Case sodbuster

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Jan 23, 2007
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I recently acquired a Case sodbuster in the American Workman synthetic handle material. It's the 4 5/8" closed size and I really like it for cutting chores out at the ranch so far.

Here's a stock photo:
13007.jpg


I like it better than my Rough Rider because the Case model doesn't have the linerlock. I find my grip much more comfortable without it. Of course, YMMV as I have large hands and want all 4 5/8 inches of that handle.

A question though. The blade is ground exceptionally square. So square that it seems almost sharp. I know it really isn't although it will probably wear out my pocket liners sooner than other knives would but is this what Case calls their "as ground" finish? I'm tempted to see what can be done to "de-horn". so to speak, the edges of the blade although they may have been left that way to facillitate scrapeing.
 
The knife pictured is part of their American Workman Series with, as you metioned, 'as ground' blades. Case generally really dehorns their blades...almost to a fault at the spring interface. I had never considered the advantages of the sharp spine edge on the 'as ground' pieces. Dehorning the edges of the spine should not be a problem as long as you don't overheat the blade if you use a machine.
BTW, good solid USA made knife at a good price, eh?
md
 
I have had this same issue before. My wife was getting a sore finger using her chefs knife due to the sharp edged spine. Just use a little 320 grit backed with a hard block or piece of steel and ease the corner at a 45 degree just a touch. Go slowly, keep the same angle all the way through. A little sanding can go a long way and you will feel the improvement before you can see it so stop sanding at that point to keep a square looking spine. And of course avoid the tang joint where it meets the spring as this will affect the fit.

I also find many times the inside edge of the liner to be a little sharp, and I do the same thing. Being brass, it takes just a few passes to soften them up.

I don't hesitate to modify or refine a blade. It's a tool that I want to use and enjoy so if I feel like it might cut a hole in my pocket or be uncomfortable then I correct it.
 
I may try the sandpaper and see what happens.

After thinking a little more about this it would not be safe to use this knife to scrape with those spine corners. It would fold right up on you (no liner lock). Shame on me!
 
I don't hesitate to modify or refine a blade. It's a tool that I want to use and enjoy so if I feel like it might cut a hole in my pocket or be uncomfortable then I correct it.

On a work knife I never hesitate! I will get the Dremel out if need be to fix something on a blade, its fit, grind angles or even appearance once it is mine. For me, a work knife is a tool, and as a tool it must be able to do its job the best way possible with minimal fuss.

I may try the sandpaper and see what happens.

After thinking a little more about this it would not be safe to use this knife to scrape with those spine corners. It would fold right up on you (no liner lock). Shame on me!

OOPS.... I was thinking that you were using it as a scraper in the way I use my large work knives, and that is closed. My RAT 1 is the dandiest scraper I have ever had on a pocket knife, and that is one of the reasons that it sees the most pocket time. Closed, the spine is almost sharpened as one would a cabinet scraper. Wouldn't use a non-locker as a scraper.

Sand paper is an excellent idea. A common way to maintain an angle and sand exactly where you want to is to wrap the sandpaper around an object like a square stick. That way you can actually cut an angle as opposed to simply rounding as you would with plain paper.

Robert
 
I have the Stainless and the CV versions of this knife. The Stainless has a very hard edge on the spine. The CV is much more polished and the spine edges or much smoother, you may want to check one of those out. Trevor~
 
I have the Stainless and the CV versions of this knife. The Stainless has a very hard edge on the spine. The CV is much more polished and the spine edges or much smoother, you may want to check one of those out. Trevor~

The downside is that Case no longer produces the large (4-5/8") soddie in CV. If they did, I'd jump on it. I have one of the large soddies in SS, and I think it's a great knife. But I keep holding out hope that Case will do the big one in CV too.
 
After thinking a little more about this it would not be safe to use this knife to scrape with those spine corners. It would fold right up on you (no liner lock). Shame on me!

That makes me feel better :D When I first read that, I cringed and saw bad images in my mind.

I've had a few knives over the years, that needed a little touching up, to get rid of sharp edges.
 
Midnight Flyer- You're right. Closed would be fine but at the time I was thinking of when I stripped the bark off a hotdog stick with the spine of my Fiddleback Ladyfinger. No harm done there.

Closed would be ok. Open definitely not!
 
Picked up two, old, full size case CV sodbusters on-line. They are getting harder to find & more expensive (>$20). Had the same problem and went over the spine with fine sandpaper, trying to round it off. It worked well but took a few minutes. Also treated the blade with gun bluing. Turned out so nice I had to give one away to a friend.
It is my ranch knife too, carry it in an open belt sheath.

Tom
 
I'm tempted to see what can be done to "de-horn". so to speak, the edges of the blade although they may have been left that way to facillitate scrapeing.

I dont know if this might be of some use but with me I have had a slipjoint fall out my pocket due to the corner being worn by the knife. My solution for any knife I am going to carry in pocket is this.

PA220008.jpg


It is a simple fold over piece of leather big enough to carry almost any 3 inch folder. I added the kydex this past Friday because I needed a flashlight the past few weeks a lot.

PA220009.jpg


It prevents the sharpish corners from making a hole. I know many will not like it due to the added weight. As it is in picture +- 155 grams.
 
Picked up two, old, full size case CV sodbusters on-line. They are getting harder to find & more expensive (>$20). Had the same problem and went over the spine with fine sandpaper, trying to round it off. It worked well but took a few minutes. Also treated the blade with gun bluing. Turned out so nice I had to give one away to a friend.
It is my ranch knife too, carry it in an open belt sheath.

Tom

I picked up a 1970 10-dot 2138 large soddie in carbon steel (not specifically marked 'CV' back then), in essentially mint condition, on the 'auction site' a while back. The seller had originally listed it as a 1975 (5-dot), but the pics in the listing were of the 10-dot. I asked the seller about it, he confirmed it was the 10-dot. Didn't seem to be concerned about letting it go for the same price. Got it for cheap.

I've seen some other large CV soddies, in new/mint condition go very high in price. In particular, the yellow-handled ones (3138CV) seem to sell very high ($50 - $70 sometimes).
 
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