Chipped my bushcraft

C

candlelight001

Joined
Jun 3, 2008
Messages
764
Just got my 0-1 Bushcraft from Dan, took it out back, was batoning through some seasoned pine, put a small chip in the edge, right in the middle of the blade! Damn!

Trying to get it out with a coarse DMT stone, but it's taking forever... Any other ideas on how to repair other than patience and time? I don't have a sander or grinder, just coarse stones and sandpaper. Using the stone b/c I'm afraid sandpaper will unflatten (for lack of a better word) the bevel.
 
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I like that. Could cut fishing line and stuff w/ it. :) In all seriousness, I suppose eventually the edge will catch up with the chip?
 
candlelight001 said:
Just got my 0-1 Bushcraft from Dan, took it out back, was batoning through some seasoned pine, put a small chip in the edge, right in the middle of the blade! Damn!

Trying to get it out with a coarse DMT stone, but it's taking forever... Any other ideas on how to repair other than patience and time? I don't have a sander or grinder, just coarse stones and sandpaper. Using the stone b/c I'm afraid sandpaper will unflatten (for lack of a better word) the bevel.
Click to expand...

If your sand paper is coarser than your stone use it wrapped around your stone(or a small block of hardwood,wooden ruler,wood chisel blade or anything flat) which will help keep it from getting "unflattened". I staple the sand paper around the wood sometimes if it's a big job. Don't staple on working edge(edges).If you only staple on the one side of your block of wood you will have three working edged to use up before you need a new sandpaper. Wet/dry sand paper is the best and will last longer and work better-use plenty of water with it.
 
candlelight001 said:
Just got my 0-1 Bushcraft from Dan, took it out back, was batoning through some seasoned pine, put a small chip in the edge, right in the middle of the blade! Damn!

Trying to get it out with a coarse DMT stone, but it's taking forever... Any other ideas on how to repair other than patience and time? I don't have a sander or grinder, just coarse stones and sandpaper. Using the stone b/c I'm afraid sandpaper will unflatten (for lack of a better word) the bevel.
Click to expand...

You pretty much just have to gradually sharpen it out.

Almost all scandi grinds will chip esp if you strop them out pretty fine. Definately keep that in mind.

I have lots of scandi grind blades and but the only one that has never chipped is Dan's 3V.

I personally would not baton thick wood with a scandi grind. I've done it but really if you just find some 2" stuff and split it with the knife you can usually get a fire going. You don't need real thick stuff.
 
Great suggestions, guys.

:thumbup:


Best bet is putting in a good movie and hitting it on the coarse stone. You'll be done long before the movie is over. :D

Dan
 
Daniel Koster said:
Great suggestions, guys.

:thumbup:


Best bet is putting in a good movie and hitting it on the coarse stone. You'll be done long before the movie is over. :D

Dan
Click to expand...

Thats the ticket.

Scandi grinds are easy to sharpen by feel alone.

One thing I've been experimenting with on one of my mora's is putting a second bevel on one side of the edge like a chisel, being right handed I put the bevel on the right side of the edge (the side that faces away from what I'm whittling). The inclusive angle of the edge is a little greater, but the working angle--the angle you have to hold the knife in relation to what youre cutting doesnt increase. It sharpens up faster (especially dents/chips) and keeps the excellent control of a scandi edge.
 
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