I've got a Buck 373 stockman pattern, and I often use the main clip blade for fruits on the go. I find that the blade binds on firmer materials like apples and mangoes etc. I'm thinking it's the hollow grind that's causing the binding, and I'm wondering if anyone out there has reprofiled a hollow grind into a flat grind? And how would you do it? With a stone?
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Changing a hollow ground knife into a flat ground knife?
- Thread starter Mora2013
- Start date
I reground my Scoutlite to a flat grind from hollow. Iused a belt sander and 80 or 12p grit belt. That knife was very old though. If your knife is relatively new, try lowering the edge angle first. You may not be able to get a flat grind to fit inside a hollow grind on a new knife.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,442
With apples especially, I've found a hollow to be better; and a very THIN hollow to be best. I've had more of those binding issues with relatively thick flat or convexed blade grinds (apples are the only thing my Opinels don't cut as well, for this specific reason). The two best apple slicers I have are a Case stainless Sod Buster Jr. and an older Buck 'BUCKLITE' folder, both with very thin hollow grinds that extend almost the full width of the blade, to just below the spine.
For your Buck 373, I'm thinking it's sort of a saber-hollow grind (thick, flat portion above the hollow; like pic below)? I have a newer Buck 301 with a similar grind; it's fairly thick in the portion near the spine. If so, you might try just easing the 'shoulders' of the hollow grind, where they meet the flat portion above it. Rounding off or thinning those shoulders a bit might be enough to make a difference. The 'hollow' of the blade's grind prevents the vacuum effect that makes some foods cling & bind against the blade, when cutting.
David
Last edited:
I've done this to a Spyderco native with nothing but elbow grease and a coarse grit diamond stone. It took a long time and I burned up the stone but I loved how the blade turned out. About a month later a pallet was dropped on it at work and now the pivot rivet is to tight so it's virtually a fixed blade. If I was you I would invest in a power tool for the job unless you like spending hours in front of the TV at night making back and forth motions ;-).
I think the work sharp should be able to do this for not that expensive (respectively) of an investment.
I think the work sharp should be able to do this for not that expensive (respectively) of an investment.
I know this is a late reply, but thank you to Obsessed.
My buck 373 has gone quite a while before needing its first stone sharpening which I did last weekend. A ceramic rod is all that was needed previously. It was finally time to get a chip out of the spey blade, and while I took care of that, I also 'eased' the shoulders of the clip blade which I use for food most often.
It cuts through harder fruits so much easier now. I should have done this much sooner!
My buck 373 has gone quite a while before needing its first stone sharpening which I did last weekend. A ceramic rod is all that was needed previously. It was finally time to get a chip out of the spey blade, and while I took care of that, I also 'eased' the shoulders of the clip blade which I use for food most often.
It cuts through harder fruits so much easier now. I should have done this much sooner!
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,442
Last edited: