Chinook ... Talk To Me Fast!

Mark W Douglas

Mark W Douglas

Joined
Nov 16, 1998
Messages
1,345
Talk to Me!

Read many reviews ..... looks good!

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[This message has been edited by Mark W Douglas (edited 05-09-2001).]
 
Overall its a great knife. But, there are a couple of things to think about. It is a heavy knife, so you know its clipped inside your pocket. The notches on top of the blade are cut pretty sharp and feel uncomfortable when you put your hand in your pocket (my Military is the same way). My Chinook is very tight and I can't snap it open like the liner lock Spydies. The lock back is also tight and is a little difficult to close one handed. On the plus side this is one super strong and usefull knife. you can do a lot of regular cutting chores, game prep/dressing/skinning besides the MBC stuff. And for the money its a great value. Buy one.
 
A couple questions about the Chinook, if I may.

First, can I presume that the lock was rated as safe for heavy use by the Spyderco testing standards?

Second, has anyone done much thrust training with it? How accurate is the point? Something about the sort of upward line of the blade makes me wonder about it's pointing accuracy.

Thanks,


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Asi es la vida

Bugs
 
Extremly tough knife. Weighs around 7.oz(I think) Built like a tank. If ya need a "end of the world" folder, this is it!
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Knowing what James Keating is about, the thrusting ability of this knife should be correct. ***I do not have one, so don't hold me to that!!***


Blades
 
The Chinook lock was tested against MBC standards which are higher(tougher) than heavy utility ratings. I think it rates 800 inch/pounds of strength.
As far as the point goes, I guess it depends on how you do your thrusts in your system. In my system, our thrusts are more arcing as per natural human body mechanics than trying to make a mechanically perfect linear path. I know that it's generally easier to thrust with an item that is straighter tip to butt, but it probably won't seem odd if you train regularly with it(or a similar blade style). Keep in mind off-centerline point designs(sabers, tanto/katana, scimitars) have been used successfully for centuries by trained people.
 
I love mine. I still can't get over how solid it feels compared to the rest of my tactical folders. I love big strong overbuilt lockbacks, and this one is the be all/end all of that genre for sure. I'll probably be getting a second one sooner or later from a more recent production run with the black clip, but my current numbered model is being carried and used daily. The tightness of the action is actually a plus up here in Canada, since the police have been known to arrest and charge people for carrying "flick knives
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" if they are able to snap the blade open too easily...

PM


[This message has been edited by mr44 (edited 05-11-2001).]
 
Hey, Ken, AFAIK, scimitars and sabers were both developed for use by cavalry, and are designed primarily for use in slashing. Weapons designed with thrusting in mind are typically straight (epee, rapier, bowie). I also believe the primary use of the katana is slashing as well, though I know less about Japanese than Western swordmanship. While all these weapons are capable of being used in stabbing, I don't think they are oriented in that direction, or as good at it as a straight blade, with stabbing ability inversevly proportional to curvature. Not a flame, just my humble opinion.
 
Yeah, I would've guessed sabers and scimitars were optimized for the slash, just what I could think of off the top of my head. I train in filipino longblade(stick) methods, but my knowledgebase for swords is lacking.

I do know through training that with arcing thrusts, one can make straight (knife)blade shapes or swept-shapes work with just about the same performance, given the point sweep is not too radical.

As far as classical swords go, I'm obviously still learning. Thanks.

Ken
 
No problem Ken. I don't know a ton about swordsmanship or knife fighting, but I do know a little about historical uses of weapons. I think with shorter blades curvature isn't really a problem with stabbing (think Hobbit Warrior), but with longer ones become it becomes more awkward because you have to adjust tip placement more (and the tips generally aren't designed for stabbing the way they are on "pokey blades". Spyderco content: Look at the curved blade on the Civilian. I'm sure you could work out the angle of insertion that would result in a devastating stab, but it would be tricky. Compare that to the Gunting, which has a point directly in line with the handle, a fairly straight edge, and an almost double-edged grind. Thrusts with the Gunting penetrate extremely well and are easily targeted (compared to other knives of comparable size I have tested).
 
Well, you know, the point on the Chinook isn't really that high. There might be a little optical illusion going on there because of the curved handle and concave clipped blade, but the point is actually well below the blade's spine. In fact, if you hold the knife so that the top of the handle is parallel to the ground, it looks like the point is pretty close to being on the center line of the blade.

I didn't encounter any problems doing straight thrusts with the Chinook into dense material. If its penetrating ability isn't satisfactory though, you could consider sharpening a portion of the swedge. I put a false edge about 5/8ths of an inch long on mine and it certainly penetrates a lot better after that small modification.

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Cerulean

"The hairy-armed person who figured out how to put an edge on a suitable rock made it possible for us to be recognizably human in the first place." - J.K.M.
 
Mark I thought you were "cured"!!??!!
BTW, Do you still own that gorgeous Apogee that you used to display as part of your signature line?

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"Never let your morals get in the way of doing what's right" -Hari Seldon, Foundation, -Aasimov
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally Posted By Pergatory: Mark I thought you were "cured"!!??!!
BTW, Do you still own that gorgeous Apogee that you used to display as part of your signature line?</font>
Click to expand...

Cured? Yeap, I am! But, I did need to sell my whole knife collection including my XL Apogee's. I really didn't see much of a choice. That's what cured me too, once all my knives were gone. I guess I killed two birds with one stone by selling off all my knives!

I do need a knife though!
Just ordered and got the Gunting, by mistake! I thought I was ordering the Chinook, but somehow I ordered using the wrong number. The Gunting is so unique, I'm keeping it. But, I am still thinking on purchasing the Chinook. I have to have a everyday multi-purpose knife.

Now, one or even two knives to your name doesn't make you a knife addict, does it?
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Mark
 
Bugs3X, the Chinook was designed by James Keating, who is a leading proponent of the Bowie knife in knife fighting. And one of the techniques that he emphasizes in using the Bowie, especially one like a Bagwell Hells Belle, is the "back cut," which is a sort of wrist flick bringing the blade back after you have finished a forward slash with the regular edge. The back cut uses the false edge or swedge and the point and, according to Keating, can inflict terrible damage if done right. I have read that the point and swedge on the Chinook were designed with the back cut in mind, and, if you look at the blade, it is clearly descended from the Bowie, so I would believe it. I suspect that you would have to sharpen the swedge to maximize the effectiveness of this, but I may be mistaken in that. But do remember that the fighting style for Bowies was essentially a slashing style, not a thrusting style, so I would further suggest that this is the style for which the Chinook is maximized as a fighting knife.

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Walk in the Light,
Hugh Fuller
 
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