chileforge vs. diamondback gas forges feedback

Zuluninja

Zuluninja

Tuquito Leather & Steel Works
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Aug 25, 2009
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Been bit by the knifemaking bug and realize the need for the proper setup - right now it's firebricks and torch, but I know I need a forge.

Have been eyeing the offerings from these 2 companies and would like to hear your feedback. The diamondback is cheaper, and the chileforge has a thermocouple port option, but I would like to hear about ease of use and overall performance on these 2. BTW the models I've been looking at are the economy and single burner knifemaker from diamondback and the tabasco from chileforge.

Thanks for the input!
 
The chili forges are nice but are not cheap. I have considered the Diamondback forge myself.
 
Yea I considered making one out of pipe, kaowool and refractory, but all insulating stuff will have to be bought online, havent had luck finding that stuff locally. I have to visit a local knifemaker and ask him about the one he has, basically a lined open pipe with a regulator and burner and see how much will that set me back. If the difference aint that much I'd rather go with the diamondback.
 
I just put together a setup that is extremely similar to mine, except with a venturi burner to match the diamondback. The damage shipped will be 200. E-mail me to find out from where. That will coat the forge, line it, and give it a firebrick floor. all you need to do is find a piece of pipe that is about 12 inches long and 8 inches wide. the burner comes assembled and is essentially plug and play.
 
I've no experience with the Chile, but I use a Diamondback and it works fine. It does take longer to get up to temp compared to a wool forge. The hard floor holds up ok to flux when doing damascus work, and it does heat to welding temps. It does have a definite hot spot under the burner, which many makers frown upon but I prefer. Blades are not an even thickness so I can use the hot spot on the thicker sections of the blade while keeping the edge/tip cooler. Also the owner at Diamondworks was decent to deal with.

So if you do extended forge sessions or weld damascus its ok. If you will only be forging for 30mins at a time get a wool forge because the Diamondback will just be reaching temp when you are already done.
 
Price wise building your own will come out to about half (or less) of buying. A well insulated forge will come up to temperature muck faster and require less fuel to maintain temp.

Wayne Suhrbier
 
I suggest building your own as well. As for liner materials, I'd point to the author of the preceeding post as a good supplier. I just relined my welding forge with stuff from HTT, good prices on wool over there and you can get your Satanite at the same time. I've built people one burner forges for as little as $100 before, and several times I've thrown one together in an afternoon just using parts I had around my shop. It's not hard.

You need: a tube, 8" minimum but 10" is better, at least 12" long but 16" is good. Well casing is the best (or other sch. 40 steel pipe) but all kinds of things will work. You'll need to cut a hole in for your burner tube, and weld a short piece of 1.5" or 2" pipe onto it for a burner tube receiver. A hole saw in a drill press works well to make the hole. A detail is drilling and tapping set screws into it to hold the burner tube.

Refractories consisting of 1" inswool or kaowool, (same diff) 2400 deg. rating or higher, enough to get a double thickness around the inside of your forge. HTT sells 5 running ft. pieces at a good price that will be more than enough for a small forge.

If you want a brick floor, which can be nice but is not really necessary unless you will be welding with it, you can order a thin one from HTT or even buy a cheap fire brick "split" from your local stove supply. Just lay it in after the wool. Doors can just be stacked firebricks to get you started. I currently use brick doors.

To line the wool, get some satanite- 1 lb. would probably be enough, but I like to get 5lb just to have it on hand and for hamon blades as well. Just thickly coat your wool liner with it.

Other than that you'll need fuel supply parts. A propane tank, at least 5 gallon, an adjustable regulator with gauge (about $30, could be less or a bit more) a fuel line, a ball valve for shutoff, and the burner itself which has a few small parts but is all stuff you can get in the plumbing section of your hardware store. Or, you can buy a "sidearm burner kit" from Larry Zoeller, which I recommend. I've done that before, his burners work great.

Just typed the above to give you an idea of the scope. As you can see a drill press and welder help but if you have a friend with those things you can do the rest yourself.
 
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guys, thanks for the tips! all good stuff. Guess I will hunt for supplies when the next paycheck arrives.
 
one more question - the side hole for the pipe to place the burner, the welded pipe needs to be at an angle, right? for the flame to "roll" inside?
 
It does help to weld the outlet on at an angle, just account for the thickness of your liner- it does not take too drastic of an angle to create some swirl.
 
thanks guys, I'm sure gonna get busy and make my own!
 
I have used the Diamondback for about 2 years and it has done everything I have wanted it to do. It is the 2 burner model and I have forge welded mild steel and carbon steel making tomahawks with it. It is easy to take apart and replace the lining.
 
good to know. Still looking at it, but pretty sure I'm gonna try and build one first.
 
madness522 said:
I have used the Diamondback for about 2 years and it has done everything I have wanted it to do. It is the 2 burner model and I have forge welded mild steel and carbon steel making tomahawks with it. It is easy to take apart and replace the lining.
Click to expand...

Hello,

Which 2 burners model did you have, the knifemaker 2 burners or the blacksmith 2 burners? Can you speak to your experience using it to heat treat? Thanks.
 
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