- Joined
- Jan 6, 2009
- Messages
- 286
As I was saying, I like my spindle about thumb width and square to start.
Now you want to start rounding down your spindle. It doesn't take long to widdle down those corners. Just keep it straight and symmetrical, as I have found it is easy to get sucked into this step and gouge one side a bit too much. To achieve a good cylinder shape is comforting, though as you can see I didn't make mine even NEAR perfect and it should still work wonderfully.
To create your friction or business end of the spindle, a not so pointy tip is what you want. To MAXIMIZE contact is the goal. (this side goes to the fire-board)
The opposite end should be nice and pointed. Our goal is to MINIMIZE contact on this end. (this side goes to your hand piece)
Next I made my hand piece. This component is heavily influenced by personal preference. There are endless options and using the same wood (if using wood at all) is not necessary. If you choose a different species of wood, be sure this one is harder than the spindle. As I said earlier, I made all three of my components from the same break of Cedar. I like to find a section that has a natural curvature to it. This will make for a much more comfortable block to hold on to.
I make mine a hair wider than the width of my palm. That's roughly 4.5" for me. I then drilled with the tip of my knife a small indent for the spindle to rest in. It doesn't need much. Just enough to hold the pointy tip steady as it burns itself into shape.
There are infinite ways to achieve the next task as well. Sufficient lubrication is key to running your machine efficiently. I used green leaves and oil from my forehead for mine. I crushed the leaves into place and worked them in by hand with the pointy end of the spindle.
I then drilled my fire-board to accept the less pointy side of the spindle. A foolproof way to find your landmark is to place your spindle on the edge of the board and mark the center with the blade of your knife. Then drill as you did on the hand piece.
CONTINUED IN PART III
Now you want to start rounding down your spindle. It doesn't take long to widdle down those corners. Just keep it straight and symmetrical, as I have found it is easy to get sucked into this step and gouge one side a bit too much. To achieve a good cylinder shape is comforting, though as you can see I didn't make mine even NEAR perfect and it should still work wonderfully.
To create your friction or business end of the spindle, a not so pointy tip is what you want. To MAXIMIZE contact is the goal. (this side goes to the fire-board)
The opposite end should be nice and pointed. Our goal is to MINIMIZE contact on this end. (this side goes to your hand piece)
Next I made my hand piece. This component is heavily influenced by personal preference. There are endless options and using the same wood (if using wood at all) is not necessary. If you choose a different species of wood, be sure this one is harder than the spindle. As I said earlier, I made all three of my components from the same break of Cedar. I like to find a section that has a natural curvature to it. This will make for a much more comfortable block to hold on to.
I make mine a hair wider than the width of my palm. That's roughly 4.5" for me. I then drilled with the tip of my knife a small indent for the spindle to rest in. It doesn't need much. Just enough to hold the pointy tip steady as it burns itself into shape.
There are infinite ways to achieve the next task as well. Sufficient lubrication is key to running your machine efficiently. I used green leaves and oil from my forehead for mine. I crushed the leaves into place and worked them in by hand with the pointy end of the spindle.
I then drilled my fire-board to accept the less pointy side of the spindle. A foolproof way to find your landmark is to place your spindle on the edge of the board and mark the center with the blade of your knife. Then drill as you did on the hand piece.
CONTINUED IN PART III
