Chipping Blade Spyderco Manix 2XL

[Black Oak Bladeworks]

The knife is a Spyderco Manix 2XL in S30V steel. I use my knife a lot at work, Mostly for opening boxes or caulk tubes but I also use it for cutting wood. It chipped very quickly after I began using it, I was cutting card board or wood at the time it chipped. I have resharpened it (wet stone and strop) and tried to put a little steeper bevel on it, but its chipped out again. There are a ton of smaller chips in the same area as well. The chips range in size from about 1/32 of inch deep and 3/32 long to barely visible. It effects about a 3/4 inch section of the blade, The rest of the blade cuts great and has no issues. I never had major issues with chipping on other pocket knives I have owned when used normally. Maybe I am to picky? Or should I send it in and get it looked at? Or different method of resharpening?

Also this is still a great knife despite the chipping, I have only used Kershaw and Gerber up to this point for pocket knives. This one far surpasses any pocket knife I have used in the quality of workmanship, materials used, and the thought that went into the design. I see why people spend money on expensive knifes now. Thanks for any advice.

 

[BladeScout]

The Manix is a nice knife but maybe buy a Gayle Bradley and put that to work instead.

 

[StoneAndSteel]

I suppose it COULD be a heat treat issue, but I think Spyderco is pretty much THE production blade master in S30V. As such I think reaching out to Spyderco’s CS and seeing what they can do for you is likely you best bet. My suspicion is that it’s the steel itself. S30V is a bit of a chippy steel; I’ve had a Benchmade that did the same thing when I was cutting cardboard. For hard use knives (which is what it sounds like you need) I would look more at high carbon blades. But I’m admittedly biased toward high carbon and probably wouldn’t own anything else if I didn’t live in the South.

 

[willc]

Most likely the factory edge is a bit burnt.
I would give it one or two sharpenings and see how well it holds up then.

If you still are getting chipping after that you may want to have Spyderco look at it or you may be forced to buy a Gayle Bradley 2.

 

[Black Oak Bladeworks]

I suppose it COULD be a heat treat issue, but I think Spyderco is pretty much THE production blade master in S30V. As such I think reaching out to Spyderco’s CS and seeing what they can do for you is likely you best bet. My suspicion is that it’s the steel itself. S30V is a bit of a chippy steel; I’ve had a Benchmade that did the same thing when I was cutting cardboard. For hard use knives (which is what it sounds like you need) I would look more at high carbon blades. But I’m admittedly biased toward high carbon and probably wouldn’t own anything else if I didn’t live in the South.

I think I will give spyderco a call. Ya, its hard to beat high carbon steel, Outside of vg10 I have not had much luck with stainless yet. Thanks for the help!

 

[Black Oak Bladeworks]

Most likely the factory edge is a bit burnt.
I would give it one or two sharpenings and see how well it holds up then.

If you still are getting chipping after that you may want to have Spyderco look at it or you may be forced to buy a Gayle Bradley 2.

I will have to check the knife out. Thanks for the help!

 

[McFeeli]

S30V is a steel that would chip before it rolls. It’s not a steel I’d consider tough by any stretch. It should withstand what you said you’ve put it through, but if you put a little too much leverage one way or another while cutting through a piece of wood it could cause the chipping. Same if you nicked a staple going through some cardboard. As someone else stated the factory edge is a bit weaker in the first place, so maybe after a few resharpenings it’ll get to the good steel.

I’ve had a few tiny chips on my S30V PM2, so I understand the frustration. Plus it surely isn’t fun reprofiling S30V by hand.

 

[lieferung]

I want to say don't let this stain your view of Spyderco. They are some great cutters, absolute quality. Love my M4 Manix 2 it's just a beast at work.

 

[StoneAndSteel]

I want to say don't let this stain your view of Spyderco.

I’ll second that. I hope that what I said before won’t be interpreted as a slam against the company or their designs. Both of my EDC folders are Spyderco’s (I LOVE their compression lock).

 

[Black Oak Bladeworks]

I want to say don't let this stain your view of Spyderco. They are some great cutters, absolute quality. Love my M4 Manix 2 it's just a beast at work.

Not at all! The knife is still very well built. The frame is solid, the lock up is perfect, the blade centers in the handle, the grind was even. I can tell its quality. I use my knifes more than most people, The pile of flattened boxes I opened over the last week is almost 6 feet tall... And that is just opened boxes, I have used it for other stuff as well.

 

[Black Oak Bladeworks]

I’ll second that. I hope that what I said before won’t be interpreted as a slam against the company or their designs. Both of my EDC folders are Spyderco’s (I LOVE their compression lock).

I didn't take it that way at all. Even if you did slam it, I am not that easily offended.

S30V is a steel that would chip before it rolls. It’s not a steel I’d consider tough by any stretch. It should withstand what you said you’ve put it through, but if you put a little too much leverage one way or another while cutting through a piece of wood it could cause the chipping. Same if you nicked a staple going through some cardboard. As someone else stated the factory edge is a bit weaker in the first place, so maybe after a few resharpenings it’ll get to the good steel.

I’ve had a few tiny chips on my S30V PM2, so I understand the frustration. Plus it surely isn’t fun reprofiling S30V by hand.

Thanks for the input! I cut some pretty hard woods from time to time, so I am sure that doesn't help. It sure isn't fun to re profile, I think I am going to need a bigger diamond stone...