casiberia viking sword

1

1917cutlass

Joined
Jul 4, 2005
Messages
313
Does anybody have any information on the casiberia viking sword? I was wondering if it is worth getting, or is it just a piece of junk. Any first hand experience with it, and how well does it compare to the cold steel viking sword?
Thanks,

Cutlass
 
Unfortunately I don’t have 2-3 weeks I have a week and a day to get it. they are also a little bit to pricey for my taste. Do you have any experience with the cold steel or casiberia one?
 
Cutlass,

What is your intended use for said sword?
If we knew what your criteria for sword quality was we'd be better equipped to advise.

Are you looking for a wall-hanger/display piece?

Are you looking for (shudder) something for home defense?

Armed and armored practice combat?

Triton is right, of course. With certain notable acceptions, you tend to get what you pay for when it comes to such things.

Let us know,
B.
 
1917cutlass said:
Unfortunately I don’t have 2-3 weeks I have a week and a day to get it. they are also a little bit to pricey for my taste. Do you have any experience with the cold steel or casiberia one?
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I handled one at the Blade show 2 years ago. It wasn't terribly historically accurate, but was reasonably attractive and seemed solid enough. I say that with the caveat that Cold Steel's Euro line has a pretty bad track record, so if you plan on using it be careful.
 
Was it CAS Iberia that produced that pattern-welded/damascus viking sword with the polished bevels and damascus guard/hilt that Museum Replicas Ltd was selling for a while?

If so, my friend picked one up and it was lovely. Better fit and finish that most of the other MusReps stuff I'd handled. Neither particularly well or poorly balanced. And I can't speak at all as to its historical accuracy.

Again, I would have to ask the nature of the intended purpose and how much of a stickler you are for authenticity.

The only Cold Steel sword I've handled was one of their "katanas" and I was markedly unimpressed.

Hope this helps,
B.
 
To be honest it is more for decoration, but i do believe he will probobly fart around with it and probobly keep it next to his bed side as a shudder. Thank you everybody so far for your posts and remarks.

Arawn, i apoligize for the katana quality. My friends and i have a long history with those swords. Some come in great condition, others don't. My friend got one with a loose wrap and tsuba, i got a very nice one, even though it was very heavy for its size and the balance was a little off. My experience with the sword line has been with the 1917 cutlass (i love it) and the barong (too heavy for its size) but i am curious on the rest of the euro line.

Thanks everybody, cutlass
 
Triton said:
I handled one at the Blade show 2 years ago. It wasn't terribly historically accurate, but was reasonably attractive and seemed solid enough. I say that with the caveat that Cold Steel's Euro line has a pretty bad track record, so if you plan on using it be careful.
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have to say that most of the published problems with CS Euro swords have been with the Hand and a Half. I have the 2 basket hilts, a 1796 LC and a 1917 cutlass all cut well and show no ill effects from some heavy use( mainly pell work and target cutting)
Phil
 
pmel018 said:
have to say that most of the published problems with CS Euro swords have been with the Hand and a Half. I have the 2 basket hilts, a 1796 LC and a 1917 cutlass all cut well and show no ill effects from some heavy use( mainly pell work and target cutting)
Phil
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That's good to hear. I used to own a GrossMesser that was later snapped in half by a subsequent owner while cutting a pumpkin.
 
Ooops had heard of a couple of those too. Not sure why such an overbuilt sword would break so easily. I'll stick to recommmending the one s i have used personally LOL
Phil
 
pmel918, How are the two basket hilts, and the 1796 LC saber in regards to handling sharpness ect. And out of curosity, does cold steel sharpen the first 7 inches on the back of the 1796 LC?
 
1917cutlass said:
pmel918, How are the two basket hilts, and the 1796 LC saber in regards to handling sharpness ect. And out of curosity, does cold steel sharpen the first 7 inches on the back of the 1796 LC?
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Do you mean the last 7 inches of the false edge? IIRC, it was about 5-6 inches on the 1830 and the 1796. However recently the sharpness of CS stuff is a bit off regarding swords. Some come well-sharpened, some don't. My CWS (Dadao) came pretty unsharp, and now as a couple of scratches because of wavy machining... which I've polished out to be smooth but anyway...

End: just touch up the edge as likely the factory edge isn't that great.
 
Hi there
all of my CS swords were sharp from the factory, the 1796 LC would slice paper and the false edge is sharp. (Checked on a couple of antique 1796LC and with the knowledgable guys at Sword Forums and it seems some are an some aren't) the major problem with the edges is that they are groundvery much like a knife edge with 2 bevels rther than the single bevel seen on most period blades.
Phil
 
Good news, I ordered the CS Viking sword and it’s great. Sharp as a razor, sturdy, firm, great weight for its size, and even well balanced. A lot better than I asked or hoped for. The main complaint I have about it is that the scabbard has nothing on it to attach the sword to your side, and the steel seemed to be a bit brittle, however I tested it out on some card board and cantaloupe and it seems to be just fine. A lot Better than I had expected, especially for the price of the sword. Also, you are right pmel018, it does have two bevels like most knives.

Cutlass
 
Hey y'all! I'd REALLY recomend Kris cutlery! they have really great prices, and their swords are built MUCH better than either cas or cold steels. I llike cold steel's knives, but have heard nothing but bad about their swords. Check out Kris cutleries website. I have their katana and wak and love them both, not traditional but very high quality for the money. They have a viking also.
 
Glad you like it. Personally I think a lot of the issues with CS swords run on from the mega-hype of the CS owner. For the money most of them represent good valueand a nice basis for customisation. The only thing that I have bought from CS that I didn't like was the Scottish Dirk, yuk yuk yuk!!!!
To sort out a method of suspension you need to do some research as there are a few different ways of attaching your sword.
Phil
 
1917cutlass said:
The main complaint I have about it is that the scabbard has nothing on it to attach the sword to your side, and the steel seemed to be a bit brittle, however I tested it out on some card board and cantaloupe and it seems to be just fine.
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Just get a baldric. That's the historical method. Also, historical speaking, hollow grinds, secondary bevels, and convex edges are all okay if done well. Question: what led you to believe the edge was brittle? No lateral flexion? Tested with files?

The Chinese War Sword can be had for around 100 dollars. The Basket-hilt swords are considered decent buys. I personally think the Warrior katana aren't that bad for the price and make decently tough cutters.

That said, I am really tempted by Kris Cutlery, next to no bad feedback since nearly four years now. The finish isn't fantastic and apparently everyone says the 5160 doesn't have a very visible hamon (needs pretty decent polish and etching) their stuff is supposed to be the best bang for the buck....

A Shingen would look nice next to my bed :D.
 
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