Ceramic vs Diamond for Touch-ups?

J

JMFWSU

Joined
Apr 23, 2002
Messages
181
Hi,

Would ceramic or diamond be best to touch-up an already sharp knife? Specifically, I am considering either a spyderco ceramic stone or a DMT dia or duosharp stone. The blade steel would be CMP154 and S30V.

Just curious if one has more advantages that outweigh the other.

Thanks,
Jason
 
My thoughts are ceramic would be better for an already sharp knife that you want to clean up a little. For one that's really been dulled, I use a diamond stone.

I personally think a diamond stone would fit your needs better in the long run, if you really use your knife a lot. If you don't use them for long, extended periods then go with the ceramic.
 
You shouldn't need to get a burr for a touchup. With that either one would be fine for a touchup. It really depends on what kind of finish you like for your edges. Pick the one that fits that the best.
 
IMO, for touch-ups, the Spyderco ceramic stones (like the $15 204UF1 triangle rod) would be prefer over the DMT DiaSharps.

Or a leather strop, either bare or with some 1~3 micron Diamond/CBN solution.
 
JMFWSU said:
Do diamond stones produce less of a burr than ceramics?
Click to expand...

In a word, YES. I sort of view those two as being at opposite ends of the burr-prone spectrum. Used with a light touch, a diamond hone in EF or EEF will leave the edge a lot cleaner, with much fewer strokes and less work, as compared to using a ceramic hone to a similar level of finish. Think ~ 1 - 3 passes to freshen up an already pretty sharp edge on a diamond hone, versus a ceramic, where you'll spend more time, both in acquiring the same level of sharpness and also in chasing burrs that develop, and making sure they're cleaned up. And, if the edge isn't very sharp to begin with, the diamond hone will work much, much better and faster to reset the bevels and shape a crisp apex.

Having said all that, when you do develop a light & steady touch with the diamond hone, it'll pay off in better results with ceramics and other types of hones/stones. You'll still need to watch for burrs with the ceramics, and deal with them as they come up. With the diamond hone and a good touch, burrs almost become a non-issue entirely, by contrast.


David
 
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depends which steel and its HT. i havent used anything besides 3M lapping film and a strop to touch up my cpm-154 that i acquired last year. i could probably get away with just using the strop with compound for touch ups tbo. id probably use my fine ceramic stone for touch up's if i didnt have those... but alas i have not tried it yet.
 
For touch ups I like the 3 dollar Smiths ceramic.
When new they are ok stones but when lapped flat with silicon carbide grit they become great stones for the money.

I usually do a 80/120/220 progression on them.
I've yet to try the higher grits on one but may try to take one to 600 or 800 and see how it performs.
 
willc said:
For touch ups I like the 3 dollar Smiths ceramic.
When new they are ok stones but when lapped flat with silicon carbide grit they become great stones for the money.

I usually do a 80/120/220 progression on them.
I've yet to try the higher grits on one but may try to take one to 600 or 800 and see how it performs.
Click to expand...

i too use those $3 smiths ceramics. great little stone for touchups.
 
Mo2 said:
i too use those $3 smiths ceramics. great little stone for touchups.
Click to expand...

They are great for the price and I think it performs as well as the Spyderco fine but with less real estate.
 
When I was a kid I watched my Grandmother use the un-glazed bottom of her china plates to sharpen her knives. I've been hooked on ceramic rods for touch ups since.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I'm thinking about trying the sharpmaker, but it seems like it would be best if using a microlevel.
 
I use my ceramics for finishing my sharpening process or for touch ups. I also use them if im doing a microbevel.
 
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