Chipping Blade Spyderco Manix 2XL

I suppose it COULD be a heat treat issue, but I think Spyderco is pretty much THE production blade master in S30V. As such I think reaching out to Spyderco’s CS and seeing what they can do for you is likely you best bet. My suspicion is that it’s the steel itself. S30V is a bit of a chippy steel; I’ve had a Benchmade that did the same thing when I was cutting cardboard. For hard use knives (which is what it sounds like you need) I would look more at high carbon blades. But I’m admittedly biased toward high carbon and probably wouldn’t own anything else if I didn’t live in the South.
 
Most likely the factory edge is a bit burnt.
I would give it one or two sharpenings and see how well it holds up then.

If you still are getting chipping after that you may want to have Spyderco look at it or you may be forced to buy a Gayle Bradley 2.
 
StoneAndSteel said:
I suppose it COULD be a heat treat issue, but I think Spyderco is pretty much THE production blade master in S30V. As such I think reaching out to Spyderco’s CS and seeing what they can do for you is likely you best bet. My suspicion is that it’s the steel itself. S30V is a bit of a chippy steel; I’ve had a Benchmade that did the same thing when I was cutting cardboard. For hard use knives (which is what it sounds like you need) I would look more at high carbon blades. But I’m admittedly biased toward high carbon and probably wouldn’t own anything else if I didn’t live in the South.
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willc said:
Most likely the factory edge is a bit burnt.
I would give it one or two sharpenings and see how well it holds up then.

If you still are getting chipping after that you may want to have Spyderco look at it or you may be forced to buy a Gayle Bradley 2.
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S30V is a steel that would chip before it rolls. It’s not a steel I’d consider tough by any stretch. It should withstand what you said you’ve put it through, but if you put a little too much leverage one way or another while cutting through a piece of wood it could cause the chipping. Same if you nicked a staple going through some cardboard. As someone else stated the factory edge is a bit weaker in the first place, so maybe after a few resharpenings it’ll get to the good steel.

I’ve had a few tiny chips on my S30V PM2, so I understand the frustration. Plus it surely isn’t fun reprofiling S30V by hand.
 
I want to say don't let this stain your view of Spyderco. They are some great cutters, absolute quality. Love my M4 Manix 2 it's just a beast at work.
 
StoneAndSteel said:
I’ll second that. I hope that what I said before won’t be interpreted as a slam against the company or their designs. Both of my EDC folders are Spyderco’s (I LOVE their compression lock).
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McFeeli said:
S30V is a steel that would chip before it rolls. It’s not a steel I’d consider tough by any stretch. It should withstand what you said you’ve put it through, but if you put a little too much leverage one way or another while cutting through a piece of wood it could cause the chipping. Same if you nicked a staple going through some cardboard. As someone else stated the factory edge is a bit weaker in the first place, so maybe after a few resharpenings it’ll get to the good steel.

I’ve had a few tiny chips on my S30V PM2, so I understand the frustration. Plus it surely isn’t fun reprofiling S30V by hand.
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