- Joined
- Jan 6, 2009
- Messages
- 286
Sorry but I neglected to take enough pictures of the bow, but i generally make them about 2' in length and about 1" wide with a moderate curve. You can use green wood but there's no reason you shouldn't be able to find something dead. I use my saw and cut slits on both ends to attach my cordage. There are other ways to do this obviously but I like this method. I used my folding saw to do this. On most occasions I use simple para-cord for my bow, but I wanted to twist it up a little so I used the lace from my boot to see if it would suffice. Had I not had my pack it is all I would have had.
After you attach whichever cordage you have chosen, it is time to get started. Thread the spindle with the looped side facing outward from the bow. You want pretty solid tension on your spindle. Otherwise it will slip under pressure. Too much, and it tends to ride up and just frustrate you to the point of wanting to quit. DON'T. This is normal and just keep adjusting your knots until you have it right. (It shouldn't take all your strength to set the spindle, but it shouldn't be easy either. Once you get it, you wont forget)
I prefer to be barefoot for this part. It will improve contact with your board and provide you with more stability. For me it makes me feel a little closer with the earth that I love, and it leaves a cool brown stain of resin on your foot. Make sure you prepare the ground beneath you AHEAD of time. Clear the areas your body parts will make contact with of rocks and such. Your workspace where you will be drilling should be nice and flat if possible. I used some thin blocks of the cedar I had leftover from batoning as a base directly below my board.
About time to start drilling. I start out very slow, using only a small section of the bow and applying light pressure . This gets the contact points to start mending with each other minimizes risk of the spindle popping out. Once it feels good, start using the entire length of the bow and taper into using a moderate amount of pressure. Once you start to see smoke, increase pressure. When it starts smoking heavily, continue for another 10 seconds or so. Should end up looking something like this.
Now cut your notch. I like to take about an 1/8" bite out of the burned surface. Take your time on this part. It's easy to lose yourself on this step and give yourself a good slice.
Some folks like to have their tinder bundle directly under the board to catch the coal, but I think your tinder is best off remaining in its lofty state. I like to place a green leaf under my board and simply transfer the coal to the tinder once it's strong enough.
Get into position and prepare to bust a coal!
Start off using moderate pressure. Once you achieve steady smoke, apply heavy pressure and give it everything you got. This in my experience doesn't mean speed. High speeds lead to bad form, a wobbling spindle, and a scattered state of mind. I find consistent pressure and full strokes of the bow to yield the best results at a MODERATE speed. It's all about perfecting your form and remaining calm. Be sure to control your breathing. Keep it steady. Don't hold your breath. This deprives your muscles of essential oxygen required to allow them to perform at their peak. Maintain the heavy smoke for a good 20-30 seconds if your stamina permits.
When it comes time to stop, maintain your calm state of mind. Carefully remove the spindle and bow from your workspace. Don't move your foot or board. If the dust pile continues to smoke for more than 10 seconds, you probably got yourself a coal. CAREFULLY remove your board. Many of the instructional videos, and readings I have come across told me to get down and blow on the coal. My experience has taught me to leave it alone. Shelter it from wind with your LIFE. Let it build its strength. You can gently sprinkle remaining dust onto it. I let it sit up to a full minute or more.
Once you are confident your coal is strong, transfer it into your bundle. Gently fold it into the center. Doing this right takes a little practice. It requires a certain amount of pressure and contact with the tinder. Too much and your coal dies, too little and the coal has nothing to mate with and expand beyond itself.
Blow lightly and directly. That's the most accurate description I can muster up. It has worked for me many times. As the smoke gets thicker increase. Sorry I didn't have many pictures through this process, but It was just me. No third hand.
I would say about 1 out of every 2 executions of this have resulted in a flare up in my face, but it's the most rewarding of all burns I have experienced.
What I learned from this outing:
-If using a bootlace for your bow, be sure to fashion a slip knot or something of the sort. Permanent knots cinch up tight and are difficult to remove.
