"Chert" model drop point hunter. Bog oak, nickel silver. Check it out!

Salem Straub

Salem Straub

Joined
Oct 20, 2008
Messages
5,547
This series of knives features blades forged of 52100 steel with drop points, and dovetailed bolsters for a little dress. They are designed to be solid but not overly heavy in the hand, with fairly thin slicing edges.

HT consists of triple normalization, a single full quench in Parks 50, two temper cycles at two hours apiece, and a thorough soft back draw by torch, edge in water.

The spine is about .210" at ricasso, and the edge is .020" before sharpening.
Length is 8-3/8" overall, with blade length at 4", and maximum blade height at about 1-1/4". Balance is right at the back of the bolsters. Weight without sheath is 6 oz.

This knife features handle scales of 5460 yr. old Ukrainian bog oak, with a full height flat grind, and an extra-tapered tang. Nickel silver bolsters, flared SS thong tube and SS rivets.

Blade is 600 grit hand rubbed, bolsters are mirror, and scales are sanded to 1500 and given a teak oil finish.

This knife is clothed in a RH black sheath, made of 9 oz. veg-tan leather, with my star hex tooling pattern.

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Tapered tang, bog oak scales & sheath, all super clean! Love the star-bit pattern in the leather. Later, Bill.............
 
Salem, the knife is really nice, but the way you laid up that tooling pattern on the sheath is pretty amazing. That took a while, huh?

Paul
 
Thanks guys. Paul, it means a lot to get any kind of leatherwork related compliment from you. I watched your basic pouch sheath video not long ago, which was very good. I'd been making sheaths for years but had some nagging technical questions that you answered. Oh, and now I want stitchers like you have... boy, tooling up never ends with this job! Now, if I can only talk more of my customers into sending my blades to you for clothes. Just one so far is not enough.
 
NICE work! The tapered tang, dovetailed bolsters are nice details, and the tooling on the sheath is very nicely done.

Peter
 
The knife and sheath are beautiful. I use teak oil for all my oiled finishes because it has UV inhibiters in it. What brand do you use and why?
Tim
 
Sweet!
And a compliment from Paul!
Just my opinion, but I'd say you are getting the hang of it.
Well done, Dozier
 
Thanks, Dozier! Tim, I use Watco brand teak oil, because that's what I can get out here in Podunk. It seems to be a good brand though, I like teak oil because it's a more thorough finish than danish oil, but does not have a "tacky" feel in the hand like tung can in my experience. UV resistant is always nice, too.
 
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