Been making knives for a while now--been making a few santoku type chefs knives from 1095 blanks. I keep putting the final edge on them and they seemed to have a curve in the middle..I need them to cut with an even , flat bottom on the cutting board, but somehow keep screwing them up--I have a 2x42 belt sander. I am getting VERY frustrated--please help--THANKS!!
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chef knives I make are not flat on the bottom--weird I know but please step in
- Thread starter timfish
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2018
- Messages
- 7,877
Are you sure you Want a flat edge?
I find it easier to cut on a board with some curvature of the knife.
Dead flat gets hung up on things.
Get a flat piece of steel, lay flat sandpaper on it.... rub edge. It will get flat.
I find it easier to cut on a board with some curvature of the knife.
Dead flat gets hung up on things.
Get a flat piece of steel, lay flat sandpaper on it.... rub edge. It will get flat.
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2000
- Messages
- 1,077
T
timfish
I think you mean that your edge is recurved, so it touches the board near your hand, and towards the tip, but not in between. You can do a search here (or on Google images with the word “recurve” to check if this is the right description.
Also do a search for the “two inch mark” with reference to blade grinding. This is when you get an area of deeper scratches a belt’s width in front of your plunge line, where the belt tends to linger longer. If you don’t correct for this, the result can be that the blade is ground thinner in this middle area, if you then sharpen with something that cannot span the thin area, and you take even material off the whole blade when sharpening, you get that concave, recurve shape edge.
There are experts here. I am not. However, the way I have most success keeping straight edges is to tip the blade just a little when I am grinding the plunges, more pressure at the plunge so the other side of the belt is not really cutting while I work the plunge.
A good tip, sharpen roughly, before you finish grinding. It really helps to show how edge thickness is progressing. I also use callipers so I can find relative thin/thick areas along the blade.
While shifting pressure closer to edge or spine to adjust the bevel is useful, it can make finishing and getting even bevels harder if used too much. With kitchen knives, concentrate on getting a really flat bevel and keeping it flat through all grits.
Chris
I think you mean that your edge is recurved, so it touches the board near your hand, and towards the tip, but not in between. You can do a search here (or on Google images with the word “recurve” to check if this is the right description.
Also do a search for the “two inch mark” with reference to blade grinding. This is when you get an area of deeper scratches a belt’s width in front of your plunge line, where the belt tends to linger longer. If you don’t correct for this, the result can be that the blade is ground thinner in this middle area, if you then sharpen with something that cannot span the thin area, and you take even material off the whole blade when sharpening, you get that concave, recurve shape edge.
There are experts here. I am not. However, the way I have most success keeping straight edges is to tip the blade just a little when I am grinding the plunges, more pressure at the plunge so the other side of the belt is not really cutting while I work the plunge.
A good tip, sharpen roughly, before you finish grinding. It really helps to show how edge thickness is progressing. I also use callipers so I can find relative thin/thick areas along the blade.
While shifting pressure closer to edge or spine to adjust the bevel is useful, it can make finishing and getting even bevels harder if used too much. With kitchen knives, concentrate on getting a really flat bevel and keeping it flat through all grits.
Chris