Change hole pattern in Mule tangs?

EIDO · Jan 19, 2013

I'd like to see a change in the pattern of the holes in the tangs of the Mule series to accommodate some more conventional bolt and lanyard hole layouts.
Thoughts?

yablanowitz · Jan 20, 2013

My thought on the subject is: Leave them alone. As it stands, scales made for one should fit them all. Make a change and that is no longer the case.

Minibear464 · Jan 20, 2013

The way I see it, the only benefit would be your knife looks more conventional, as you put it. Personally, I'm not bothered by the placement of pins as it is now. In my opinion, there's no real advantages, other than preference for the layout of pins and such. The change would not allow one to use other scales on the mules, since each knife has different sizes, handles, and pin layouts. So to change them would be to merely alter the aesthetics. As yablanowitz mentioned, it would harm those who have already purchased custom scales for their mules.

BladeScout · Jan 20, 2013

Im not chainging the hole pattern on my Mule per se.
I do how ever plan to widen two of the holes slightly to accomodate titanium chain ring bolts.
Here is my titanium Mission MPU with homemade carbon fiber handle (I havent gotten around to the Mule yet, but after drilling the titanium, the Mule will pose no problems).
Two holes were drilled slightly bigger, as the titanium chain ring bolts dont fit the standard holes.

The Suminagashi Mule is next (unless I change my mind

)

Tinbasher · Jan 20, 2013

I would like to see how you go with that, dropped a customers mule onto a piece of Aluminium and it snapped in two.
It only dropped about 6"
They did replace it for him.
Richard

BladeScout · Jan 20, 2013

Tinbasher said:
I would like to see how you go with that

If that was meant for me, it should pose no problem what to ever to slightly widen two of the holes in the Suminagashi mule.
We are talking less than a millimeter.

Tinbasher said:
....dropped a customers mule onto a piece of Aluminium and it snapped in two.
It only dropped about 6"
They did replace it for him.
Richard

Which steel?

There are many different Mules.

What did Spyderco offer in way of explanation for the occurrence - they usually have splendid CS & feedback?

+ the company seems to be genuinely interested in any rare failures in order to improve the product and/or avoid similar failures from happening.

9blades · Jan 20, 2013

yablanowitz said:
My thought on the subject is: Leave them alone. As it stands, scales made for one should fit them all. Make a change and that is no longer the case.

:thumbup:

JNewell · Jan 20, 2013

EIDO said:
I'd like to see a change in the pattern of the holes in the tangs of the Mule series to accommodate some more conventional bolt and lanyard hole layouts.
Thoughts?

Might have been a good idea before the first, or maybe for #2 at the latest. (In fact, there was a minor change in the diameter of some of the holes between #1 and #2.) At this point, it's a horrible idea

because there are way too many knifes out there with the current pattern.

Tinbasher · Jan 20, 2013

BladeScout said:
If that was meant for me, it should pose no problem what to ever to slightly widen two of the holes in the Suminagashi mule.
We are talking less than a millimeter.

Which steel?

There are many different Mules.

What did Spyderco offer in way of explanation for the occurrence - they usually have splendid CS & feedback?

+ the company seems to be genuinely interested in any rare failures in order to improve the product and/or avoid similar failures from happening.

Hi, not having a go at anyone just interested how it will drill.
Can't remember what steel type it was but it cracked right across the Spydie hole and that was lazer cut after the blade was hardened causing a weak spot.

Richard

yablanowitz · Jan 21, 2013

The only one I've heard of that happening on was the ZDP-189. As I recall, several of them broke while people were putting handles on them, and the final consensus was they were too hard for a fixed blade. Personally, I didn't have any problem with mine.

BladeScout · Jan 21, 2013

Tinbasher said:
Hi, not having a go at anyone just interested how it will drill.
Can't remember what steel type it was but it cracked right across the Spydie hole and that was lazer cut after the blade was hardened causing a weak spot.

Richard

I didnt perceive your previous post as 'having a go at anyone,' I dont know how you got that impression.
I merely was interested in details, as I found it vague just to say a Mule broke period.
There are many Mules and I was just interested in which steel and how it broke.
You told me. Thanks:thumbup:

yablanowitz said:
The only one I've heard of that happening on was the ZDP-189. As I recall, several of them broke while people were putting handles on them, and the final consensus was they were too hard for a fixed blade. Personally, I didn't have any problem with mine.

Interesting. I never heard of any problems with the ZDP-189. So far only heard positive comments from users. You learn something new every day. Thanks for elaborating on the post about Mule steel and one breaking.

phillipsted · Jan 21, 2013

BladeScout said:
Interesting. I never heard of any problems with the ZDP-189. So far only heard positive comments from users. You learn something new every day. Thanks for elaborating on the post about Mule steel and one breaking.

Evidently the first run of the ZDP-189 Mules came in extremely hard - and turned out fairly brittle. I have one of the early ones and a later one which was released with a slightly lower RC value. Both perform very well for me - and sharpened up nicely (but not quickly!

) However, I'm not subjecting them to hard use around the house.

TedP

duro · Jan 21, 2013

I'd like to see jimping on all of spyderco's fixed blades.

phillipsted · Jan 22, 2013

I see no real reason to change the hole patterns in the Mules. This would cause compatibility problems with older blades - and this doesn't support the whole objective of the Mule program.

If you want to custom-fit some bolts, I would recommend using a carbide reamer to enlarge the existing holes - although this could be tough sledding on some Mules...

TedP

JNewell · Jan 22, 2013

phillipsted said:
I see no real reason to change the hole patterns in the Mules. This would cause compatibility problems with older blades - and this doesn't support the whole objective of the Mule program.

If you want to custom-fit some bolts, I would recommend using a carbide reamer to enlarge the existing holes - although this could be tough sledding on some Mules...

TedP

BTDT on MT01 and have the broken and burned tooling to prove it.

BladeScout · Jan 22, 2013

phillipsted said:
Evidently the first run of the ZDP-189 Mules came in extremely hard - and turned out fairly brittle. I have one of the early ones and a later one which was released with a slightly lower RC value. Both perform very well for me - and sharpened up nicely (but not quickly! ) However, I'm not subjecting them to hard use around the house.

TedP

Thanks. Good to know. It wont deter me from buying a ZDP-189 either. I like the knives for other qualities.

phillipsted said:
I see no real reason to change the hole patterns in the Mules. This would cause compatibility problems with older blades - and this doesn't support the whole objective of the Mule program.

If you want to custom-fit some bolts, I would recommend using a carbide reamer to enlarge the existing holes - although this could be tough sledding on some Mules...

TedP

Dont remind me

Just drilled my BETA ti MPU to enlarge the handle holes and you could virtually hear the drill groan

Managed to fit chain ring bolts with not much drama though.