Checkering Files?

[L6steel]

I noticed in the Feb issue of Blade mag a pic of one of Kit's folders and it has some real crisp traction grooves cut into the spine of the blade and he said he uses a checkering file for this. If you look close at the pic you can see the top of each ridge is slightly rounded.
I really like this, it adds a nice finished touch to the over all look of the blade.
When I used my checkering file on a blade to cut grooves the tops were just flat and butt ugly. I just took em back off.
Is there a special type of file that rounds the tops of the ridges and if so where might I find one and how many lines per inch would you recommend?
Thanks guys!!!

 

[Mike Hull]

Maybe you need more TPI. I use the #1 checkering file, it's about 40TPI, and I don't have that problem.

 

[fitzo]

I used to get flat tops until I realized I wasn't filing in far enough to get em pointed. But then, I'm just a dumbass anyway..... I use a 20 and 30 TPI to cut the grooves. A little buffing rounds em off nice, then I re-sand if I want satin.

 

[sattley]

I cut them until they're almost to a sharp point then buff them with a sissal and course coumpound to round them off a bit. They also look nice on a full tang knife on the front of the guard between the bolsters. Also clamping something for the safe edge of your file to ride on will help keep them crisp.
BTW did you ever try any of that mesquite I sent you. Just wondered how it worked for you.

 

[Kit Carson]

Mike,

What Fitzo said, cept for the dumbass part

File them straight across then raise the handle and file that edge, drop it and file that edge. File till it bottoms out. I also use a Norton Beartex wheel to smooth them out some.

 

[L6steel]

Haaa, never knew you were supposed file em that deep, thanks guys!!!
I'll give it a try!

Sattley, I tried working a piece of it and it split on me.
Don't know if I got it too hot while working it or if I hit an odd grain or what. Seemed more brittle than the other woods we use for handles.