Center line scribe

C L Wilkins

C L Wilkins

Joined
Mar 18, 1999
Messages
2,112
I am sure that most if not all of you have done this in the past but just in case.....

Instead of using a scribe to scribe the centerline on your blade before you grind you can lay your blank on a flat work surface and using a drill bit of approximately the same size, scribe the center line with the drill bit laid down on the surface as well. I have used a drill bit just a little smaller or larger and turn the blade over and do the other side. This will give you two "center lines" or "grind lines" to grind to.

C Wilkins
 
Great Idea!

I use a set of 10 dollars calipers. I set the dial at about half the blank thickness. Then scribe both sides with it. I like these because when making several different thicknesses of knives it helps . I just set the dial to around half and mark from both sides.

------------------
Web Site At www.infinet.com/~browzer/bldesmth.html
Take a look!!!




[This message has been edited by Darrel Ralph (edited 09 November 1999).]
 
this may sound dumb, but i just use a thick black marker, becuase when you grind up to it, the line it's self is the thickness you need to leave. but just be careful, to use a new one becuase those markers blunt, and make your line bigger.
 
Scheffeild's sells an edge scriber that works real well, you can also use it to mark the top of your bevel grind lines.
 

I use a cobalt lathe bit. You put the proper angle on it then lay your blade on a piece of tempered glass then slide the bit across your blade then flip the blade over then mark the other side.
They are not that expensive. You can have one bit for each thickness. I mark mine 1/8
5/32 3/16 etc with an electric engraver.

Bobby Branton
 
Somebody else came up with this ideal somewhere, I am going to try it. Take a piece of scrap bar stock about 1/2 inch thick and 1 in square. drill a hole in one square face down in one corner and epoxy a piece of scrap carbide or drill bit ground to a point in it so it sticks out a quarter of an inch or so. now grind one edge of the block till the scribe is 1/16 of an inch up and use that side to mark 1/8 steel, and grind the other edge to 3/32 and use that face to mark 3/16 steel. Just set the block with the appropriate face down on a flat surface and slide the knife edge by it.

seems logical to me, and easier than adjusting one all the time.

------------------
I love my country! I just don't trust my government!
 
I use the marker method also, seems to work fine for me.

------------------
T.L. Franklin
Frisco, TX

 
Hello,

A trick i learned working at Timberline knives years back was to Use an old engine Valve an sharpen the Beveled area and all you do it to Chuck it up in your Drill press
select a speed like 360rpm or faster.

Lay a flat piece of material on the work Table or Clamp in a drill press vise if you have one,, mark the edge of the Blade blank
with the above mentioned Felt marker or Dykem Blue machinest layout fluid.

Then all you have to do is set the height from the Table to the Valve face and lay your blade flat and Run edge along the valve, then flip blank to the other side and repeat the procedure,, gives you 2 perfectly
straight amd symetrical edge lines to grind to. And besides Used Valves are Free, go to any mechanic shop they`ll give ya one.


Hope this trick helps alittle,

Allen Blade
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top