Chis Reeves Knives

B

backpacker

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Oct 2, 2000
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Who likes Chis Reeves Knives. I like the hollow handle 4" blade models. I would perfer a flat ground blade. What do you think of these knives for the outdoors?
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by backpacker:
I would perfer a flat ground blade. What do you think of these knives for the outdoors?</font>
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How important grind is to you, you have to decide. But I agree, flat ground is generally better.
I'd like to point out something obvious: The handles are metal. This means they're not much good in cold weather.<img src="http://www.canit.se/%7Egriffon/knives/.1x1knives.gif" alt="" height=0 width=0>


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Urban Fredriksson www.canit.se/%7Egriffon/
 
Reeves are well built and classic designs, but I have to agree, in the cold they're not worth too much to me. I learned my lesson last hunting season. I bought a small sebenza, great little knife, until I grabbed it with a bare hand at 15 degrees F.

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It's not the pace of life that concerns me, It's the sudden stop at the end.
 
I like 'em, but don't have any of the folders. The fixed blades work better in the winter if you use Tennis grip wrap on the handle.
Dan
 
I really like the Chris Reeve Knives line. I have a Mark VI, Mountaineer II, and a Project II. They have never failed me and the quality of these hollow-handle knives are second to none. Most hollow-handle knives can't stand up to the abuse a survival or camp knife demands but my Project II has. Also, the customer service is excellent if you want to get your blade recoated with Kal-guard. If you want a kydex sheath, check out the ones offered by Pro Edge Knives. I have one for my Mountaineer and use it around the water all the time inverted on my P.F.D on long guided trips. Really secure and drain water like crazy. Good luck with you choice and I'll bet you can't just buy one.
Keep the hairy side up
kevin
 
More than once I've said how much I like my Project. I'm saving up for a smaller one too.

I've never had a problem with the cold even when worn on the outside on my webbing order. I've dug the odd snow hole with mine when skiing. Carry it under your coat if at all worried and don't leave it out during a task. If its cold enough for metal to stick/burn you then you need to be wearing gloves anyway. All metal/blades are a hazzard at such low temperatures. How often do you find yourself in such extremes?

Its fixable anyway, as you would with any knife you would use.

Keep the CR at the top of you list. I can't think of a technical or practical reason to move it from the top other than personal taste.
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Dan K:
The fixed blades work better in the winter if you use Tennis grip wrap on the handle.
Dan</font>
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This is a very good idea. Tennis grip wrap is fairly durable, come to think of it. It's made to tolerate an ever changing and tight grip, sweaty hands, lots of twisting, etc. And it's grippy, no suprise there. Great idea.

I've always liked an oval shaped grip rather than round (Reeve), but round is a practical concession for Reeve's machining technique (stays on lathe) and to keep price down.

Also, while A2 takes a wicked edge and is a very good (if not excellent) edge holder, for outdoors work, especially survival, you have to keep the edge clean or it can corrode, especially if you get any blood or sweat on the edge (salt). Moderate, not major issue... rest of knife is Kalguard, so it's an edge issue.

Chris treats his A2 to Rc55-57 so it can be easily resharpened in the field, and so the whole knife stays tough for chopping/bending/prying/digging. Stuff that is easy to resharpen is, almost by definition, easy to un-sharpen, i.e. Rockwell hardness and edge holding are very much joined at the hip. Rc 52 is bare minimum for even very mild edge holding. Rc 58 is good max for choppers, Rc62 for slicers.

For what it's worth...


[This message has been edited by rdangerer (edited 03-01-2001).]
 
Well, if you REALLY want flat ground blades, here are some to consider. They come with a composite grip, so that cold weather use is not a problem. Reportedly, on a joint US-Russian trip to the Arctic, only one knife was functional at the end. A knife similar to the one at the top of the picture, a Mad Dog ATAK2. Others are a K2K, Mako (old style), and a pygmy ATAK:

<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=306668&a=2279510&p=33384541&Sequence=0&res=high" TARGET=_blank>
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</A>

Hope this helps.
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Walt
 
I am outdoors alot [
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] and have used CRK One Piece range extensively.

They are great. The round handle is a non-issue as is the cold weather question. Firtsly, if it is so cold that the handle may be uncomfortable ... I'm uaually wearing gloves. Secondly, tennis tape and a wide variety of other media can fashion the handle to tastes. Chris Reeves knives, especially the One Piece Range are the cat's ass afield. I do not own stock in the company or have relatives on the payroll or anything of the sort ... but I know what works. Though the Shadow IV is with me more than the P1, I would take the P1 if I were limited to but one knife outdoors. Truth be told, the Sable IV is with me more than the others, though I never planned it that way.

Don't get me wrong, I have recently been bitten by the Busse bug and have long been a Buck fan, oh, and BTW, my Fallkniven A1 is one of my favorites, but time and again I reach for the Chris Reeve One Piece Range section of my knife drawer when I got to go.

Happy Hunting!

