Chipped Blade ZT 301

Joined
Feb 8, 2007
Messages
76
I have a ZT 301, and after skinning a Phesant, the blade chipped 3/16" of an inch in from the tip and only a fraction of a inch deep. I have not reprofiled or sharpened the blade, the only thing that I have done with it is strop it.

The chips, there are two, are very small, and since I have not upgraded my membership I am unable to upload a photo.

My sharpening foo is weak, and I have the lansky kit with diamond attachments, but I have never sharpened S30V before.

Any advice?
 
If your foo is weak, so shall your edge be, grasshopper. Call the ones at Kershaw and let they be the ones to fix it.
 
CC U said:
My sharpening foo is weak, and I have the lansky kit with diamond attachments, but I have never sharpened S30V before.

Any advice?
Practice, practice, practice -- but on a Mora, not a ZT !!! :D

Pictures? Sure ... You will find instructions on posting pictures here: READ THIS FIRST! How to ask questions that get answered.

Also, how to use a scanner - www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=505982
Idiot-proof Guide On How To Post Pictures - www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=371650
Photobucket - http://photobucket.com
Tinypic - www.tinypic.com
 
Thanks for the advice. I just purchased the sharp maker, and yes I will practice on a busse in bad need of a edge first. I just do not trust the wide swath that the lansky has to make the recurve sharp.

And no, I do not want to send it in, because a tool that I can not use, and re-use is worthless. If the time comes that I have to count on it, then I am up a creek.
 
Seriously, you"ll find the Sharpmaker more friendly toward the recurves...take your time. That's hard steel, and the medium rods will take a long time to work out the chip, but it will work. Remember to have some Comet handy and clean the sticks frequently, they will load up quickly.
 
Thanks for the comet tip, I tried baking soda and it takes some time to clean up.

The busse can shave again, in under 45 minutes. I don't know why I did not get one earlier.

I think I need to find a cheap recurve to practice on. I saw a Kershaw at walmart that has a recurve for $39, that will be my practice piece.
 
I do not want to send it in, because a tool that I can not use, and re-use is worthless.
Agree with you 100%.

Chipping like you describe isn't uncommon with factory edges, many times knives need a full sharpening or two before you'll realize their full edge-holding potential. I don't in any way consider this a flaw or problem, BTW, not only because it's not reasonable to expect otherwise in a production environment, but because, like you, I feel a knife is made to be used, and if used, it's going to need sharpening anyway.
 
Dang, I've read many reports about S30V chipping...That looks like one steel to stay away from.:eek:.
 
Dang, I've read many reports about S30V chipping...That looks like one steel to stay away from.:eek:.

Dann, S30V is actually quite a nice steel that takes and holds a 'working' edge very well, IMO. I have a half dozen or so knives with S30V and have only had one edge with a 1/16" long shallow chip in it. The consensus of opinion in most forums, is that the process of forming the factory edge on belts/grinders, leads to the chipping problem. It seems that when the edge is re-sharpened by hand, the problem disappears.
 
The consensus of opinion in most forums, is that the process of forming the factory edge on belts/grinders, leads to the chipping problem. It seems that when the edge is re-sharpened by hand, the problem disappears.

That may very well be what is going on. We have very few problems with
S30V. The sharpening process that we use at Kershaw is most likely completely unique compared to other companies within the industry.
 
My S30v Leek has gone to hell and back, no chipping. Given, I have sharpened it some now and I like the edge properties better.
 
I had the same problem with my 302 when it was new. I resharpened at 20 degrees, and the problem stopped.
 
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