Chef Starting Stock

T

Themilkman

Joined
Dec 1, 2014
Messages
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Hi All,

Placing an order for some knife steel today. Generally, I forge hunters from 1x1/8" 1084. I am thinking about trying 5/32" for ease of forging on the next run. I am also looking at getting into kitchen knives, but am not sure what starting stock to get? I know material reduction guys generally use some thin stock, but for forging I probably can't go under 1/8" thick. Considering the length of an average chef, I am consider 5/32" to reduce warping issues. Maybe 5/32 x 1-1/4?

Thanks
 
Themilkman said:
but am not sure what starting stock to get? ... but for forging I probably can't go under 1/8" thick
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Why not?
Maybe I'm not clear on what you're asking. If you're asking on how thin to forge before grinding, that will depend on your forging abilities and how well you can control your scale formation. I admittedly forge too close to final size and have had to re-forge more than a couple blades due to forging too thin.
If you're asking how thin should a blade be for HT to avoid warping, then I'll say that my chef knives are typically 0.090-0.110 spine thickness at the heel when they go in the quench. So starting with 1/8" stock wouldn't be unreasonable.
Themilkman said:
Considering the length of an average chef
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I look at what's the height of my blade at the heel and much metal do I need to get that, not how long the blade will be.
 
I like my knives to be about 2-2.25" at the heel, so I've been working with 5/32x2" and it works nicely. You do have to thin the spine out some, either by forging or grinding, but I find forging the gradual point I like in a chef knife to be too much of a pain when using 1/8" starting stock.

As far as heat treating, I've always felt the risk of warpage outweighed the extra belt life I got from grinding before heat treat, so I quench as-forged (if I'm not planning to clay the blade).
 
Sorry if I wasn't more clear. I was referring to starting thickness. I can forge a blade down to at least a dime thickness at the edge, and distal taper the spine. I am thinking starting with 5/32, then forging a nice distal taper. That should give a balance between function, ease of forging, and aesthetics.
 
I'm a stainless stock removal guy but 0.1 would be the absolute thickest at the spine for a decent cutter. 0.8 would be better. I always struggle with customers who think a heavy thick knife is a quality knife. Chefs understand.

I think it would also depend on the finish you want. Forge or textured vs ffg but id think if you started with .1 or .11 stock and forged the bevels it would be close.

Keep in mind I've never whacked a glowing piece of steel with a hammer before.
 
You can answer your question better than anyone can. How much thickness will you lose due to scale on each side? Do you plan to grind the sides smooth, or leave some "forging" marks on side of blade? A FFG will get rid of forging marks. Best way to answer your question is to try it. Start with your 5/32" flat stock and forge it like you want, then grind it the way you want and see what you have left. I agree with other folks here, for a kitchen type knife around .100" is about max, and 3/32" is good. The distal taper will make it even thinner toward the tip which is good.

If you're forging be sure to do a good grain refinement procedure at the end.
 
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