Chipping on my WWII

S

Shann

Joined
Sep 2, 2004
Messages
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I have been putting the WWII to rough use, breaking apart old framing made with 2X4, nails and screws. I've got some pretty bad chips along the blade presumably from contact with the metal, not the wood (I've never had that problem with it before) and its now so dull that I can't kid myself any more.

I know there's a million sharpening threads. I've just not had any success with the convex mousepad method on a khurkri (I've done a Sarge knife with limited success and a Kumar Karda with great success that way). Either the size or the curve has got me confused. I need to try something different. I don't have a belt sander.

Ideas?

Do you clamp it into a vise and use a file?

Thanks guys.
 
I always used this page for inspiration/ideas:

http://www.himalayan-imports.com/faq/Sharp.htm

But really, I used a Gerber diamond rod on my WWII. Now I'll be scorned, lol. It worked well, and mine came very dull. Never 'super' sharp, but never failed to cut whatever it needed to. Just maintained that edge with the chakma after each cutting session. Two strokes on one side, three on the other, and another one on the first.

Good luck, Take care.
 
I don't try to get a convex edge, even though I know that it is best for chopping. My compromise is a double bevel that is at an included angle suitable for chopping - 30 -35 degees or so.
I use oilstones - a fine India stone. I also use a fine India gouge slip cone for the inside (concave) curve near the cho.
I follow this with finer stones to finish the broad chopping area.
I may try a medium ceramic in place of the India the next time I need to do some quick sharpening.

There is no law about how to sharpen. There are alternative methods that work. The advantage of a convex edge is that it is stronger and should hold up better for chopping. It won't work quite as well for slicing.
More acute included angles slice better but don't chop as well.
 
I chopped a chainsaw loose one and the edge looked serrated:eek:

Start with a file then diamond, then use the mouse pad with like 100 grit and work your way back up.
 
Send it to one of the bums here with a grinder...
 
Get a sandpaper pad with foam rubber backing. Lock yourself in a room. If you drink beer, drink two. Forget about the outside world. Take the pad and draw it across the edge. Feel it. Play loud Rocknroll music if you must. Get out of your preconceived ideas.

Time for you and that edge. I don't promise you'll get it as sharp as the maniacs here do, but you'll get it sharp enough for work.

you can feel and you can do this thing. I can. You can. If you are like me, there will come a time when you are counterproductive- erasing all your progress. Stop before that. Go back another time and see what you got.

You might try the hand held DMT diamond hones. They work good and give you a instinct for the work.


munk
 
Munk is a fountain of philosophic and spiritual insight. Thanks bro.
It takes a while to get the hang of hand sharpening a convex edge. A 1" belt grinder is a good investment. See the relevant threads... It to, obviously has its own learning curve. It ain't bean bag. :D
 
If you want to practice a convex edge on something that won't make you cry if you mess up, try a kagas katne (sp?). They're inexpensive and good to learn on. A little more practice and I think I'll be ready to try to sharpen my new YCS karda.
 
I nicked up my big WWII in the very kind of thing you were cutting, old wood laden with old nails and screws. But I didn't get anything over 1mm-2mm. I used the corners of a cheap course stone and then went to a med. Spyderco pocket hone (one of the old flat ones) and finished with the fine stones from a Sharpmaker (used like a croc stick). I still have a couple of little nicks, probably less than 1mm, but overall the thing is plenty sharp for work. I figure they'll eventually sharpen out and it chops just fine with 'em. Let us know what ends up working for you.

Frank
 
An old trick around here is to use a dark colored marking pen on the sides of the edge, so that you can see where each stroke on the sharpening device is removing metal. It's very helpful to allow you to start to visualize what you're doing where you can't see what's going on.
I just ordered a diamond coated oval rod that I'm interested in trying out. It seems a natural for the concave shape of the khukri blade.
 
I would also be most interested in the outcome of a sharpening rod on the Khukri design.

Thanks in advance for the subject matter.

Stuart
 
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