Cerakote question

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Aug 11, 2024
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Hi guys. I'm new to the forum, which was why I posted this in the wrong area in the first place. I recently purchased a Peltonen M95. Excellent knife, but the site that I purchased it from apparently doesn't know what it's selling and said it was the teflon coated blade. It wasn't. It's uncoated carbon steel. Fortunately my coworker has his own Cerakote business and offer to coat it for me. While I doubt that the heat used will change the temper of the blade, I am a little worried about the synthetic rubber TPE handle. I did send an email to Peltonen, but haven't received a reply yet. If anyone has any experience with this, I'd appreciate the input. I think Cerakote does make an air dry coating, that just takes longer to cure, like days.
 
Welcome to blade forums P Poppgunn

They make a couple versions of the Ranger Puuko. I’m had one with the gray Teflon coating and another with a black coating. If you wanted to strip the Teflon it’s not that difficult ( happens with use as well ). I think the issue you may encounter would be removing the rubber from the tang. You can Google pics of the tang - looks like the handle has been molded pretty securely. I’m not an expert, don’t think you could cerakote the blade and heat it without removing the handle . There is definitely someone here with better knowledge than me.. they will chime in shortly.

You could just strip the blade and let the eventual patina take over - 80crv2 doesn’t rust nearly as fast as 01, 1095 or 52100 in my experience.

Those Ranger Puukos are GREAT by the way
 
Welcome to blade forums P Poppgunn

They make a couple versions of the Ranger Puuko. I’m had one with the gray Teflon coating and another with a black coating. If you wanted to strip the Teflon it’s not that difficult ( happens with use as well ). I think the issue you may encounter would be removing the rubber from the tang. You can Google pics of the tang - looks like the handle has been molded pretty securely. I’m not an expert, don’t think you could cerakote the blade and heat it without removing the handle . There is definitely someone here with better knowledge than me.. they will chime in shortly.

You could just strip the blade and let the eventual patina take over - 80crv2 doesn’t rust nearly as fast as 01, 1095 or 52100 in my experience.

Those Ranger Puukos are GREAT by the way
What about "forcing" the patina. I've looked into it and it seems like using a strong instant coffee is supposed to be about the safest.
 
Vinegar, citrus, coffee, red meat, mustard and hot sauce seem to work. I love a good patina. 80crv2 takes longer than I expected to develop any patina, regular use will lead you in that direction. I’ll post some pics momentarily
 
IMG_3639.jpeg

These 3 are 80crv2 - all pretty well used.

IMG_3641.jpeg

These have seen an equal amount of use. Left to right : 5160, 8670, S7, A2 and O1 steels

Patina and a little maintenance will keep problematic rust away. Looks nice as well. Unless you are using the Ranger Puuko in and around a lot of water, you’ll be fine. If you are in or around water - just dry and oil it.
 
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Your co-worker who does Cerakote should know you can lower the curing temp and extend the time.

This is common for polymer gun lowers, carbon fiber wrapped barrels, and other synthetics.

150°F-180°F to 3.5 & 3.0 hrs respectively should be fine, but I would confirm with whatever material your “handle” is made from.

I assume this is a fixed blade and the handle/scales cannot be remove or removed easily.

I’ve Cerakote just about anything and everything over the last 8-10 years.
 
That's exactly what he did. He used the air dry cerakote at about 100 degrees to avoid any humidity problems. Peltonen did respond and said that it should be safe upto about 175 degrees F. Turned out beautifully.
 
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