- Joined
- Apr 17, 2001
- Messages
- 491
Hi guys and gals,
I bought a Chinook a few days ago and thought I'd share a few of my initial thoughts with you all.
First off, this is a big knife. It's been described as looking bigger than it is; that's because it IS big!
It's not, however, too big for pocket carry. It is fairly wide though, when closed, and will take up a lot of room in your pocket. Many have stated that it is too heavy for EDC. I haven't noticed this (if it pulls your pants down buy a belt
). To me, the weight is reasuring.
The handle is very comfortable in both saber and reverse grips and its shape provides a secure hold; no slipping here. The texture of the G-10 is perfect- very gripy without causing discomfort after extended use. There is no flex in the handle slabs. The knife rides pretty low and is very secure in the pocket.
The lockback is great even if it lacks some "gee-whiz factor". It is a well executed design, which is super strong and ambidextrious. I believe you can trust this lock as much as any folder design out there (we're still waiting on Busse and the Strider is still a liner-lock). There is the most minute amount of play in this design but as Sal has said, this is necessary, and you have to be pretty anal to let this bother you. There is almost zero lateral play in the blade even if you press down hard just on the tip. Credit the thick scales and narrow washer.
On to the blade WOW
. There's a lot to talk about here. The upswept point is what first catches everyone's attention. I haven't used it enough yet to fully form my opinions but I wouldn't want this shape to be my only choice for all my cutting needs. It is a bit more narrowly focused than most blades. It is very thick and has a narrow main bevel grind. This leaves a fairly thick edge, which should be strong as hell, but you won't reach for it to slice cheese 
No appoliges needed here, this is a hard core cutting grind, not a kitchen knife. The tip is very thick and the edge grind at the tip almost becomes a wedge grind. You won't pick out splinters with the Chinook but neither will you bust the tip off if you try to pry with it. ( "PRY WITH IT??
You don't PRY with your knife, you heathen!!" Hey, if you carry a tool box with you EVERYWHERE then leave your knife at home and do your cutting with your razor knife 
)
Many have suggested that the top swedge could or should be sharpened to fascillite back-cuts. I don't follow this line of thought. I don't think folders should be carried for the main intent of self-defense. In a life threatening situation the adreniline-dump you experience is going to make manipulating a folder nearly impossible. It will snag in your pocket or you will drop it or you will be shot or stabbed before it's open. If you get the Chinook into action, however, I'm sure it will fair well (and hopefully so will you). Also, due to the thickness of the spine, getting an edge on backside is going to require some serious grinding.
All in all, I really like the sharpened pry-bar approach of the Chinook, since I usually carry a second knife with me. I tote along something smaller that won't scare the sheeple (yes, the Chinook will start a sheeple stampede ) This gives me small blade utility for simple or delicate tasks and the big boy for cutting down telephone poles or fighting off a herd of wild boar.
The oversize hole (14.5 mm) works as good as I expected and is a definate improvement. This should be the standard opening device on all large knives!
I haven't had the Chinook long enough to give an opinion on the CPM 440V, but a few swipes on my 203 tells me that this is some HARD steel. Sharpening it will probably be a challenge, but if the edge holding ability is superior than it's a worthwhile trade.
Overall fit and finish is excellent. If I were to nit-pick it would be that the swedge grind is not exactly symetrical. It's cut about 1/2 mm deeper on one side. This will probably slow the blade down at least a half a nano-second if it's stabbed into a charging rhinoGreat Job Syderco! The Chinook is one of your best efforts to date and that's saying something! Also, thanks to JAK for this great design!
To Sal regarding the Chinook's upcoming redesign:
1. You've mentioned that the compression lock may be added to Chinook. I love the "high-zoot" factor there but doubt whether it will actually be stronger. You always mention the Gunting and Chinook together when lock strength is discussed so maybe this change is unnecessary. The lock-back has positive pressure to hold the blade closed and is ambidextrious.
2. I'd like to see a larger pivot bolt used. Something thicker with bigger heads. Also use bronze-phosphor washers (I'm assuming it now uses nylon washers) to further eliminate blade deflection. This is where the Strider has the biggest advantage over the Chinook. Turn the Chinook into the toughest folder going, period!
3. Use slightly thicker SS liners and thin down the G-10. Once again, for strength.
4. Since you are experimenting with different steel for the Chinook, how about BG-42?
5. Extend the thumb serations another 1/4" down the spine. I'd like a longer contact patch for my thumb.
6. Give the Chinook it's own clip that allows 4-way positioning. We need options
Just my 2 cents worth of input but I hope you like it.