[This message has been edited by Nimrod (edited 03-02-2001).]
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by GREENJACKET:
More than once I've said how much I like my Project. I'm saving up for a smaller one too..</font>
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I have "the smaller one" the Shadow IV. This is the next step down from the project. I love it!! Of course I love all my Reeves knives! :-)

Jon
 
My project I was the first really high end field knife I bought and while I haven't handled every knife out there every time I do I find myself comparing it to the Reeve, and I still have it so that must mean something (probably that I don't go to enough large knife shows) But when I hit the door and I know I'm going to be out where I might need it I grab for the Project I. Though there have been a couple of times I'd have liked the smaller version but no knife is best for everything. I didn't buy mine for the hollow handle I bought it because it was a proven design from a maker I liked and the knife fit me. I did however put a fire starter and tinder in it up here in ND if you end up somewhere in winter and it's -40F you might be thirsty but the first thing on your mind is going to be fire
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One I've seen that I do particularly like is the Hood Noordoh with the parasite *but man spendy* made by Mr. Simonich (who does wonderful work) who made a cetan kit for me that I really like and if I ever get around to having it and 2 other knives that I designed and had ground out for me coated I might use them more.

The other thing I like about Reeve and some of the other makers like Mad dog is that they'd rather you beat their knives to a pulp (if you can) and send it back to be retouched and recoated than let it sit and collect dust on a shelf.

As for the cold, if it's so cold that you can't hold a peice of metal and you don't have gloves, or something to cover the handle with, the cold handle is probably the least of your worries
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But as others have said you could wrap it with paracord or put a bad or tennis grip on it. Either item could have further survival use.

Todd
 
In pictures the CRK one-piece range don't seem to have much belly; or at least the edge of the blade is more or less in line with where your knuckles would be while gripping the handle. I must say I rather like the idea of the blade hitting its target before my knuckles hit anything! Is this ever a problem for anyone with the CRKs? If so, have you found a way to overcome it?
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by kmclye:
In pictures the CRK one-piece range don't seem to have much belly; or at least the edge of the blade is more or less in line with where your knuckles would be while gripping the handle. I must say I rather like the idea of the blade hitting its target before my knuckles hit anything! Is this ever a problem for anyone with the CRKs? If so, have you found a way to overcome it?</font>
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Great observation kmclye. I'm concerned with the same issue, but if you're talking about chopping something, more often than not only the first 1/3 - 1/2 of the blade is hitting the target thus doing the chopping - this is with a longer bladed Project I or Busse BM.

With a short but wide blade Ubejane, I was able to cut off some 3 - 5" diameter branches (which hurt my hand immediately) without smashing my fingers, but my palm kept slowly twisting that butt cap off everytime I struck the branch.

But I guess it boils down to what kinds of "targets" you are "hitting."

Jerome

 
I haven't had a problem with that. I liken it to hitting your knuckles on a dinner plate or counter when using a steak knife. Most people naturally hold the knife at a downward angle. Though I suppose if you were trying to prepare food like slicing carrots with a strait down chop it could be a issue.

Though I do also pack a smaller 4" blade with more belly along with my project I it is a little better for everyday cutting, food prep, skinning etc. But when it comes right down to it I'd rather have a knife that will take all the abuse in the world and not be the best for smaller utility work than a blade that gets destroyed trying to do the big work. Course the best of both is to carry a couple knives, or more
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Todd
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by backpacker:
Who likes Chis Reeves Knives. I like the hollow handle 4" blade models. I would perfer a flat ground blade. What do you think of these knives for the outdoors? </font>
Click to expand...

IMHO The CRK one piece range knives are ideal for backpacking. I've spent 12 years backpacking in the Blue ridge, and the Black mountains and have recently started backpacking in the Everglades and Big Cypress national parks. I would suggest on of the 5.5" OPR. They arent the lightest, nut they are the most versatile i'vr seen yet.



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He Who dies with the most toys still dies.
 
During some trading, I picked up a CR Tanto1 with the 9" blade. It is impressive in the hand and I have not done much with it as yet but I do know that I would also like to have one of the CR smaller versions, say in the 4" to 5" range to go along with the big blade. I would like to see CR offer a "piggy-back" combo of say a Project or Tanto1 with a 4" or 5" model piggy backed with one double sheath.
I just built a "frog" type holder to piggy-back my Fallkniven A1 & F1 into a single carry sheath....its a nice combo.
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Ron,
Bremerton, Washington
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JBP, I think I'm going for the Shaddow III, two steps down. Really to replace a large folder.

I've just handled the Busse range at the IWA show in Germany. They may be tough and well made but they are heavy metal. I'm happy to stay on the CR side of the fence.

From the show I heard that Gransfors Bruks, great axe makers from Sweden, are about to bring out a belt axe. It looks a cracker. Traditional, small, neat and the business like. Just thought you all would be interested.

Funny, I seem to reach for my Project first too; that and my SAK Huntsman.

The only trouble I have wih my knuckles is stopping them dragging along the ground
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Just want to make a point about hollow grinds. Not all hollow grinds are created equal. The bigger the wheel, the closer the grind approaches a flat grind. I can't remember for sure but I think Chris uses a 10" wheel. Does anyone know for sure. It was discussed in an issue of a fairly recent knife mag, i.e., within the last 3 months.

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Hoodoo

I get some pleasure from finding a relentlessly peaceful use for a combative looking knife.
JKM
 
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