Cavalry sword suggestion

Joined
Jan 5, 2010
Messages
248
I would like to buy a good quality cavalry sword . I like the Cold Steel 1796 Light Cavalry Saber but I saw many people on this forum talking bad about the quality of Cold Steel swords . Do you have anny suggestion of a similar shape sword but of better quality ? I looked at Albion because they have a good reputation but they don't make this kind of words . Thank You !
 
I would like to buy a good quality cavalry sword . I like the Cold Steel 1796 Light Cavalry Saber but I saw many people on this forum talking bad about the quality of Cold Steel swords . Do you have anny suggestion of a similar shape sword but of better quality ? I looked at Albion because they have a good reputation but they don't make this kind of words . Thank You !

Why don't you try to buy the real thing? You should be able to find a late 19th/early 20th century item for a few hundred bucks.

n2s
 
Why don't you try to buy the real thing? You should be able to find a late 19th/early 20th century item for a few hundred bucks.

n2s

Seconded, Right off the top of my head I don't know of any production outfit making what I would call a quality cavalry saber.
 
As a question--why do you want a cavalry sword rather than an infantry model? Do you plan on using/carrying it on horseback?
 
The Cold Steel swords are fine in this category and ok for the casual collector. Buy what appeals. They come sharp, are not perfect copies of originals but may satisfy the inner rebel or swashbuckler. The Windlass sabers the same and also from other sources.

A scary sharp original that I do cut with on occasion but you'll find replacement pricier than Cold Steel. This was during the process of repair and conservation. Delightful to cut light targets with and to handle but a bit of history I treat with respect in not pushing limits and do not treat it as a constant use sword.

Ozzycomp.jpg


The problem with suggesting antiques is that there needs to be research done by the potential buyer. A lot (and I mean a lot) of those late 19th century and 20th century swords are going to need sharpening and understanding. Many more will be found never sharpened at all. Aside from an 1820s-1830s mounted artillery sword I bought specifically as a loaner cutter at events, I did buy a reproduction some years ago specifically to use after sharpening. It was a shorter infantry type. It was a dull India made repro and I spent some time grinding a nice edge, Is that for everyone, even on an original? Think about that before plunging in the deep end.

This College Hill repro was pricier than it might have been but I have got a lot of use out of it.
CHSREPcomp.jpg

CHSREPcompa.jpg


I have cut with my generic "wristbreaker" as well but haven't sharpened it enough for others to appreciate if that were their taste. I did buy a mounted artillery sword for others to hack at mats with and that is even lighter than a period 1796 lc trooper.

There is some yin yan in pointing to antiques as an end all solution and I'd just as soon point them to Atlanta Cutlery (Windlass) and Cold Steel as try to find a suitable sword for someone. The Windlass American Revolution Horseman's sword for instance has been well received by some and is about $150 (or less) sharpened through Kult Of Athena. There are a number of reviews of modern made sabers at Sword Buyers Guide boards and I'll be glad to chew someone's ear off about antiques but it is hard to be helpful without real specifics. Many period swords are going to be found dull or less than sharp for fun play. Fixing that is something many will turn away from. It really depends on the individual and intent.

Somewhere down the list here you will find a thread I posted with pictures titled Some Sabers. The mounted artillery sword is shown there with similar remarks about why I bought an antique for cutting. It is still hand in hand with that India made "fake" College Hill repro and I find use for both.

I should host an antique dealer list of links somewhere but it is (even then) up to the individual to find what they want and like. I could yay or nay from that point in suggestion.

Cheers

GC

Cheers
 
Here is an MS Word document with a dealer list
http://files.myopera.com/3sails/files/Dealer sites.doc

If you open that and then cut&paste in an email to yourself, they will hyperlink. It is basically my current bookmark folder for dealers and updated fairly recently. There may be possibles (for instance) at Stewarts, Gunderson and many more. Reasearch, research, reasearch before buying an antique. The Prussian/German artillery swords that look like a 1796 will be sturdy, might be sharp, won;t really look like a 1796 in time and will cost more than the Cold Steel. Once you know what you are looking at, you may find a bargain but I say again, the Windlass and Cold Steel are fine for the casual collector at a better price with less grief unless you know what you are buying or bidding on.

