Chipped out bone scales, save-able?

jonnymac44

jonnymac44

Joined
Sep 27, 2007
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Well, my glue up from last night with the jigged bone scales and G-10 liners worked out great!:thumbup: I started getting them ready tonight after work for installation on the knife. I tried to go slow and smooth, but I had a bad chip out when drilling the larger 3/8" hole for the thong tube:( I sanded it down some and think that a little epoxy during final glue up might be able to help me blend it in. Is this scale save-able? Bone slabs from Culpepper arn't cheap and I'd hate to scrap it.

I haven't worked much with bone, so any ideas from those who have is quite welcome.

Chip out pre sanding:
DSCN3448.jpg


After a little bit of 150 grit to smooth it out a bit:
DSCN3451.jpg
 
Maybe try a countersink/vari bit and make it a dished out area with the thong tube flared?
Not speaking from experience, just my thoughts from an aesthetic viewpoint. Is flaring out the thong tube possible with bone without splitting it?
 
Aww Man that sucks. I am interested in any advice as well, I have some stag that chipped out similar to yours...

fluidsteel said:
Maybe try a countersink/vari bit and make it a dished out area with the thong tube flared?
Not speaking from experience, just my thoughts from an aesthetic viewpoint. Is flaring out the thong tube possible with bone without splitting it?
Click to expand...

just from my experience using a Vari Bit you will most likely do more chipping...
 
Just redye it. polish the scale, then build the surface up with super glue. Lightly sand it level, and repolish.
 
Next time use a newer sharp drill bit, faster speed, slower feed and hard backing under the work for support. Bummer.
 
Bruce Bump said:
Next time use a newer sharp drill bit, faster speed, slower feed and hard backing under the work for support. Bummer.
Click to expand...

Hey Bruce, the bit was brand new, the speed was fast, the hard backing was in place............guess my feed was a bit too quick:o

When I drilled out the other scale, I slowed my feed down a bit and when I got the point when there was only about 1/16" left to drill through I switched to a 1/8" bit and drilled a pilot then went back to the 3/8" bit. It worked MUCH better:thumbup:
 
you can also try putting a couple of layers of masking tape on back side where it comes through. it helps along with the backing to keep it from breaking out.
 
argel55 said:
you can also try putting a couple of layers of masking tape on back side where it comes through. it helps along with the backing to keep it from breaking out.
Click to expand...


I'll definitely try that too. Can't hurt:thumbup: I think this one will survive with a bit of work. I finished rough shaping the slabs and did my glue up just a bit ago. Tomorrow night I might be doing final handle shaping and then we'll get some pics up. It's a new model and I'm hoping it turns out good.......
 
You do need a pilot first. Have you studied the drill bit on the flutes? the big ones dont center cut very well thus requiring allot of force feeding. Drilling a proper hole is an art form.
 
Work securely held so there is ZERO MOVEMENT, hard backing, sharp bits, high drill speed, slow feed, pilot drill, air blow off/back out bit for chip removal and cooling,mouth held just so ;-) I did a stint in the plastics fab shop at work and some of the materials were prone to chipping and these were the steps I learned. Additionally, we used straight flute bits for some materials - but I have never tried them on bone.
 
While it can be done, the irregular surface of the jigged bone creates too much potential for tear out even with tape or backer board. I use one of two methods:
Drill a small diameter hole through to the outside then use a pilot bit to come on back.
Lately I have been using GRS Thermo-Loc. Microwave, push scale down into the warm and malleable mix. Wait until it hardens then drill away. Reusable stuff.
 
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