Check my sharpen job please

K

kraash

Joined
May 26, 2010
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This is an H&B forge tomahawk. I'm having a hard time getting it to shaving sharp (the goal). Do I need to lose more in the cheeks?

 
Looks like you have a 30 degree inclusive edge, so that's pretty acute. How are you sharpening it?
 
Constant Gardener said:
Are to getting a burr to form?
Click to expand...

Not that I can feel.

I'm using the lanky puck

I built a angle gage out of wood with a protractor and it fits in the supposed 20' side but I think you might be right about an acute end... But where do I go from here?
 
If you need it to be shaving sharp, I'd sharpen it like a knife blade on regular stones. Start with a coarse stone and create a burr along both sides of the entire edge. Then remove the burr by going to ever finer grits and ever lighter pressure -- all while maintaining a consistent angle.

The Lansky Puck is 180 grit on one side and 280 grit on the other. Both of those are pretty coarse, and the puck is not the ideal shape to create super fine edges.

I'd take it to at least 400-600 grit. You might even strop it at the end. But make sure you raise and properly remove the burr.
 
I can get my axes to cut newspaper with a Lansky, might not be shaving sharp but sharp enough for me to use the tool.
 
But you can't really get a burr on both sides at once right? Should I thin it out with files first ?
 
It looks like you're close. The burr forms on the apex and leans off the apex and away from the bevel that you are sharpening. So you raise a full burr on one side, then sharpen the other side until you get a burr along the full length of the edge on that side, too. If a burr doesn't form quickly, alternate the sides you're sharpening so you keep your edge centered.

Once you've created the burr on both sides with your coarse stones, then gradually remove the burr by sharpening with ever finer stones and ever lighter pressure.

You can feel the burr with your finger tips.
 
Does it cut paper without tearing? No? Then use the coarse grit. This removes a lot of material so be sure of your angle and go light.

Now remember, at each sharpening stage you have to double or triple the time on the stone. Once the coarse gets you to cutting paper then move on to medium, 400 grit or so. The pressure you use is always light, most beginners don't realise this.

Then go fine, 800-1000 grit. And then hone 2000+. And finally, you should strop. Remember that at this step you drag at a slightly higher angle than with the stones. Each step makes the burr smaller, and then finally removes it. It's a lot of steps, but once you do them you shouldn't be back to coarse for a long time, basically you can hone and strop to just maintain that edge.

You can get it to shaving sharp right away but it will be a bastard on your arm because of the burr. Remember that you can inexpensively add to your grits with wet/dry sandpaper (or micro-abrasive paper), carpet tape, and blocks of wood.

Also, what technique do you use? I always liked this technique (at end of video, and a few other parts):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcoTnER4Efg

Notice the light pressure. Use a circular motion and then near the end take a couple swipes along the edge to reduce the burr.
 
Another vote for just sharpening it like a knife. The puck will make an axe sharp enough to do a lot of the things they are typically used for and it's convenient to take with you, but if you're looking for shaving sharp, no.
 
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