CASE XX (1940-64) 62048 SLIM TRAPPER Flea market score!!

Kitten Party

Kitten Party

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Jun 9, 2014
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Got this at a flea market today. Also picket up the 1080T for $12. I dont know alot about the case trappers, looks like most of the ones people are after arent the bare ended ones like this. I would like to restore the case a bit. I dont know a lot about that. The blades wobble a lot. I have fixed the blade wobble on my buck 301 by just clamping the bolsters with some pliers but I'm alittle aprehensivve about doinng this with this knife. Also sanding down the blades a bit with someo sandpaper to shine them back up. There is pitting I dont think I can get rid of though. If anyone has any suggestions for restoration let me know...I was thinking about using Brasso on some of my knives that have kickle silver, is this ok to do? Enjoy the pics!





 
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Likely too late but please do not sand the blades, they have little to no red rust that I can see. Sanding them just exposes the bare metal, removing the patina and consequently just inviting rust to form much easier than if you had left them alone.

The blade looseness can likely be fixed by tightening the bolsters carefully. Very light taps with a hammer on the bolsters while they are protected by leather or thick cardboard so there is no direct contact between hammer or surface used as anvil on the bolsters. If the pin is just too loose to hold the bolsters snug then it will have to be repinned.
 
Nah, I didn't sand it. I was waiting to hear back from folks. There is no rust. Thanks for the tip with the tightening. With the sanding, I was just kinda wondering what people do when they restore these older knives and perty 'em up (I see "restored" case knives a lot on the bay). I don't really plan on selling this and if I can get the bolsters tightened I will probably carry it occasionally ( I carry all my knives, if I dont, I sell them). I've got a 1960's schrade 825 that I sanded the blades and I think it looks really nice personally.
 
I see from your pictures that the pins have sunk below the surface of the bolsters. That, as I assume you know, is why the blades are sloppy. While clamping or light hammering on the bolsters may help temporarily, that sloppy action will return. Since the pins have pulled below the bolsters, the only true way to fix that is to make those pins be proud of the bolsters and then peen them over. Of course, you can ruin the action by doing that too much.

As to the cleaning of the blades, I also believe that they should be left as is, as long as there is no active rust. Of course, that is up to you to decide.

Glenn
 
glennbad said:
I see from your pictures that the pins have sunk below the surface of the bolsters. That, as I assume you know, is why the blades are sloppy. While clamping or light hammering on the bolsters may help temporarily, that sloppy action will return. Since the pins have pulled below the bolsters, the only true way to fix that is to make those pins be proud of the bolsters and then peen them over. Of course, you can ruin the action by doing that too much.

As to the cleaning of the blades, I also believe that they should be left as is, as long as there is no active rust. Of course, that is up to you to decide.

Glenn
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Thanks for the wisdom. I did clamp the bolster gently and now the pin is ever so proud on each side and the blades operate much better and there is almost no side to side play. It apears that the previous owner HEAVILY sanded the blade and backpring as they lack patina and have "worn" looking pitting throughout reminiscent of an old fixed blade that I have that was heavily rust damaged that I sanded to remove the rust. The backsprings are also heavily pitted but lack any patina. None of the pitting is near the edge so it is only cosmetic, I sharpened it up and fixed the funky tip on the clip point so it will be going into the rotation now that its user ready :D All of the case xx era knives have carbon steel, is that correct? Just noticed how terrible all my pictures all lol.
 
The blades look fine the way they are. Looks like the user kept them clean over the years by buffing the blades once in a while. Some good advice in this thread. Nice knife!
 
This was my grandpa's Case trapper, he passed away in 1973. Is the model No. stamped on your spey blade? If it is, it was made between 1949 and 1964. Case began stamping model numbers in 1949. Mine is from 1940-1948.

Nice knife you picked up. :)


IMG_1010_zps1b076c8e.jpg
 
Markesharp said:
This was my grandpa's Case trapper, he passed away in 1973. Is the model No. stamped on your spey blade? If it is, it was made between 1949 and 1964. Case began stamping model numbers in 1949. Mine is from 1940-1948.

Nice knife you picked up. :)


IMG_1010_zps1b076c8e.jpg
Click to expand...
No sir, no stamp on the spey. Thanks for the info makes me like it even more! Too bad its not as nice as yours ;) quite a bit of material is missing from the clip on mine, probably half an inch....
 
Kitten Party said:
No sir, no stamp on the spey. Thanks for the info makes me like it even more! Too bad its not as nice as yours ;) quite a bit of material is missing from the clip on mine, probably half an inch....
Click to expand...

Thank you. Actually if you look at the clip blade, it was my grandpa's favorite, it is quite smaller than the spey. ;)
 
Markesharp said:
This was my grandpa's Case trapper, he passed away in 1973. Is the model No. stamped on your spey blade? If it is, it was made between 1949 and 1964. Case began stamping model numbers in 1949. Mine is from 1940-1948.

Nice knife you picked up. :)


IMG_1010_zps1b076c8e.jpg
Click to expand...

Mark,

Is the model stamped on any particular blade on those 40-48's? My grandfather's has the model number on back side of the main blade on the Case XX Texas Jack I have of his.
 
Those are nice; that and the old 47 two blade with pen secondary is what my grandfather carried. He passed on in 2006.
 
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