Ceramic Bench stone recommendations

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May 10, 2014
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18
Hello everyone,

I traditionally always used a norton combination oil stone on my working knives, but I want to explore other options. During lunch break last week myself and a fellow coworker were whittling to pass the time while the others ate ( We work in the Park & Rtecreational department for the City). And his blade got a little dull and he went to his trucks tool box and used the Spyderco Sharpmaker to touch up his blades.

Now I want to replace my old oil stone with a quality set of ceramic bench stones. What options do you guys recommend? The steel being sharpen would be Case's CV steel and later down the road GEC's 1095. I careless for very fine grit sizes that polishes blades to split hairs, Im looking in the sub$100 range.

Thanks
 
You didn't state the grit of you oil stone. You could add the Spyderco med. ceramic stone which is 600 grit.For 50$. It won't wear out in your lifetime. Or you could add a coarse and fine strop with two different slurries on each side of a hardwood board. This would take the edge up a step and only for 20$ or less. DM
 
You didn't state the grit of you oil stone. You could add the Spyderco med. ceramic stone which is 600 grit.For 50$. It won't wear out in your lifetime. Or you could add a coarse and fine strop with two different slurries on each side of a hardwood board. This would take the edge up a step and only for 20$ or less. DM

Unfortunately, I dont know the grit size on the stone; it just states coarse and fine sides from the Pike mfg co. I will look into the Spyderco med ceramic stone, what are your thoughts on the KME Ceramic stones I see they have a coarse stone and a med/fine stone?
 
You might also look into dmt diamond diafold sharpeners, you can usually find them for around $40.
 
If your oil stone has the color of burnt orange on one side and brown to grey on the other. That is a fine India which should give you a shaving edge coming off that. Provided your technique is good. The fine side is 320 grit. I only have experience with the Spyderco ceramic stone. So, I cannot comment on the other. Having this fine India stone and provided it is cleaned a strop should pick up your blades level of sharpness. Giving you an even finer, cleaner edge. DM
 
Neither of the steels you mention are difficult to sharpen on that stone. It can easily give you a nice fine edge. DM
 
I added a Spyderco ceramic bench stone to supplement my Norton IB8. I use it when I want a more refined edge that I can get on my Norton.

Ric
 
Phyd, which grit ceramic stone did you purchase?
Have you tried stropping after the IB8 stone? DM
 
I added a Spyderco ceramic bench stone to supplement my Norton IB8. I use it when I want a more refined edge that I can get on my Norton.

Ric

This is my current freehand setup. IB8 plus a spyderco 302F bench stone.
 
Hello everyone,

I traditionally always used a norton combination oil stone on my working knives, but I want to explore other options. During lunch break last week myself and a fellow coworker were whittling to pass the time while the others ate ( We work in the Park & Rtecreational department for the City). And his blade got a little dull and he went to his trucks tool box and used the Spyderco Sharpmaker to touch up his blades.

Now I want to replace my old oil stone with a quality set of ceramic bench stones. What options do you guys recommend? The steel being sharpen would be Case's CV steel and later down the road GEC's 1095. I careless for very fine grit sizes that polishes blades to split hairs, Im looking in the sub$100 range.
Thanks

That bolded part above^^ suggests you likely wouldn't need ceramics at all. If you just want to try them, that's fine. But, for the desired edge finish you describe, on the steels mentioned, the 'fine' side of an oil stone is virtually ideal. You might look into picking up a SiC (silicon carbide) oil stone, such as a Norton 'Crystolon' or Norton's 'Economy' stone (6") found at Home Depot. Equivalent stones of other sizes could be found at Ace Hardware, in 4"/6"/8" sizes (they carry a small pocket stone, at ~3" or so, in the same material as well). All of the hardware-store versions of these can be had for ~$10-$12 or less (the 6" stones run ~$6-$8 or so).

You could also use silicon carbide wet/dry sandpaper on a hard backing like glass, or over your existing oil stone, in ~320-400 grit or so, even up to ~600. Over a glass backing, it very closely emulates the performance and feel of a SiC oil stone. SiC works great on the mentioned steels; I've really liked the edges produced by my SiC stones' 'fine' side, on my Case CV and Schrade 1095 blades. Some green compound on leather (such as a belt) is an easy way to clean up the burrs and finish up the edge, after the SiC stone.

Ceramic hones can work well for quick touch-ups on edges that are still relatively sharp, and they're often used in pursuit of those polished, 'hair-splitting' edges; they have their place in sharpening. They're not very good for creating entirely new edges, or repairing heavy edge damage, because they're not aggressive enough to remove heavier amounts of metal efficiently, without clogging the hones (they'll get VERY SLOW). This is where a two-sided (C/F) SiC stone really shines, because they're very fast and not prone to clogging; can be used dry, with oil or water (or water + dish soap), and will still perform pretty consistently. This makes them almost perfect for on-the-go touch-ups or even complete re-bevelling, with a minimum of hassle.

From my own uses, the 4" SiC stone available at Ace Hardware is a perfect companion for maintaining folder-sized blades in the steels found in traditional pocketknives, such as the Case and GEC knives (and Schrade, Buck, Boker and many others). And I'll likely pick up that 3" pocket SiC stone from Ace, next time I'm running errands in that neighborhood. ;)


David
 
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DM,

I have the fine Spyderco stone. And yes, I do strop my knives after using the Norton. Most of my sharpening is done using the Norton. I can easily get a reliable working edge with it. Got the ceramic to see if up my sharpening a notch.

Ric
 
Ok, just experimenting.
Tiguuy, I've always admired you making those stone holders. Which gives unlimited angles. DM
 
My jig will also hold DMT 4x10 "stones", Pinnacle honing plates (tape to 0.3 microns), and Heavy Handed's washboard. I can set the angle to a tenth of a degree.View attachment 500341
 
That is just too cool. I use a head set like yours as well. They allow both hands free. DM
 
Thanks for all the comments everyone. Also what are your opinions, if I added a soft arkansas stone to supplement my coarse/fine india oilstone? Is that a good progression between the two stones? And for daily maintanance should I strop it or use a steel to relign the edge between sharpenings? I apologize for the newbie type questions.

Thank you
 
I have 2 Norton Triangular Prism sharpeners suspended over oil baths. 1 runs coarse, medium, and fine composed of Crystalon, Crystalon, and Fine India Stones. These are Carborundum (Silicon Carbide) and Corundum (Aluminum Oxide). The other holds natural stones composed of microcrystalline quartz deposited in an ancient sea bed. These are Washita, soft Arkansas, and hard black Arkansas. The dimensions are 11 1/2" X 2 1/2" X 1/2".
The object of moving to finer stones is to eliminate the scratches of the last stone you used. If you make too big of a jump in grit size, it takes a long time to remove the coarser scratches. So get a magnifying glass and experiment.
Some like a toothy edge which cuts with a sawing motion. Others like a polished edge which cuts with a pushing motion. The latter requires a little more time and effort.
 
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