chipped the edge (Idiot alert)

Joined
Jan 22, 2011
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287
While camping this weekend I accidentally chipped the edge of my most cherished knife, Winkler Woodsman. I was making a feather stick and the blade slipped, ran down the stick and struck a rock. The edge is clearly chipped on an otherwise impeccable edge/grind. I know my raggedy sharpening will never get it back to it's factory perfection. Now what?
 
While camping this weekend I accidentally chipped the edge of my most cherished knife, Winkler Woodsman. I was making a feather stick and the blade slipped, ran down the stick and struck a rock. The edge is clearly chipped on an otherwise impeccable edge/grind. I know my raggedy sharpening will never get it back to it's factory perfection. Now what?
Post a photo?
 
I guess it is a little hard to see here in these photos.

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That doesn't look bad; it should come out pretty easily without power tools. I would fix it as I would hate to have a catch in the edge.
 
You have a nice knife and you used it. That little chip is just a by product of hard, honest use.
Antdog had it, just use it and sharpen it, come a day it will be gone.
So many on our forum would buy a winkler and bundle it up in their knife drawer, good for you!
 
I guess I'll put it on the KME and see if I can straighten it out a bit. Feel like a complete dumbo for letting that happen.
 
been working on this chip for an hr or so on the KME. The belly then tip of the blade is NOT the same angle as the rest of the blade or perhaps that is a function of the KME not keeping the same angle as the blade begins to curve away. Chip is a little better but there is still some material that is chipped out of the edge.
 
been working on this chip for an hr or so on the KME. The belly then tip of the blade is NOT the same angle as the rest of the blade or perhaps that is a function of the KME not keeping the same angle as the blade begins to curve away. Chip is a little better but there is still some material that is chipped out of the edge.
Mount the blade in the KME close to the area of damage so you don't have to extend the arm much.
For angle-guide sharpeners that clamp the blade (unlike the EdgePro Apex), the flat hone will ride up the edge-shoulders as you sharpen further away from the axis (clamp) point, producing a wider bevel at lower angle (unless you are very careful to let the hone twist down onto the edge, something your hand will resist allowing). It is also possible that the metal is thicker behind the edge closer to the tip, but I doubt that.
 
I only own one knife that is not a user. That is my grandfathers m3 He was issued in the marines in WII. Most of my knives have some battle damage unless they are brand new. I could be wrong but I think a couple of minutes with a real course stone and hand sharpening will take that chip right out.
 
Mount the blade in the KME close to the area of damage so you don't have to extend the arm much.
For angle-guide sharpeners that clamp the blade (unlike the EdgePro Apex), the flat hone will ride up the edge-shoulders as you sharpen further away from the axis (clamp) point, producing a wider bevel at lower angle (unless you are very careful to let the hone twist down onto the edge, something your hand will resist allowing). It is also possible that the metal is thicker behind the edge closer to the tip, but I doubt that.
This is pure gold. Early on I screwed up a few 100$ knives by blindly honing away with a lansky guided system.
It wasnt until one of our members, for whom english is his third language, clued me into the geometry of sharpening,
Whether it be a lansky, edge pro, or free hand that I started getting good edges, actually improving factory edges...
That was years back, now there are no knives in my collection that I dont sharpen confidently, and they are all users with a couple of exceptions.

Bottom line, some great info here, and I am glad you are putting that winkler to good use.
 
I would normally just keep sharpening over it. Like. AntDog AntDog said. If it is deep and catches things I take a round diamond file and sharpen it like a single seration. Then keep sharpening over it until it’s gone.
 
Was it 80CRv2? I would not over think it. If it really bugs you send it back to winkler and they can re-sharpen it. Personally, I'd sharpen it myself
 
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