Cheap digital height guage for marking grind lines

[ashwinearl]

I have been using some cheap digital calipers for marking grind lines. The calipers are great all around for shop tasks and measuring pins and do ok for marking the initial grind lines. But the lines always seem to go out of parallel closer to the tip.

I've wanted a height gauge but can justify the expense for a nice one. I've seen these cheap ones ($17-$30) an wondering if anyone has used one for this specific task. I have not tried the drill bit technique. I sort of like calculating desired thickness, like 0.030" subtracted from the blade thickness divided by two and set that exact amount on the caliper...not that I ever even come close to grinding to it, but it is the thought that counts.

 

[Aidenag]

Don't think i'd buy the one in the photo, as it's got waaay too much plastic, and seems to be missing the carbide tip that you want in one.

I'd just skip the digital and get a better quality dial height guage for not much more honestly. the Grizzly G9618 isn't nearly cheap as it used to be(Thanks Private bone spurs!) but is only like $40 and change and does a great job. I've had one for 5 years now, and it works fine. I know a dozen+ makers using the same one. From beginners to mastersmiths. Add a granite surface plate and your all set for under $100.

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-Dial-Height-Gauge-6-/G9618

 

[scott kozub]

I've never used a height gauge but have been looking at them. I use drill bit. If you have index bits and a vernier you can accuratly get the thickness you want. I just use a cheapy close to the thickness of the steel im using.

As for that gauge, as long as it holds its spot it should work. My biggest concern with the cheap ones would be the scribe being too soft and rounding over. The good ones are carbide and likely scribe a much cleaner more defined line.

 

[Matt Rochester]

I took a lathe bit and ground a point at my desired height. I use a lot of .100” stock. I like my edges at .010”. The bit is square so I grind the point on it at .040”. Dykem the edge, lay blade and bit on flat surface and scribe both sides. This leaves roughly 020” on the edge and I can work it down from there.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Use a drill bit.

Pick one a tad larger or smaller than 1/2 the steel thickness. About .003 more or less is perfect, but it doesn't matter exactly.
Lay it on a flat surface.
Hold it down with one hand while drawing the steel along the point with the other.
Flip the steel over and repeat.
You will have two parallel lines a bit apart. Grind to these two lines to create the bevels evenly.

 

[Adam Buttry]

Personally, I wouldn't purchase the height gauge you posted. Aidenag's suggestion of the Grizzly 6" dial, would be my suggestion as well. I could not get by without mine.

 

[Carterwhopkins]

Yes to the Grizzly, and a good reference surface. The Grizzly granite plates are not expensive and once in a while, they offer free shipping on them. In this photo, I am marking buffalo horn for handle spacers and endcaps, very handy tool.....many additional uses other than scribing blades.

 

[tmerkl]

I also have the grizzly one. I used drill bits and sheffield knife supply sells one made of brass that I used for a while. They all worked, the height gauge is just so much easier.

 

[john april]

i use the $39 analog dial model from shars, works fine and comes with carbide tip. i also use the $7.99 granite 12x12" floor tile from home depot because i heard they are cut with a saw and very flat. so far so good.

 

[Drew Riley]

I bought the $50ish dollar one from iGaging. It’s built decently, but it doesn’t have a carbide tip. It’s hardened, but not terribly sharp, and if scribing hard blades, it leaves a pretty light line. I might see about putting a carbide tip on it eventually.

 

[HSC ///]

In general you might want to consider where you are going with your knifemaking. Then buy the best tools you can afford. Good Tools make u more efficient and improve your process and help make u money. Cheap tools are generally a waste of money imo. Especially ones with moving parts. There is an spi with dial used on ebay to consider.

 

[bmilleker]

I bought the $50ish dollar one from iGaging. It’s built decently, but it doesn’t have a carbide tip. It’s hardened, but not terribly sharp, and if scribing hard blades, it leaves a pretty light line. I might see about putting a carbide tip on it eventually.

I have this one as well and have rounded the edge of the scribe. Scribing on a hardened blade over and over wore it down. I just bought the grizzly model to replace it.