Case XX, New-Old Stock

A

ArfinGreebly

Joined
Apr 3, 2008
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369
Last evening I finally dropped by a local feed store I'd been meaning to visit since I moved up to North Idaho.

Their knife bin at the register had an assortment of cheap imported folders and that was pretty much it.

I kinda sighed at this and asked the guy if by chance they had any Case knives.

To my surprise, he said they did. Stuff that had been on the shelf for, he thought, about five years. Hiding on a shelf behind the register booth were three of them, a stainless green bone stockman in a John Deere gift tin, a Coke-Bottle-shaped two-blader (looked like Peanut blades with a different chassis), also in stainless, in a Coca-Cola gift tin, and finally, a yellow-handled Sod Buster Jr. in CV, still in the original box.

2008_0814-Knife001.jpg


As he opened the sodbuster, he mused that he thought it was "a little rusty." Sure enough, there was a spot on the left side of the blade, and some rust spots along the edge itself on both sides.


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Bummer.

The sticker on the box announced its price as $20. Figuring I could salvage the edge, I inquired if he'd be willing to knock five bucks off. Indeed he could.

So, $15 later, I headed home with my old/new CV Junior.

2008_0814-Knife004.jpg


Now I have a project: remove the rust (red rust, not grey or black) without damaging with finish.

I've removed rust from knives before, but by that time there's never been a mirror finish to preserve.

I know I can get the rust off, but perhaps some of you have some guidance for me on the best way to lose the rust while keeping the finish.

I have a couple of others in CV, one still pristine in the box, the other with an induced patina -- oh, and one that I got really used, with a natural patina -- and for this new (old) one, I'd like to clean it up, remove all the red rust, and give it a fresh start on a natural patina.
 
Nice deal, AG! Since the rust has penetrated the factory finish, you can no longer get it back. If you are looking for a dark patina, I would rub the blades with the finest steel wool, until the texture is even, sharpen the rust off the edges using a "jig" type sharpening system like a Lansky, and degrease it carefully with soap and very hot water. Then I'd soak it up to the handle in hot apple cider vinegar till it turns black. Wash it again with soap and a cloth, and rinse in super hot water. When I do this, I get a nice even grey that helps resist corrosion. Great for a user.
 
I wouldnt worry so much about the finish since it cv it will most likely develop a patina as it gets used :thumbup: Just remove the rust, follow waynorths advice... or try Mineral oil and 000 steel wool...
Great Score !
ivan
 
ArfinGreebly said:
2008_0814-Knife004.jpg

Now I have a project: remove the rust (red rust, not grey or black) without damaging with finish.

I've removed rust from knives before, but by that time there's never been a mirror finish to preserve.

I know I can get the rust off, but perhaps some of you have some guidance for me on the best way to lose the rust while keeping the finish.

I have a couple of others in CV, one still pristine in the box, the other with an induced patina -- oh, and one that I got really used, with a natural patina -- and for this new (old) one, I'd like to clean it up, remove all the red rust, and give it a fresh start on a natural patina.
Click to expand...

You make it sound like this knife is a baby with a rare type of tumor in need of advanced gamma knife surgery. The cv soddie junior is a dadgum tank! :D

This knife is a user (and a GREATER to boot, IMHO, if you couldn't tell), as it has no collector value. Just sharpen it up, which will take the rust off the edge, then wash the blade in warm soapy water and scratch off what you can of the other rust with your thumbnail. Dry knife thoroughly, drop a bit of oil on the joint, close it, and jam it in your pocket. Then go about your day.

I think I speak for the other guys here when I say I'd love to see some after pics too. Good luck.
 
Thanks, guys.

Yeah, I know, silly to want to "baby" this thing, I figured the practice at cleaning up a polished-but-rusty blade would do me good.

I will certainly post the "after" pictures.

I've already removed the top layer of rust (the really red/brown portion) using toothpaste, dressed the edge with a medium Arkansas stone (which removed the ragged burr).

She's plenty sharp, and the blade doesn't snag when run full length over the edge of my thumbnail.

I'll work the edge gently until the rust pitting is gone, and see what I can come up with for a polish or paste for that side blemish.

Funny, I looked at it in the store and thought, "well, I don't have to worry about whether this one gets used."

More pix when I hit the next stage.

 
I use a #2 pencil to get rust off of carbon or cv steel. I just run run the sharpened end over the the rust and it comes right off. Then just wipe off with a rag with a little gun oil. Works great at getting the rust off and leaves the patina. Give it a try.
 
waynorth said:
Nice deal, AG! Since the rust has penetrated the factory finish, you can no longer get it back. If you are looking for a dark patina, I would rub the blades with the finest steel wool, until the texture is even, sharpen the rust off the edges using a "jig" type sharpening system like a Lansky, and degrease it carefully with soap and very hot water. Then I'd soak it up to the handle in hot apple cider vinegar till it turns black. Wash it again with soap and a cloth, and rinse in super hot water. When I do this, I get a nice even grey that helps resist corrosion. Great for a user.
Click to expand...


That's what I'd do, I think an induced patina certainly resists spots better than one that occurs naturally. The 3M scotchbrite pads in white don't take too much metal off.
 
Alright, so I've started on it.

Got some fine grit lapping compound from the auto parts store, and using that with Q-Tips, here's how far I've gotten.
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There's still a "shadow" where the rust blotch was.

The edge has now been dressed on a medium stone and a diamond steel, along with some stropping with the polishing compound.

I'll be getting some finer grade paste or rouge if I can find it.

I'm not sure I'll get it "perfect" but when it's as good as I can get it, then we'll home-brew some "bluing" for it.

Funny how you develop a fondness for a blade after you've spent some serious time with it.

Hey, it may be lipstick on a pig, but it's my pig.

:D

 
If you want to bring the finish back, try some green strop paste and work the entire blade...that stuff will make any metal nice and shiny without removing much material. In fact, you could probably use some 1500-2000 grit wet/dry on those rust spots followed by the green paste and it'll still look brand new.
 
For the more ignorant among us . . .

What is this green paste of which you speak?

Where might one find it?

What's the proper applicator?

 
Chromium Oxide; usually comes in crayonesque bar form, or powder form, never used the paste myself. Lee Valley Tools(with whom I have no affiliation)is supposed to have good sized bars of it for a fair price from what I hear. Might as well kill two birds with one stone and have enough left for a stropping compound. Barring that you might want to check a local hobby shop, hardware store, or lapidary supply store. Hope that helps, and that soddie is coming along nicely, good work.


Gautier
 
What is this green paste of which you speak?
Click to expand...

It's the green compound used in buffing wheels....but also works quite nicely to strop a blade or to polish one up. If you go to your local Home Depot or Lowe's and ask someone for 'green buffing wheel compound' they'll take you right to it and even better is that a stick is about $3
 
Another way to induce a patina is with canned tomato sauce. I like using it with knives like sodbusters 'cuz all you have to do is open the can and adjust the level of tomato paste to where it's just right for your blade. Well, that and we always have some around. For some reason vineger is hit-or-miss in our house. Enjoy your sodbuster - they are a great knife!
 
I've picked up some jeweler's rouge, some "CR1" polish, and a stick of the green stuff.

I'll work it some more tonight.

I have no shortage of cardboard.

Pictures when I've made some more progress.

 
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