My latest poky slashy thing is a straight Bavarian 1826 hilt sword with 34" of blade and marked to Horstmann Co NYC. 1830s, somewhat sharp, does hack cardboard, will not be further sharpened. Is sound and a great thruster. Don't plan on cutting cinder blocks or 2x4s though. Not even about to attempt mats without more sharpening but all I did was smooth out one nick. It will lacerate open flesh deeply in a blow though.

usnysword1.JPG


That and another $300 bracket sword was the mounted artillery piece from Ebay. Quite sharp and getting sharper.
%24(KGrHqYOKnUE4LE9rp%2BBBOKHQMfTcQ~~0_3.JPG

Sabres%20up%202011.jpg

Sabres%20long%202011.jpg


(those may open larger in a separate tab/window)

Have fun

GC
 
Last edited:
Nice M1840 Heavy Cavalry you have. Is it a US contract or an import?

It is a sharp generic with no markings. It could have been made any time after the French 1822 style began well past the civil war period but fits the basic parameter.

Here with a French 1854 dragon straight job and before removing the fireplace soot.
1840s%20001.jpg

1840s%20004.jpg

1840s%20005.jpg


Sharp from the get go. It was fairly hight street price at the time through Fagan Arms and was $550 delivered. Removing the soot was a chore. Some call that patina, I call it corrosive neglect.

Cheers

GC
 
Last edited:
The sword will be used from horseback and I don't want a antique , I want a new sword similar to the Cold Steel but of better quality and I'm aware that it would probably cost more but as they say "I'm too poor to buy cheep things " . Thank you for your suggestions .
 
The sword will be used from horseback and I don't want a antique , I want a new sword similar to the Cold Steel but of better quality and I'm aware that it would probably cost more but as they say "I'm too poor to buy cheep things " . Thank you for your suggestions .

To be truthful, if your feelings towards Cold Steel are regarding quality then you should be as dismissive of the entire market of reproduction sabres. The fact is most are coming from India and the same shops produce for more than one importer. Also and quite frankly, the higher tier of reproductions (including Cold Steel) will exceed the basic build of an original. Where all the producers (and this includes some custom makers) is that they have not handled originals of a specific type (such as the lc 1796).

www.armor.com Arms&Armor can regrind a Cold Steel or sibling source lc 1796 and make it a bit livelier but the issues are not the quality of build so much as the way the originals were ground. This leaves even reworked reproductions lacking in regard of exactly emulating an original. Craig and gang may even be up for trying their hand at recreating the 1796 type and you will probably still be dismayed that they won't do an iron/steel scabbard. You never know though ;)

There are some Czech smiths and consortiums that might be able to at a price with a long wait, ill defined result in quality and long range customer service.

Narrowing down the market to a handful of American smiths,

there is Kevin Cashen www.cashenblades.com/

Tony Swatton www.swordandstone.com/

and the guys at www.dragonsbreathforge.com/saberscurvedswords.html

These are three that have met the visual and historical parameters in copying originals. Others may promise the world and I don't doubt their capability but those three have proven to recreate the 1796 light cavalry types and understand what is going on with the blade grinds of the originals. That is not to say Craig of A&A doesn't know the statistics between an original and the Cold Steel swords he is regrinding but he will be the first to let you know recreating the type exacting as the originals is going to cost quite a bit more than what some will see reasonable.

The basic falling down for all the reproductions is the blade grinds in terms of distal taper. A typical original will be more than 3/8" stock at the hilt, halving that in the first ten inches of blade, then reducing from the fuller to the tip from 1/8"-1/16" and less. Again and in truth, the higher tier of the India made products are doing the best to replicate some of that.

There are many other custom makers out there that will place the same fairly extreme cost of recreating one. Add wait time. Durability wise, many have unrealistic expectations as to what originals went through and their own failings. It is not until the latter half of the 19th century that Wilkinson introduces the patent hilts that are basically full width tangs with slab grips. The original 1796 lc has a tiny wee tang that would shock many if seeing a bare blade and add an iron tang welded to the blade proper ;). The saving grace for sabres with a backstrap is the redistribution of force in a blow.

