Case Sod Buster Pivot Question and one other

[Wowbagger]

I'm really getting into using this Case Sod Buster.
I am curious about the pivot. Is the pivot pin (rivet) really that large of a diameter all the way through the blade or does it neck down and is just fat on the ends ?

This is the "medium" Blue Navy Delrin SS purchase new recently
part nu CSCCA13007
item modle nu 13007

While I'm at it I will ask a second question.
After some fairly light sharpening the very point of the blade can be felt above the slot in the handle when closed.
My solution is to "clip" the blade a little more on the spine near the tip following the factory line. It has been suggested to me that I take some metal off the kick in stead.

Opinions ?

PS: I have a large white powered round grind stone (modern not old time) that runs slow in water. I won't be over heating the blade and recking the temper.
Ha, ha, I've already taken a couple of different very coarse diamond plates to the area and she fought me. Hardly took any significant quantity of metal off. So heat treat seems to = decent.

 

[Guitarist7.62]

I’m not sure about the first question, but second one I would just slightly file the kick to lower the tip. Won’t alter the blade shape and much easier to file a little area and make it look good, compared to the larger area of the spine.

I wouldn’t be worried about the heat treat getting ruined on the grinding wheel I would be worried about how much metal is being removed. Seen quite a few axes ground down to softer steel because the original owner(s) used a grinding wheel every time it needed sharpened. Hone more, sharpen less.

 

[solphilos]

I modified my Sodbuster Jr. into more of a drop point and am quite happy with it. I didn't have the issue you mention but wanted a bit more of a point without taking away too much of the Sodbuster look. With the broad belly of the Case this isnt difficult.

As for the rivet, yes it flares at both ends and is smaller in diameter through the pivet. My question is to whether it is peened over a washer or the type with a male and female end pressed into each other. I have some bone on the way and am planning a re-scale job

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

The pivot pin on the Case Sod Buster is what's known as a 'cutlery rivet'. The visible heads of each of the two halves (male, female) are wider than the body of the rivet itself. If you Google the term, you'll find lots of pics to get an idea what they look like. Not sure how thick the body of the rivet is, though I'd imagine it's not much narrower than maybe 3/16" or so.

Per the 2nd question, you probably can take a little steel off the kick of the blade, to lower it just a hair. You just need to go about it very gradually, a little bit at a time. Make sure there's room underneath the blade's edge for it to drop a little.

Longer-term, it may be worth considering grinding down the tip a little bit, from the spine side. If you don't have access to a powered grinder (or if you'd rather not use one), an easy way to do it is with a grinder belt of fairly coarse grit (80-120) in aluminum oxide, with the belt cut at the seam and laid flat to a hard surface. Gluing it down is a good idea, for solid backing and preventing it from lifting or otherwise moving. Drag the spine along the length of the belt, keeping the portion of the tip you wish to grind down in flush contact, finishing the pass at the very tip of the blade. Keep the butt of the handle LOW, so as not to lift it and round off the tip of the blade. I used this method with a 120-grit zirconia-alumina belt (3" x 21", from Sears), which got the job done in ~ 20-45 minutes' time or so, to fix broken or severely rouded/blunt tips on blades. The tiny bit of grinding needed to keep the tip recessed in the handle of your Sod Buster should take a lot less time, maybe just a handful of passes. The coarse grit and long abrasive surface length is what really speeds the work up. I pressed a wine cork onto the upward-facing sharpened edge of the blade, in order to give my finger a place to exert some pressure and maintain control.


David

 

[Wowbagger]

wanted a bit more of a point without taking away too much of the Sodbuster look. With the broad belly of the Case

zaclly what I was thinking

Thanks for the info on the rivet ! ! !
I was thinking ; man if this rivet is that big it sure is meant for busting stuff.
Nah I treat it well.

As far as the cork trick; yes that was part of my problem while using the diamond plates . . . being able to push down on it with even moderate force. It didn't take much and the knife would start to close. I figured when I got serious I would put a little clamp on the blade padded of course. Now I have another option.

zirconia-alumina belt

I love those things they cut like crazy.