Hello. I am planning on taking my Griptillian apart to change out the handle. This will be my first time opening up the Griptillian. I was wondering if anyone with experience on changing out handles of Griptillian could list all the tools (screw driver sizes etc.) neccesary for the operation. And will there be any parts that might pop out or recommend keeping track of? I assume it boils down to few screws and maybe washers but I do not know how the Axis lock is situated and would like to be cautious. How hard is the process on a scale of 1 to 5 (1 being very simple/ 5 being hard)? Last but not least, is there any recommendations to what I could do to the parts when I disassemble the knife? For instance, is there any screws which could benifit from lock-tite (glue) etc. ? Or is it better to leave things as is? I am use to applying loc-tite on my Balisongs, but I am not sure if this knife could benefit from such application. Thanks in advance~
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Changing Griptillian handle...
- Thread starter 쌍칼잡이
- Start date
You need torx drivers in T10 and T6. No real particular order, but I remove the pocket clip (T6 - 3 screws), remove the blade pivot screw and push out the pivot (T10). The blade can be removed and keep track of the bronze washers (2). Sometimes one will stay stuck against the liner.
After the blade is out and clip is off, you can begin to remove the handles. Remove the 3 screws along the spine (T6) and them remove the 2 screws from each side of the handles, 4 total (T6), at this pont the knife scales (handles) can be pulled off.
If you are installing aftermarket scales, this is as far as you need to go with the disassembly. No need to remove the axis lock from the liners. No springs will pop out. Keep track of all the screws and the washers. Do not over torque the screws upon reassembly. Reverse the process for reassembly.
I use a little blue locktite on all screws. The pivot pin needs it the most to properly adjust blade tension.
One a scale from 1-5, I would rate it a 2.
Good luck.
After the blade is out and clip is off, you can begin to remove the handles. Remove the 3 screws along the spine (T6) and them remove the 2 screws from each side of the handles, 4 total (T6), at this pont the knife scales (handles) can be pulled off.
If you are installing aftermarket scales, this is as far as you need to go with the disassembly. No need to remove the axis lock from the liners. No springs will pop out. Keep track of all the screws and the washers. Do not over torque the screws upon reassembly. Reverse the process for reassembly.
I use a little blue locktite on all screws. The pivot pin needs it the most to properly adjust blade tension.
One a scale from 1-5, I would rate it a 2.
Good luck.
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,409
Good advice from Elite_KG -
I had a bit of trouble getting the washers aligned and with the blade pivot hole when re-assembling, but with a little finagling it went back together.
Youtube has several videos on the subject - this one is not mine, but it is every good imo -
[youtube]SHMWDN5evDg[/youtube]
best
mqqn
I had a bit of trouble getting the washers aligned and with the blade pivot hole when re-assembling, but with a little finagling it went back together.
Youtube has several videos on the subject - this one is not mine, but it is every good imo -
[youtube]SHMWDN5evDg[/youtube]
best
mqqn
A quick tip to align the washers is to set them on the blade and hold them to the blade by pinching. Put the blade and washers in the front of the knife while holding back on the axis lock just a bit. Once the blade ans washer are in and near in place, but not lined up; if you can see through each wahser and the tang of the knife all you need to do is take a small tool similar to the size of a toolpth pick and put it through all three holes. Move the tool in a circle around the edges of the pivot hole and it will push the washers in place and align all three close enough to stab the pivot pin.
It can take some practice and everyone has their own way.
It can take some practice and everyone has their own way.
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,409
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2012
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- 1,792
The biggest thing to watch out for is the omega springs on the Axis Lock. Be very careful when removing/re-installing the lock bar portion so as no to damage and/or break them.
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2002
- Messages
- 2,624
Above is Good advice. Also remember that the pivot bolt (female) is a D shaped bolt and not round. I believe that the flat part is faced down.
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2001
- Messages
- 5,442
My procedure for getting the blade in is a little different then Elite_KG's.
So here's another perspective.
With the scales on, but with all of the scale and clip screws loose.
I insert the pivot just enough into the pivot hole so it extends just beyond the inner surface of the liner.
Just enough to hold a washer on.
I hold the axis bar back and manipulate the washer onto the little bit of pivot sicking through the liner.
Then I put the blade in place.
I use the pivot hole to visually help me align the hole in the blade with the pivot.
Once aligned I push the pivot a bit more so it enters the blade.
At this point I can let go of the axis bar; because the blade is now holding the lock bar back for me.
I work the last washer into place & push the pivot all the way in.
Sometimes a little blade wiggling, with a very light inward pressure on pivot is required.
Put the pivot screw on and your done.
So here's another perspective.
With the scales on, but with all of the scale and clip screws loose.
I insert the pivot just enough into the pivot hole so it extends just beyond the inner surface of the liner.
Just enough to hold a washer on.
I hold the axis bar back and manipulate the washer onto the little bit of pivot sicking through the liner.
Then I put the blade in place.
I use the pivot hole to visually help me align the hole in the blade with the pivot.
Once aligned I push the pivot a bit more so it enters the blade.
At this point I can let go of the axis bar; because the blade is now holding the lock bar back for me.
I work the last washer into place & push the pivot all the way in.
Sometimes a little blade wiggling, with a very light inward pressure on pivot is required.
Put the pivot screw on and your done.
- Joined
- May 18, 1999
- Messages
- 1,709
When changing the scales, nothing needs to be done with the lock bar or omega springs.
Thank you all, for the guide! I will definitely come back to this thread once I find the custom handle I like. It seems like there are few members of this site that makes great handles for the Griptillian. Infact, some of their works were much more interesting than the few customizable handles from few online companies. Thanks again fellas.