Checking heat treat oven temps

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Oct 28, 2004
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After reading and thoroughly enjoying Ryan W's very detailed hamon process and noticing he mentioned quite often how his Evenheat oven was about 20 degrees off at 1475 F.....I wonder how to check my own for the same variance. If the oven has thermocouple and relatively good readouts, etc....what is even better? Seems like 20 degrees is quite a bit. Thanks.

John Lloyd
 
Stacy told me about melting salt to test. It always melts at 1474°. So I put some on a chunk of steel for about 10 min. If it's melted its at or over 1474. Lower temp 10 degrees and try again. If it didn't melt then you know it's under 1474. Then you can get a good estimate between 5-10 degrees in my experience
 
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Temil-stik and pyrometric-cones are good ways to find the temp accuracy. The cones melt and slump down at a particular temp. A set of three stiks or cones will pretty much zero in the actual temp of an oven.

Say you HT at 1475F most of the time. Get 1465, 1475, 1485 cones. Place one of each indicator ( mark with a stick or a cone) in order about 1" apart on a 3X3" sheet of 1/4" steel and set in the center of the fully pre-heated oven ( oven should have been holding at 1475F for 15 minutes). Shut door and wait ten minutes. Open and observe cones. If the oven is dead on, the first two would have changed color or slumped, and the third would be unaffected. Repeat with new marks/cones and adjust the temp up/down as needed until you get the scenario when the first two have slumped and the third is still erect. That is pretty close to 1475F. Observe the readout temp and you know your error factor. If the PID says the temp is 1465F, you have a +10 degree differential. On some controls it can be adjusted, but on most, you just make a note and know that 1465F is really 1475F...and set the control for 1465. As TCs age, thgey may drift, so checking every so often is a good idea. And when you change a TC, check it.


Also, borrowing another TC and readout from someone and comparing the two readings is good. If you look at many peoples (and lab/industrial setups) you often see two or three readouts. That is redundant measuring to get an average. It is important in industry, but not so needed in knifemaking.






What matters is that the temperature YOUR kiln reads is what you HT for. If it gets a perfect HT at 1465F....use that number. Testing and keeping records is how people come up with posts like, "I austenitize at 1478°F ...I temper at 412°F....etc." They have found that ON THEIR OVEN, that temp is perfect. It may be different on your oven, so try higher and lower and compare your test results.
 
Don't forget to check the low range temperatures as well. Get some oven thermometers and set the kiln to 400F.

I don't trust tempil sticks or cones unless you shield them from the IR radiation of the coils. These days, I reference the Curie Point (1418F). Ramp to 1390F an run a program at 20F per hour. Keep your eye on the read out and a magnet in hand.
 
For the low temperature range, up to 400 degC (750 degF), you'll not go wrong with a TM902C pyrometer off ebay. 5 or 6 bucks delivered from China. It ships with a 3' long flexible, glass-fiber insulated bead sensor that will bend enough to close in the door af a kiln or even a domestic oven and will handle the 400 degC/750 degF mentioned.

With a type K probe suitable for higher temperatures, the pyrometer is good to about 1368 degC (2500 degF).

Only reads in degC, but the conversion is easy.

I've had a dozen or so to date, and put them on the calibrator at work, where they were just as accurate as any of the big name western branded instruments costing 10 or 20 times as much.
 
Tim is quite correct. The modern electronics allow for very low cost and accurate readout units. If the TC and wires connecting it to the readout are right, accuracy is within 1% in most units. More than close enough for HT purposes.

Connecting a RTD TC to a readout can be as accurate as .1%.

That is why I recommended checking with a second TC/readout unit to compare readings.
 
A year ago a friend stops over that works for a pretty good sized electrical outfit. He has
with him a (company owned) FLIR IR camera. My evenheat is bucking 20 years old so I
just put in 1200 degrees and let it start to warm up. After 20 min. or so where it was cycling
back and forth at temp, he aims the camera at the door of my oven and tells me to open it.
Kurt gets a shot about one inch to the left of my thermocouple and its dead nuts 1200
degrees on the camera screen.-----Thats good enough for me
Ken.
 
John get collaborated thermo-couples. Cost 3 times the money. Phil Wilson taught me this years ago. Every time your oven fires it will get weaker.

Addendum
When the oven is up to high temp. Open the door and get it shut. You want the oven to cool slow.
 
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