Changing the blade shape of a Kershaw Skyline

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DedRok

Joined
Sep 2, 2011
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This is a Kershaw Skyline. I want to change the design of the bladeshape by getting rid of the "black area" on the blade. (This is the steel that is visible while the knife is closed by the way)

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I was just wondering what the best way about doing this at home would be? I've never done this before...

Is a grinding wheel a good idea?

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I find your proposal very interesting. Please post pictures when it's done. Of course, you probably shouldn't call it a skyline when you are finished, since you will ruin that ruler-straight line along the back of the knife that is the hallmark of the design (that's no criticism, by the way).
 
That steel is removed very easily.
A bench grinder is fine, just be carefull!
Use a sharpie to draw the shape you want and start at the part that has the most mat'l to remove so you can see how fast it comes off.
Leave yourself a little bit of stock and finish by hand working with diamond stones.
I re-shaped the blade of a Leek this way and it turned out pretty well.View attachment 326254
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359005227.790912.jpg

Good luck and post pics when you finish.
 
Thanks guys, I'll see what I can do... I might do this at my brothers as he has a much better shop than mine. I'm kind of worried how I can do this safely without a blade flying up and hitting me in the face.

I plan to cut it, polish the edges, and then probably paint it black. I might try to add jimping on the top too... kind of like a 0780.

I also wanna carve a bit a bit out of the G10 so the stop pin could be used as a thumb stud better. I'll come back to this thread for any questions.

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I'll try to get work in progress pictures by this weekend. I don't really care if I end up ruining this knife but rather learn something from it. If I like it enough, I'll pay my brother to machine another one at his work... that way he could see exactly how i'd like it done.
 
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I've ground down a few blades with a bench grinder. The only tips I can give you are either use the tool rests with a very firm hold or take the guards off and use the wheel at about the 7-8 o'clock position (which I prefer) I've never hade a blade shoot off the grinding wheel either even with a fairly loose hold. You could even dull the edge and tape up the blade for added safety.
 
A little primitive, but couldn't you use a file?

It might take a bit of patience, but you don't run the risk of ruining the heat treat.

Taping the blade might still be a good idea, at least the edge.

Allen
 
You probably know, but the thumbstuds are the stop pins, so if you carved away the G10 they might not work.
 
I think he meant to carve them out where your thumb would be, not where the blade stop is. So that you can access them and use them as thumb studs easier.
 
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