-I can't stress enough the importance of thanking nature whenever you utilize one of her resources. Not necessarly aloud, but to yourself. Take care of her and she will take care of you. Remember it's not survival. It's LIVING. And not living in the woods, but WITH the woods. Don't resist what is dealt to you out there, embrace it. Try and be still sometimes. Be quiet. Walk softly. Learn learn learn
Thanks for checking out my ramblings.
"The least I owe these mountains is a body" Can't remember who said it.
After you attach whichever cordage you have chosen, it is time to get started. Thread the spindle with the looped side facing outward from the bow. You want pretty solid tension on your spindle. Otherwise it will slip under pressure. Too much, and it tends to ride up and just frustrate you to the point of wanting to quit. DON'T. This is normal and just keep adjusting your knots until you have it right. (It shouldn't take all your strength to set the spindle, but it shouldn't be easy either. Once you get it, you wont forget)
I prefer to be barefoot for this part. It will improve contact with your board and provide you with more stability. For me it makes me feel a little closer with the earth that I love, and it leaves a cool brown stain of resin on your foot. Make sure you prepare the ground beneath you AHEAD of time. Clear the areas your body parts will make contact with of rocks and such. Your workspace where you will be drilling should be nice and flat if possible. I used some thin blocks of the cedar I had leftover from batoning as a base directly below my board.
About time to start drilling. I start out very slow, using only a small section of the bow and applying light pressure . This gets the contact points to start mending with each other minimizes risk of the spindle popping out. Once it feels good, start using the entire length of the bow and taper into using a moderate amount of pressure. Once you start to see smoke, increase pressure. When it starts smoking heavily, continue for another 10 seconds or so. Should end up looking something like this.
Now cut your notch. I like to take about an 1/8" bite out of the burned surface. Take your time on this part. It's easy to lose yourself on this step and give yourself a good slice.
Some folks like to have their tinder bundle directly under the board to catch the coal, but I think your tinder is best off remaining in its lofty state. I like to place a green leaf under my board and simply transfer the coal to the tinder once it's strong enough.
Get into position and prepare to bust a coal!
Start off using moderate pressure. Once you achieve steady smoke, apply heavy pressure and give it everything you got. This in my experience doesn't mean speed. High speeds lead to bad form, a wobbling spindle, and a scattered state of mind. I find consistent pressure and full strokes of the bow to yield the best results at a MODERATE speed. It's all about perfecting your form and remaining calm. Be sure to control your breathing. Keep it steady. Don't hold your breath. This deprives your muscles of essential oxygen required to allow them to perform at their peak. Maintain the heavy smoke for a good 20-30 seconds if your stamina permits.
When it comes time to stop, maintain your calm state of mind. Carefully remove the spindle and bow from your workspace. Don't move your foot or board. If the dust pile continues to smoke for more than 10 seconds, you probably got yourself a coal. CAREFULLY remove your board. Many of the instructional videos, and readings I have come across told me to get down and blow on the coal. My experience has taught me to leave it alone. Shelter it from wind with your LIFE. Let it build its strength. You can gently sprinkle remaining dust onto it. I let it sit up to a full minute or more.
Once you are confident your coal is strong, transfer it into your bundle. Gently fold it into the center. Doing this right takes a little practice. It requires a certain amount of pressure and contact with the tinder. Too much and your coal dies, too little and the coal has nothing to mate with and expand beyond itself.
Blow lightly and directly. That's the most accurate description I can muster up. It has worked for me many times. As the smoke gets thicker increase. Sorry I didn't have many pictures through this process, but It was just me. No third hand.
I would say about 1 out of every 2 executions of this have resulted in a flare up in my face, but it's the most rewarding of all burns I have experienced.
What I learned from this outing:
-If using a bootlace for your bow, be sure to fashion a slip knot or something of the sort. Permanent knots cinch up tight and are difficult to remove.
-I can't stress enough the importance of thanking nature whenever you utilize one of her resources. Not necessarly aloud, but to yourself. Take care of her and she will take care of you. Remember it's not survival. It's LIVING. And not living in the woods, but WITH the woods. Don't resist what is dealt to you out there, embrace it. Try and be still sometimes. Be quiet. Walk softly. Learn learn learn
Thanks for checking out my ramblings.
"The least I owe these mountains is a body" Can't remember who said it.