Once again Sal, great knife and great company. Thanks.
I bought a Chinook a few days ago and thought I'd share a few of my initial thoughts with you all.
First off, this is a big knife. It's been described as looking bigger than it is; that's because it IS big!
It's not, however, too big for pocket carry. It is fairly wide though, when closed, and will take up a lot of room in your pocket. Many have stated that it is too heavy for EDC. I haven't noticed this (if it pulls your pants down buy a belt
). To me, the weight is reasuring.The handle is very comfortable in both saber and reverse grips and its shape provides a secure hold; no slipping here. The texture of the G-10 is perfect- very gripy without causing discomfort after extended use. There is no flex in the handle slabs. The knife rides pretty low and is very secure in the pocket.
The lockback is great even if it lacks some "gee-whiz factor". It is a well executed design, which is super strong and ambidextrious. I believe you can trust this lock as much as any folder design out there (we're still waiting on Busse and the Strider is still a liner-lock). There is the most minute amount of play in this design but as Sal has said, this is necessary, and you have to be pretty anal to let this bother you. There is almost zero lateral play in the blade even if you press down hard just on the tip. Credit the thick scales and narrow washer.
On to the blade WOW
. There's a lot to talk about here. The upswept point is what first catches everyone's attention. I haven't used it enough yet to fully form my opinions but I wouldn't want this shape to be my only choice for all my cutting needs. It is a bit more narrowly focused than most blades. It is very thick and has a narrow main bevel grind. This leaves a fairly thick edge, which should be strong as hell, but you won't reach for it to slice cheese No appoliges needed here, this is a hard core cutting grind, not a kitchen knife. The tip is very thick and the edge grind at the tip almost becomes a wedge grind. You won't pick out splinters with the Chinook but neither will you bust the tip off if you try to pry with it. ( "PRY WITH IT??
You don't PRY with your knife, you heathen!!" Hey, if you carry a tool box with you EVERYWHERE then leave your knife at home and do your cutting with your razor knife )Many have suggested that the top swedge could or should be sharpened to fascillite back-cuts. I don't follow this line of thought. I don't think folders should be carried for the main intent of self-defense. In a life threatening situation the adreniline-dump you experience is going to make manipulating a folder nearly impossible. It will snag in your pocket or you will drop it or you will be shot or stabbed before it's open. If you get the Chinook into action, however, I'm sure it will fair well (and hopefully so will you). Also, due to the thickness of the spine, getting an edge on backside is going to require some serious grinding.
All in all, I really like the sharpened pry-bar approach of the Chinook, since I usually carry a second knife with me. I tote along something smaller that won't scare the sheeple (yes, the Chinook will start a sheeple stampede
) This gives me small blade utility for simple or delicate tasks and the big boy for cutting down telephone poles or fighting off a herd of wild boar.The oversize hole (14.5 mm) works as good as I expected and is a definate improvement. This should be the standard opening device on all large knives!
I haven't had the Chinook long enough to give an opinion on the CPM 440V, but a few swipes on my 203 tells me that this is some HARD steel. Sharpening it will probably be a challenge, but if the edge holding ability is superior than it's a worthwhile trade.
Overall fit and finish is excellent. If I were to nit-pick it would be that the swedge grind is not exactly symetrical. It's cut about 1/2 mm deeper on one side. This will probably slow the blade down at least a half a nano-second if it's stabbed into a charging rhino
Great Job Syderco! The Chinook is one of your best efforts to date and that's saying something! Also, thanks to JAK for this great design!To Sal regarding the Chinook's upcoming redesign:
1. You've mentioned that the compression lock may be added to Chinook. I love the "high-zoot" factor there but doubt whether it will actually be stronger. You always mention the Gunting and Chinook together when lock strength is discussed so maybe this change is unnecessary. The lock-back has positive pressure to hold the blade closed and is ambidextrious.
2. I'd like to see a larger pivot bolt used. Something thicker with bigger heads. Also use bronze-phosphor washers (I'm assuming it now uses nylon washers) to further eliminate blade deflection. This is where the Strider has the biggest advantage over the Chinook. Turn the Chinook into the toughest folder going, period!
3. Use slightly thicker SS liners and thin down the G-10. Once again, for strength.
4. Since you are experimenting with different steel for the Chinook, how about BG-42?
5. Extend the thumb serations another 1/4" down the spine. I'd like a longer contact patch for my thumb.
6. Give the Chinook it's own clip that allows 4-way positioning. We need options
Just my 2 cents worth of input but I hope you like it.
Once again Sal, great knife and great company. Thanks.