Rather than ramble a bit more here, I will underline that a sound original can be found cheaper than a custom and start looking at the low four figure bracket for a minty Prussian Blucher or British 1796 lc. Customs are going to cost more, honest.

So the choices are entirely yours. The Cold Steel and sibling higher tier 1796 lc types will exceed the needs of most modern collectors and re-enactors. There is no getting around that the same shops in India will be making them. Albion does not offer one, even in custom. A&A might approach the project (for $$$$). The three other American shops I mention I hold in high esteem and capable at least on the sword proper. Whether they would then gear up to do an iron/steel scabbard, well, the sky is the limit. The India advantage is having been geared up to produce the metal scabbards for a couple of centuries under British development. It is that British influence in production that means the basics of the early modern sabres are actually pretty well met.

Cheers and I hope that is helpful

GC

Editing to say I missed your location and the CZ or British smiths may be your best bet.
 
Last edited:
Thank you for your post . Indeed the Czech Republic is a better option for me . If you have some sites or adress from Cz please let me know .
 
Just one British source to consider for a commission. I know Paul has done Napoleonic era sabres in the past and would be well suited for a 1796. Another option would be to refit a period sword to "as new" condition.

http://www.macdonaldarms.com/armoury/galleryRotate.php

Pooley is known to refit older swords

http://pooleysword.com/

The Czech smiths I am not as aware of but a couple have shown they are capable enough. I will post their sites as I find them again.

Here is a German maker that does sabres
http://www.dietraumschmiede.de/index.htm

Cheers

GC
 
It is a sharp generic with no markings. It could have been made any time after the French 1822 style began well past the civil war period but fits the basic parameter.

Here with a French 1854 dragon straight job and before removing the fireplace soot.
1840s%20001.jpg

1840s%20004.jpg

1840s%20005.jpg


Sharp from the get go. It was fairly hight street price at the time through Fagan Arms and was $550 delivered. Removing the soot was a chore. Some call that patina, I call it corrosive neglect.

Cheers

GC

Thanks. You don't see too many eagleheads these days, either. I have a both a Horstmann and Tiffany Luneshloss M1840 import and a full set of US manufactures of the M1860 (amongst other odds and ends).
 
Also if looking to actually use it from horseback you'll need an appropriate sword belt. Not sure who to suggest for that, but perhaps Glen knows someone who does those as well. Generally a cavalry sword that is worn on the body (rather than affixed to the saddle) must be worn much lower than it would be on the ground, for comfort reasons. Typically there would be a hook on the belt that would allow the sword to be hung from the top suspension ring of the scabbard whilst on foot.
 
Thanks. You don't see too many eagleheads these days, either.

You are welcome. There are actually a good number of eagles circulating and more surface all the time. The truly old from before the 1812 war are getting less common finds but Heritage Auctions just closed an auction a couple of weeks ago that listed some dozens, of many types. Eagles are a bit of a passion for me. The one below/next to the 1840 is a Thurkle from about the mid 1790s. I've a couple of eagle straight spadroons that are of the earlier periods and an 1850s eagle double edge straight job as well.

~~~~~~~~~~~~

As to belts and hangers, I would defer to others but would mention many Napoleonic troopers and officers dragged their scabbards along the cobblestones. You will even see comedic wheels on some ;) The hook on the belt is more of a later trait and fitment. In the earlier periods, troopers were not so much walking about with their swords attached and officers had "stepping out" swords along the line of slim epee de ville swords. The British had a beefier straight dress sword, a type adopted by the US for their 1833 general officer swords (boat shell hilt baby broadswords).

If you look at the Blucher 1811 scabbards (essentially the same sword as the British 1796 lc), you'll see those scabbards with a massive toe/drag vs the very slim cap of the British form.

In the French system, the 1822 (our 1840 and "1860") was a light cavalry sword for melee and foraging. The currasier, carabinier and dragons (dragoons) all fielded large straight swords as in my 1854 pictured above. Those for massed line charges. Then there were lancers as well ;)

Way off the beaten path at this point and a bit out of my depth for the Napoleonic practices but there is a lot some may pick up by reading and research.

Cheers

GC
 
Last edited:
Back
Top