Was using my knife on some hard wood and the edge seemed to have developed some little chips, damn you Australian wood...I reprofiled the best I could on a oilstone but I can't for the life of me get it sharp again, I have a sharpmaker and a cheap oil stone, this is my favourate knife and I need help sharpening it, I miss that razor edge it came with
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Chipped my bk9
- Thread starter el_emery
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2011
- Messages
- 2,090
Yes! in before the paper wheel advertisers :thumbup:
BK9 is a very good knife with very good steel. If sharpened correctly, it will be scary sharp. If I had to guess, I'd say you haven't spent nearly enough time with the coarsest stone (which should be the diamond rods if you're doing major repair work with a SharpMaker... and I'll wager the 30 degrees set by the SharpMaker is waaay shallower than the factory grind on that knife (confirmed: approximately 40 degrees from the factor, per Ka-Bar FAQ here, which means a lot of reprofiling). If you are using your oilstone in conjunction with the SharpMaker system, you should do all your repair work and reprofiling with the oil stone and then finish with the SharpMaker at 40 degrees for a microbevel only after you've got a clean, apexed edge.
Read all the stickies on this subforum and keep grinding away until you've got a burr-free, apexed edge with your oil stone.
BK9 is a very good knife with very good steel. If sharpened correctly, it will be scary sharp. If I had to guess, I'd say you haven't spent nearly enough time with the coarsest stone (which should be the diamond rods if you're doing major repair work with a SharpMaker... and I'll wager the 30 degrees set by the SharpMaker is waaay shallower than the factory grind on that knife (confirmed: approximately 40 degrees from the factor, per Ka-Bar FAQ here, which means a lot of reprofiling). If you are using your oilstone in conjunction with the SharpMaker system, you should do all your repair work and reprofiling with the oil stone and then finish with the SharpMaker at 40 degrees for a microbevel only after you've got a clean, apexed edge.
Read all the stickies on this subforum and keep grinding away until you've got a burr-free, apexed edge with your oil stone.
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 11,186
Kabar does a good heat treatment to their 1095cv which will make it a bit harder to sharpen than you may expect. As advised, keep going with a coarse stone until the edge is reformed and starts to show sharpness. Some waterstones if budget allows or some wet/dry sandpaper will produce a much better edge in a quicker amount of time. The SM on that size blade would be difficult.