Centerlines

G

gatorforge

Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
176
So I've bee making knives for a while and typically I will mark grind lines with about .04-.05 left and grind before HT to those, then finish my grind post HT by eye. While I can get it pretty damn close, it takes a lot more time and concentration during final grinding. Any suggestions to put on new center line post HT, or is the best option to grind everything post HT with a perfect centerline? Would love to hear any suggestions and opinions that can make my life easier.
 
Leave a flat spot to use as a reference. The ricaso, the handle, the flats. Something parallel and flat. Stick the flat on something flat and scribe a line.
 
Hi Gatorforge. I grind postheattreat and do my centerline then. I'll clean up the profile well and smooth, use Dykem or a black sharpie on the area for the centerline, scribe it and then grind to it at a 45 degree angle with a used belt. A used belt because I don't want to strip the grains off a new belt. Then it is just a matter of grinding your bevels to that centerline.
 
gatorforge said:
So I've bee making knives for a while and typically I will mark grind lines with about .04-.05 left and grind before HT to those, then finish my grind post HT by eye. While I can get it pretty damn close, it takes a lot more time and concentration during final grinding. Any suggestions to put on new center line post HT, or is the best option to grind everything post HT with a perfect centerline? Would love to hear any suggestions and opinions that can make my life easier.
Click to expand...
What kind of tool you use to mark grind lines to grind bevels before HT ? If tip is carbide you can use it to mark line on hardened steel ? I would mark ONE center line after HT , .04 is about 1mm. so one center line should be enough .
 
SS369 said:
Hi Gatorforge. I grind postheattreat and do my centerline then. I'll clean up the profile well and smooth, use Dykem or a black sharpie on the area for the centerline, scribe it and then grind to it at a 45 degree angle with a used belt. A used belt because I don't want to strip the grains off a new belt. Then it is just a matter of grinding your bevels to that centerline.
Click to expand...
I never do that and never have problem with my belts . On the contrary I seem to be able to grind a lot more knives compared to what I read on this forum how long does one belt last ?
 
I use Dykem to mark the edge before I scribe on the lines, so that doesn't matter if its pre or post ht. Typically I do the actual marking with calipers.

A.McPherson A.McPherson what do you typically use for your scribing? I believe that may be part of my issue, as I'm using calipers off the edge to run my railroad tracks now.
 
gatorforge said:
I use Dykem to mark the edge before I scribe on the lines, so that doesn't matter if its pre or post ht. Typically I do the actual marking with calipers.

A.McPherson A.McPherson what do you typically use for your scribing? I believe that may be part of my issue, as I'm using calipers off the edge to run my railroad tracks now.
Click to expand...
Look here

DIY edge marking tool . . .

I make them several of different type ............... 1.universal one , for scriber i used HSS steel . Little tricky to scribe but it work . 2. I like this one , for scriber i used broken carbide bits .That will mark edge easy on any hardened steel . I found some topic about this one and...
bladeforums.com bladeforums.com
 
ChristoDart ChristoDart That's actually perfect, thanks.

I guess the second part is, do most folks grind post heat treat? I just figured that would burn a lot more belts much more quickly.
 
With so many people using AEBL and it’s tendency to warp it seems many are grinding post heat treat. I started doing all post heat treat now and like it. If you have the right belts (ceramics), don’t strip off the grit as mentioned when setting your 45*s, and use a mist system I really enjoy post heat treat grinding.
 
My center line shows up after I grind the 45s by eye. Post heat treat.
 
I have half a dozen centerline scribers and I finally found one I really like. It is sold on EBAY (the only place I have found it) under the Item No. 203531304243 for $59.95. It's expensive but very easy to use. The only change I made was to put a nut on the center threaded shaft above the top disc. By tightening the nut after you have set the scribing distance, you positively lock the setting in place, instead of relying on the bronze thumb screw.
 
Iooks well built but I can say I use ability to measure with my height gauge much more than I expected.
 
gatorforge said:
I use Dykem to mark the edge before I scribe on the lines, so that doesn't matter if its pre or post ht. Typically I do the actual marking with calipers.

A.McPherson A.McPherson what do you typically use for your scribing? I believe that may be part of my issue, as I'm using calipers off the edge to run my railroad tracks now.
Click to expand...
I use Dykem or a sharpie, then I use a height guage on my surface plate.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top