. Turn the blade over and repeat the process.
Blades are honed at an inclusive angle of 35 - 45 from the factory. Maintaining a constant angle, hold the blade 17 - 22 from the surface of a sharpening stone and stroke the blade as if shaving a thin layer from the stone. Repeat the stroking motion along the entire edge of the blade starting at the blade heel and working to the tip. Turn the blade over and repeat the process.
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I personally go with 20 degrees per side (40 inclusive) on all of my Case knives, no matter the steel.
That is pretty much right in the middle of their range that kn4wd mentions, which is from here:
http://www.wrcase.com/case_college/collector_advice/caring.php
That is pretty much right in the middle of their range that kn4wd mentions, which is from here:
http://www.wrcase.com/case_college/collector_advice/caring.php
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In CV in particular, a 30° inclusive angle or even down to slightly below that, makes their edges slice really well. The 17° setting on the Lansky clamp is going to hit below 15° per side on the Folding Hunter's blades, in all likelihood, due to their width, which places the cutting edge further from the clamp's jaws and lowers the effective sharpening angle.
Assuming the knife isn't going to be used very hard (and I'm reading that into your post), a 25-30° inclusive angle will handle any and all light tasks easily, and will be very easy to maintain sharp.
I don't waste time anymore sharpening any Case blade (actually, any blade at all) to anything wider than 30° inclusive. The apex will still dull at the same rate (it's a property of the steel, not the angle), but the geometry will cut much, much better in the meantime, and even somewhat better than a wider-angled edge, after the apex loses a little crispness. At 40° inclusive or wider, just a tiny bit of wear at the apex will stop cutting in it's tracks.
David
Assuming the knife isn't going to be used very hard (and I'm reading that into your post), a 25-30° inclusive angle will handle any and all light tasks easily, and will be very easy to maintain sharp.
I don't waste time anymore sharpening any Case blade (actually, any blade at all) to anything wider than 30° inclusive. The apex will still dull at the same rate (it's a property of the steel, not the angle), but the geometry will cut much, much better in the meantime, and even somewhat better than a wider-angled edge, after the apex loses a little crispness. At 40° inclusive or wider, just a tiny bit of wear at the apex will stop cutting in it's tracks.
David
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- Sep 23, 2014
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Hi,
How low can you go?
Keep lowering the angle until making 1000 slices at a time doesnt damage the edge like this Normark EKA 12C27 : optimal edge geometry for slicing hardwoods (norton economy fine edge) - CliffStamp
Guy starts with 7dps and ends with 12dps
Also, consider this mind exploding material Extreme Regrind , ~6DPS no damage in 50 slices into pine, hardwood flooring and plywood the edge eventually gets damaged while cutting metal (steel food can)
How low can you go?
Keep lowering the angle until making 1000 slices at a time doesnt damage the edge like this Normark EKA 12C27 : optimal edge geometry for slicing hardwoods (norton economy fine edge) - CliffStamp
Guy starts with 7dps and ends with 12dps
Also, consider this mind exploding material Extreme Regrind , ~6DPS no damage in 50 slices into pine, hardwood flooring and plywood the edge eventually gets damaged while cutting metal (steel food can)
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Case knives have nice Full hollow grind that is my favorite,and they cut well.I keep 30degree inclusive angle on these knives and they cut like straight razors,and keep edge well.Their tru-sharp and CV steels are both good edc performers and easy to sharpen !
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I just sharpen it on stone,so its slight convex,,,,or flat,doesnt really matter.What matters most is thickness of the blade and grind which is thin and done well.
Edge angle has a large influence on how long an edge lasts. It can be a larger factor than the steel. The lower the angle, the longer it will last, unless the task is sufficiently demanding that the edge buckles.
Try to match the factory angle, and maybe lower the angle one step every so often and see if it's still strong enough to handle the uses you have. If so, you can increase the edge holding a surprising amount. If not, just back up one step and leave it there.
Try to match the factory angle, and maybe lower the angle one step every so often and see if it's still strong enough to handle the uses you have. If so, you can increase the edge holding a surprising amount. If not, just back up one step and leave it there.