CBT Strippers

[Ulf Krogstad]

Hey guys, got this Mofo frok last ganza, well actually borrowing it from someone and they wanted me to strip it so I did. It had the white/black/gray coating on it. I've never had a problem with stripping a Busse kin, til now. I CAN NOT GET THE PAINT FROM IN BETWEEN THE CBT AND OTHER SPOTS TO COME OFF. Have spent hours trying to sand by hand out/off and just wont. Combination of stubborn paint and tricky grooves. I have only used citristrip to strip knives. Should I use a more potent stripper perhaps?, a more liquid one instead of the pasty/tacky citristrip so can possibly get in the nooks and crannies better then use a wire brush to scrub out? anybody have a similar issue before that solved? Any ideas are appreciated.

 

[mainaman]

I can't tell what the spotting might be, but I have used citristrip on CBT and it worked great. How did you do the clean up when you washed the blade? I use scotchbrite with soap and it worked very well for me.

 

[rsdeke]

I used a die grinder with a very fine 3M scotchbrite pad. Just be real careful around the edge, I caught the disc once and spun the shaft into the blade. Took a chunk out of the shaft, but surprisingly the knife was fine.

View attachment 749693

I used a die grinder and scotchbrite pad.

 

[Aias]

I think what you are seeing is the difference between cerakote and the typical epoxy coating... I think. The latter strips pretty easy; the former is a different animal... baked on ceramic, I think. I'm pretty impressed you got that much off!

I could be totally wrong, but that would be my guess.

 

[inkynate]

No experience with CBT, but have had to reapply Citristrip to get stubborn bits of coating off. I also found that applying a moderate amount of heat seems to make it work better, faster. I use a heat gun and infrared thermometer and heat to 110° f or so. A hair dryer on low should also work and not get the blade too hot. (Obviously you don't want to go crazy and risk blowing the temper on the blade or anything.) Failing that, Dremel and scotchbrite wheel?

Good luck!

Eta: Good thought Aias, never dealt with cerekote.

 

[clampdaddy]

A few weeks back I had to strip an old rifle stock with citristrip so I could refinish it. First application barely softened up the surface of that good ol' nitro lacquer finish that they used back in the 1940's. A buddy that does furniture restoration told me to try another application and then seal it up as best I could in a plastic bag, set it in a sunny area and then let it sit for 24 hours. That did it. The remaining finish came off incredibly easily.

 

[Ulf Krogstad]

What I do usually is just apply, than usually use another knife or wire brush to scrape it off. This cerakote stuff it insanely tough tho. I have made 3 differnet attempts with citristrip, qnd last two times did nothing, aias I think you are on to something there as tbought same myself, and inky I also use heat of sun or on stove to heat up to make process faster, Dremel is a great idea, I didn't want to use sand paper by hand or dremel to much either as didn't want the cbt grooves to get worn down by trying to get paint off. What I'm 5hink ing is trying more potent stripper and LIGHTLY using a dremel. All I know is if you want a durable coating go with white, holy f.

 

[Ulf Krogstad]

A few weeks back I had to strip an old rifle stock with citristrip so I could refinish it. First application barely softened up the surface of that good ol' nitro lacquer finish that they used back in the 1940's. A buddy that does furniture restoration told me to try another application and then seal it up as best I could in a plastic bag, set it in a sunny area and then let it sit for 24 hours. That did it. The remaining finish came off incredibly easily.

I am going to try this now!

 

[Aias]

Yeah--I think the heat (very moderate) will help. If you use any type of chemical + dremel be super carful--wear protective gear over you face and bare skin!

You probably know that, but it's worth saying. Good luck, brother! Post follow-up pics!

 

[LizaMari]

Very interesting thread. That zombie white cerakote is tough stuff! I am very interested in seeing how this stripper turns out. Like Aias said, post follow up pics when you get the beast finished!

 

[Ulf Krogstad]

Tried citristrip again, and it's still baking on stove. Wouldn't dry inside a bag. Trying dremel soon.

 

[Icky Thump]

I used a die grinder and scotchbrite pad.

Same here. Well, dremel.. and scotch-brite red and grey wheels...works great on CBT.

 

[CHEMMINS]

Circa 1895 I think it's called. Awesome stuff. Bubbles up before your eyes. All I use to strip blades.....and antique furniture.

 

[oge14]

Bead blast it. Should come right off. Also it get's in all the nook and crannies.

 

[tinfoil hat timmy]

Scotch Brite wheel on a drill mandrell. Works fantastic

 

[PeteyTwoPointOne]

I'll second < or is it 3rd, or 4th > the idea to use a Scotch Brite...

I have a Dremel with a flexible shaft...pinpoint control.

I've had some epoxy that was so stubborn I had to take the Dremel stainless wire brush attachment <it has a copper colored shaft> to budge it...

Then there are grayish black bonnets and brownish colored ones-- the brown ones are more aggressive but I'd hit it with those next and then the black. After that, I blend with hand sanding 600-1000 grit 3m wet/dry.

Just keep your touch light with the power tools and keep it moving-- don't hover over a stubborn spot too long without blending it.

There's easier ways, but I enjoy the process-- do a little, take a break, then come back to it.

 

[Ulf Krogstad]

Dremel I have is a "knock off", didn't come with many bits/accessories, so no where near perfect but it's good enough for now. Bead blast is also a fantstic idea and will leave with owner to see if wants that otheriwse will touch up later. Thanks for all the suggestions guys.