I have nothing against Case's TruSharp at all. Infact, i now EDC a peanut and pen, both in trusharp. I'm thinking though, that their ability to cut so well, and be easy to sharpen, is partly because of the incredibly nice edge-geometry on the blades.
Before, i'll admit, i was a steel snob. The more theoretically tough and hard-wearing a type of steel was, the more i loved it. Now i've tried everything from high end production knives with powder steel blades, to semi-custom knives with unknown blade steel, to low-end knives with 420J2 steel blades.
And i've discovered, that i like stainless steel for it's ability not to stain/pit/rust, but i also at times, find it difficult to reconfigure the edge geometry i prefer, from factory default.
So i was surprised at my first Case, a congress in pocket worn green bone. It was sharp, and had thin blades designed to cut. The TruSharp takes a nicely polished edge from my fallkniven dc4, and keeps it pretty well.
Going back in time, i believe that old timers would tell you that they sharpened their knives a lot more than we do today, simply because the steel in their knives were run much softer in hardness than our modern knives. I might be wrong in this, but it wouldn't surprise me much, if hard-working farmers knives were hardened only up to a low 50's in HRC scale.
What i've noticed in my search for more balanced steels, is that generally, they're easy to sharpen, like plain old carbon steel. And as long as they keep their edge for more than a few cuts, then i'm happy.
To me, the Victorinox steel, Bucks 420HC, Case's TruSharp, and similar steels like 12c27, AEBL/13c26 are balanced, well performing steels. So i don't quite get why more manufacturers don't use steel like this, especially AEBL/13c26, which seems to be fine-blankable, and easy to grind, while also being cost effective.
I read somewhere that AEBL is like plain old carbon steel to sharpen and to keep an edge, except it's stainless.
And in my mind, TruSharp isn't far behind.
(Sorry about this somewhat lengthy rant. I'll blame it on the bottle! What i meant to say with it, is the following: Case TruSharp is A-OK to me! If it wasn't i wouldn't EDC it. Remember, that while a steel may look kinda s--tty on paper, like AEBL, it might just bring all its constituents together in such a way as to create a pretty decent, well-balanced piece of steel. AEBL can be described with all the words that the newer powder metallurgy steels can be described with.
From google:"...less Chromium AEB-L has than 440B, it makes it a much better steel, it actually gets hard (up to 63-64 as quenched). It is fine-grained (as much so as powder steels), tough (close to S30V, maybe a little bit better or worse), stain resistant (good as 440C), and should hold an edge as well as 440C or better."
Thus, if TruSharp is anything like 420HC, it too will show similar factors. (420HC contains 0.20% less carbon than AEB-L. Might not get as hard in quench, but a decent steel it is, nonetheless.)
Also from google: "John Verhoven, metallurgist, says that AEB-L would be the best all-around steel for knifemakers. The reasons he gives for good edge retention are: 1. hardens to 63-64 Rc 2. very fine carbides that avoid carbide pull-out (which happens in coarse carbides) and add to wear resistance 3. The K2 carbide is formed, which gives better wear resitance to the K1 carbide which is formed in Mo steels such as 154-CM.
From this, and my own uses of it, it should give edge retention equal to or slightly better than 440C."
This in turn will also translate, roughly onto 420HC. Now, if only Case would come clean, and tell everyone, in no uncertain term, the steel they are using in their TruSharp line, things would be easier.)
Anyway: Case TruSharp stainless, is a decent steel. It's serviceable. You don't need a $100 setup to sharpen it. It is what it is. A working steel.
And now it's time to drink some more.