Case XX

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okBookGuy

Joined
Dec 29, 2005
Messages
145
I have a lot of exerience with SAKs but not much with CASE. Im interested in a CASE folder. Are new CASE XX knives made in USA
or are they made in china. Ive been reading through some of the threads
and it seems china stainless steel knives are to be avoided.
Also, what does five Xs on the tang indicate.

Thanks!
 
Cases are still made in the USA, in Bradford, PA to be exact. Five x's on the tang means the knife was made in 2005.
 
Yep like he said all Cases are made in Bradford, PA. Only thing is if you are looking for a user knife you'll want to get CV steel, their SS is best for collector knives but no where near as good as their CV steel. ALSO the dots and X's on the blade are a way to put the year the knife was made on the knife without just putting the year on there, there is an explanation of this on Case's website.
 
I agree. All about pocket knives is a very interesting site. There is a good research section that includes lots of info on Case and other pocket knives. A good site if you are interested in folding knives. Very helpful discussion there for novices and experts alike.
 
It's a good general info site, but is not 100% complete. It would be great if they updated it, and filled in the blanks. More info can be found in Parker's Guides.
 
If I would be so bold to suggest the best place to start would be something which has the CV steel, the classic yellow and a couple different bone handles, amber and red?(the new one).
Case's SS gets a pretty bad rap but like alot of knife steels its fine for average use, but the CV steel is the one to get no doubt about it!
Welcome to the World of Case............it can be adictive!
Cheers,
Kap
 
Yes, welcome. You'll learn a lot in a short time here.

As these guys have said, make sure you get the CV blades. The stainless is OK, similar to a buck 110, but it doesn't hold an edge like a good carbon steel. CV, on the other hand, gets sharper and stays that way longer. Not to mention, it develops a nice patina over time and with regular use.
 
Okay. I went with the Case 6318 medium stockman. It is built very well so I'm starting to develop a "thing" for them :O) But this is my first non SAK so I have a couple of questions.

First: Out of the box it was not sharp. I found that it did cut open packages and bags of fertilizer. But I can press my finger directly on the edge and saw back and forth w/o drawing blood. I mean there doesn't seem to be any edge at all. Although to look at it there is a very prominent "edge" to it (sorta like a chisel). But it isn't a dangerous edge or anything like that. A wenger out of the box is "scary sharp". That's what I'm comparing it to.

Second: All the blades were very stubborn with no walk/talk. But I was able to get them going again with oil. Question: Is this normal for Case out of the box?

Last: For Case users (this is going to be a user), what is your way to sharpen it? I have a spyderco sharp maker I've used on SAKs.

Thank you!
 
okBookGuy said:
First: Out of the box it was not sharp.
Click to expand...

I'll answer from my own personal experience. Yes that's somethat normal. I haven't been impressed with the out of the box edge from Case, but they will take a good edge.



okBookGuy said:
Second: All the blades were very stubborn with no walk/talk. But I was able to get them going again with oil. Question: Is this normal for Case out of the box?
Click to expand...

Again, yep...for me. New Case knives do not have the Walk/Talk of older Case knives. And most of the ones I have bought have come fairly dry and with some blackish buffing compound residue in them, that oiling cleared up. I prefer INOX brand oil for this, that black crap just oozes out for days whenever I open the knife until it all gets out.

FWIW..I experience the same thing with new Bucks.

okBookGuy said:
Last: For Case users (this is going to be a user), what is your way to sharpen it? I have a spyderco sharp maker I've used on SAKs.
Click to expand...

Sharpmaker should do just fine, I use DMT stuff, but the Sharpmaker has a great reputation.
 
I use the usually use the sharpmaker rods freehand or a Lansky Professional kit, it like a thicker than usual edge on my thin bladed knives so that the edge will last longer and don't used the sharpmaker rods in base for non-"tactical" pocket knives, due to the thinness of the blades having a wider edge doesn't really affect performance much but gives a longer lasting edge, I put a mirror polish on all of the edges with an ultrafine sharpmaker rod but leave the main edge on a stockman sharpened with just the medium rod in order to leave a toothier edge. By the way Case CV is fast and easy to sharpen, Case also makes a sharpening rod that is similar in texture to the Spyderco fine rod and would be a less expensive option to someone that doesn't have a sharpmaker.

Also to lube and clean the kinfe I use Tuff-Glide to lube and wipe the blades down with a Tuff-Cloth, I find this works very well while not leaving the knife wet like traditional oil or silicone can.
 
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