CG V edge sharpening technique

rega25

rega25

Joined
Jul 9, 2010
Messages
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What do you all use to sharpen V grinds on the Cg models. Leather strop if it isnt too dull? I know the strop is more for convex, just wanted some input on V edges, Thanks
 
sharpmaker. the edges tend to be between 30-40 degrees.


or an edge pro if i really want to make it pretty. but normally a sharpmaker for touch ups.
 
Edge Pro here now, as well, Just got one, well worth the money. I can do it free hand, but the Edge Pro is like easy-mode sharpening.

I still strop V edges, usually just naked leather though.
 
For V edges I much prefer the large japanese wet stones in different grades and then polishing with a nagura stone slurry .... the reason is that by using a free hand technique you get a clean stroke on the knife .... the Edge Pro and other similar pivotal systems mean you can only do a bit of the edge at a time if you want to keep the angle consistant .... so when you come to testing the edge then yes it is very sharp but as you cut through paper there can be a hang up where strokes have ended and new ones begun .... you can eliminate these with stropping but that convexes the shoulder of the V grind slightly .... no harm in that though .... infact it is an improvement .... but for true perfection on the edge the sharpening needs to be done in a single stroke IMO .... and when done like that the skill base you build up using a free hand technique has you able to touch up the edge in the field without needing to worry about lugging needlessly large systems with you.

Of the systems that exist for ease of touch up sharpening as opposed to re-profiling .... I much prefer the Sharpmaker .... it is a system which enables one full and smooth pass on the edge and because of the vertical nature of holding the blade is very consistant. Personally though I just use the rounded triangular edges and not the flats on the sharp maker .... you just need to go gently once you have a near perfect edge and then finish with a little stropping.

When I started sharpening as a boy I used stones and free hand and got no-where because the angles I was holding the knife at were effectively requiring a re-profile of the edge .... the important thing to get right on free hand technique is that removing a lot of stock to change a very obtuse edge to a shallower and sharper edge angle means you need the very coarse diamond stones .... life is too short for reprofiling with grits designed to just clean up a dull edge.

When you figure out that a lot of your Busse knives might want to be re-profiled .... that is when you start to see the merits of using a belt sander .... there are plenty of threads on here about using them .... but they are something to go for when you have the other skills off pat and are happy using free handed strokes. Jump too soon at these and knives will be worn away whilst you sort out technique .... or ... just get some cheap machetes to practise with to develop technique ....

The only V edges I really keep as V edges are Scandi grinds .... most of the others benefit from stropping as it is the quickest and best method to re-align the edge apex without needlessly removing stock .... and the re-alignment of the edge due to it rolling slightly when cutting in one direction and using only one hand ( alternating hands alternates the sides of the edge and can infact straighten out a rolled edge ) is VERY common. Mostly because we tend to go for angles that cut better and take better edges .... just like a barber strops his razor for the very same reason .... so do we need to strop an edge if we are carving or whittling a lot and the edge is a fine one .... it will roll and feel akin to a dull edge .... it is'nt dull ... it just rolled a bit .... if you keep sharpening an edge which has simply rolled .... your lifetime of use is going to be a lot less than it ought to be.

All the above I have learned the hard way and have the cocked up knives to prove it ... but now I reckon I can do an edge as good as I want them .... there is no magic answer in a machine that gives fixed angles .... not if you don't know how to touch up the edge in the field.
 
Skrapmetal said:
I still strop V edges, usually just naked leather though.
Click to expand...

Same here. I sharpen with various methods - EdgePro, ceramic stick, freehand on stones or diamond sharpeners, and some convex edges. I think most any edge can benefit from a little strop time afterwards.
 
MORIMOTOM said:
sharpmaker. the edges tend to be between 30-40 degrees.


or an edge pro if i really want to make it pretty. but normally a sharpmaker for touch ups.
Click to expand...

Sharpmaker here too, it's quick and does a nice job.
 
Another vote for Sharpmaker. Stone simple to use. Even when I use the belt grinder to sharpen, I often finish with the Sharpmaker to put on a microbevel.
 
+1 on the paper wheels. i have ran a factory edge over the slotted wheel and made it scream. even a thick factory edge can be made to shave easily with them.
 
so many choices. ill have to do some serious research i guess, didnt think there were that many options, thanks again everyone. I've got a fever, and the only prescription, is more INFI.
 
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